Which CUT50P.... aka which UK based eBay seller? Or suck it up and buy Stahlwerk...

  1. Memmeddu

    Memmeddu Member

    Messages:
    838
    Location:
    Italia Sardegna
    I would like to hack a plasma cutter ,but before I need to get one ...
    Trafimet s45, I've seen that machines that use them can not cut more than 12mm so I think that isn't the right torch to increase the cutting capabilities
    Cut 50's that says that can cut 18 20 mm clean cut ,uses P80 torches
    Unfortunately I have not found yet an hypertherm torch clone , Chineses do make the compatible consumables but they don't make the torch
    That should be the better option to hack a plasma cutter ,also because consumables are easy available ...
    Anyway I think that most of the cutting capabilities are thanks of pilot arc ,not HF or HV but pure pilot arc a lead with a power resistor from the ground to the torch
    Because if is always on when you loose the cut it will restart before you can even feel that
     
  2. skotl

    skotl Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    6,294
    Location:
    Edinburgh, UK
    Yep - I put a trafimet clone on mine and it made a massive difference to controllability. Not sure I could comment on whether it increased the depth of cut but mine has always been able to do 12mm or more.
     
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  3. Hood

    Hood Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    8,725
    Location:
    Carnoustie, Scotland
    My TecArc Opticut 65 uses a Trafimet Ergocut S65 hand torch or AutoCut S65P machine torch. Both are the blowback style ignition so not sure if they could be used with the Cut 50 style plasmas or not.
     
  4. skotl

    skotl Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    6,294
    Location:
    Edinburgh, UK
    Ahh - to be fair, mine just looks like a trafiment - I don't think it does anything fancy re ignition.

    This is it:
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222055413434

    upload_2019-8-23_8-17-55.png
     
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  5. Hood

    Hood Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    8,725
    Location:
    Carnoustie, Scotland

    Doesn't look anything like the Trafimet on mine so possibly an older style Trafimet copy.

    Mine looks like this.
    https://www.amazon.com/Trafimet-PA2202-Ergocut-Central-Adaptor/dp/B01HVZ27FM

    If you push on the electrode on mine it will move into the torch, that is how the ignition works. It has a dead short and then when the air starts it pushes the electrode up and breaks contact and starts the pilot arc.
     
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  6. Memmeddu

    Memmeddu Member

    Messages:
    838
    Location:
    Italia Sardegna
    You have to exclude HF circuit and take a positive lead to the torch for the pilot arc
    But you need a resistor to do that
     
  7. Rig Pig

    Rig Pig Member

    Messages:
    3,492
    Location:
    Narrwich! U.K.
    I'm no expert but as I understand they built whatever you want to whatever spec you want if you are a major buyer. Just look at the different mini lathes that roll out of the same factory with different paint, control gear and name badges.
    I can't see the change over of components from one board run to the next is going to cost much, labour is cheap and they are only going to order batches of components sufficient to complete the current run.

    This is an example pinched from the web
    4x-LM3886-ICs-Bridged-Parallel-BPA200-Chipamp-Gainclone-PCB-_1.jpg
     
  8. skotl

    skotl Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    6,294
    Location:
    Edinburgh, UK
    But they’re components. I haven’t come across a board fabricator that will let you specify or supply the components that you fit.
    Plus I can only see that making the process more expensive, not cheaper, as the fabricator has to retool the assembly line.

    I don’t doubt btw that there is a difference in quality across boards, my doubts are around “reboxer” claims that they specify higher quality components on generic boards.

    Anyways- I’ll bow out for now as I’m sure folk are bored of me repeating myself :D
     
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  9. Tangledfeet

    Tangledfeet Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    880
    Location:
    St Andrews, Fife, Scotland
    Some new (and very cheap) consumables arrived a few days ago and today some proper PCL XF/Euro fittings so I could resolve the air leak from the back of the solenoid valve in the Stahlwerk; cased it back and had a play - much, much happier.

    Sailed through 3mm at 25A and then 5mm mild steel at 40A:

    steel.jpg

    Are all consumables created equal... these seem to have, well, almost melted - worth paying more? These were cheap from a UK based supplier.

    tip1.jpg tip2.jpg
     
  10. gaz1

    gaz1 Member

    Messages:
    8,019
    Location:
    westyorkshire
    your getting spit back at your gun check your air is high enough to blow through the metal

    65/70 psi for a cut50 plasma cutter
     
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  11. Tangledfeet

    Tangledfeet Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    880
    Location:
    St Andrews, Fife, Scotland
    Cheers, @gaz1 - I'll check tomorrow but I'm pretty sure it was set at 5bar.

    I was using a length of 10mm thick flat bar, resting it against the shoulder between the ceramic and the cutting tip as it gave me 1mm or so of clearance between the metal I was cutting and the tip - previously I'd been dragging the torch.
     
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  12. gaz1

    gaz1 Member

    Messages:
    8,019
    Location:
    westyorkshire
    isnt yours a drag tip like the cut50s its best to drag the tip like that but yours appears to be spit back rounded at the tip as well as blow to the side

    watch your tips though gets bad check before next cut change the tip to a new one or you will damage the electrode inside of the gun as ive done it
     
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  13. skotl

    skotl Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    6,294
    Location:
    Edinburgh, UK
    I've never had tips look like that, no matter how much I abuse them :dontknow:

    Definitely worth buying a set off another supplier and see whether they're any better
     
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  14. Tangledfeet

    Tangledfeet Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    880
    Location:
    St Andrews, Fife, Scotland
    @gaz1 I honestly don't know whether it's a drag tip or not; I wouldn't know how to identify! I changed both electrode and tip this evening beforehand.

    @skotl Yes, thought I'd do that! It's a learning curve...
     
  15. Hood

    Hood Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    8,725
    Location:
    Carnoustie, Scotland
    A drag tip with have a cross slot end to it. On the trafimet it is quite pronounced but I think on these Chinese ones it just looks like saw drafts in a cross.
     
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  16. Hood

    Hood Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    8,725
    Location:
    Carnoustie, Scotland
    The trafimet drag tips are like this.
    ScreenHunter_2928 Aug. 27 21.03.jpg

    I think the Chinese style look like this.

    ScreenHunter_2929 Aug. 27 21.04.jpg

    In other words the Chinese ones are just nozzle and electrode whilst the trafimet have the nozzle and electrode but a shroud over the top as well.
     
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  17. Tangledfeet

    Tangledfeet Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    880
    Location:
    St Andrews, Fife, Scotland
    Thanks @Hood

    Yes,t tips that came with it (and the replacements I bought, seemingly identical in appearance) have the slotted end - but nowhere near as precise and obvious.

    So does this mean that Trafimet consumables might fit non-Trafimet torches then I wonder...
     
  18. Hood

    Hood Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    8,725
    Location:
    Carnoustie, Scotland
    Nah, the trafimet ones shown above will only firt the S65 Trafimet torch although possibly the Chinese have a knockoff of it by now, yours however is not one.
     
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  19. Memmeddu

    Memmeddu Member

    Messages:
    838
    Location:
    Italia Sardegna
    You can't compare them to the ones on to the stahlwerk
    because the tarfimet torch use a shielding cap
    The AG60 torch use not shielding cap
     
  20. Memmeddu

    Memmeddu Member

    Messages:
    838
    Location:
    Italia Sardegna
    No this kind of torch normally uses a spacer guide for drag cutting as for trafimet s45
     
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