Maybe, if you loosen up the gearbox screws in the front, and take out the two conical pins, the whole gearbox can be swinged to the side enough to drop the screw.I can probably do all of those. I'm sure that a stud will go past the gearbox or indeed screw in from below, just that at the time it was a forehead slapping moment![]()
Maybe, if you loosen up the gearbox screws in the front, and take out the two conical pins, the whole gearbox can be swinged to the side enough to drop the screw.![]()
The Y axis feedrod is around 500mm long, it will not be a problem, if the gearbox is tilted with around the needed 10-15 mm. Z nut is installed separatedly. The movement is driven with gearset, what can be separated slightly i think.Can't do that without removing the feeds rod, which requires the feed gearbox removed, which requires the selector removed, ad the feed screw too, plus the z screw housing.
Got the motor in this evening. It's a heavy lump at 32KG. I fitted it onto the swivel plate and tried to get the whole thing in but there just wasn't the clearance to slide it in so I had to mount the plate first, slide the motor in on a bit of timber then fiddle about getting the four M16 bolts in. Here it is with the belts and tensioner fitted. There's no writing to read on those belts though.
View attachment 419895
There's a third belt that runs down to the feeds gearbox from the large pulley which does have the size printed on it but it was too long for the tensioner pulley to remain inside the (not yet made) cover so I cut it with a mini-grinder and wrapped it round the pulleys to overlap the ends and marked it, then measured the length with a tape measure. Interestingly, even though it was cut with a 1mm disc, the measured original length was 10mm shorter than the length printed on it.
Anyway, by using this useless belt as a gauge I've got the lengths to replace the two short belts in the pic and the longer one for the feeds gearbox. The orignals were all A-section but I've ordered AX belts which are the same size but will cause less parasitic loss because they bend more readily.
what size belts you need pete i can check stockGot the motor in this evening. It's a heavy lump at 32KG. I fitted it onto the swivel plate and tried to get the whole thing in but there just wasn't the clearance to slide it in so I had to mount the plate first, slide the motor in on a bit of timber then fiddle about getting the four M16 bolts in. Here it is with the belts and tensioner fitted. There's no writing to read on those belts though.
View attachment 419895
There's a third belt that runs down to the feeds gearbox from the large pulley which does have the size printed on it but it was too long for the tensioner pulley to remain inside the (not yet made) cover so I cut it with a mini-grinder and wrapped it round the pulleys to overlap the ends and marked it, then measured the length with a tape measure. Interestingly, even though it was cut with a 1mm disc, the measured original length was 10mm shorter than the length printed on it.
Anyway, by using this useless belt as a gauge I've got the lengths to replace the two short belts in the pic and the longer one for the feeds gearbox. The orignals were all A-section but I've ordered AX belts which are the same size but will cause less parasitic loss because they bend more readily.
Two ax50 and one ax81 but I've already got them coming mate cheerswhat size belts you need pete i can check stock
I didn't. The motor has been reconfigured from a 415v dahlander 2 speed connection to a 240v straight delta. I'm not sure that it won't go up in smoke the first time I use it.You forgot to paint the motor and brackets!![]()
No, but I've been thinking I could cut the head off this one, thread it into the hole and use a nut.
Could you just mill one face off the bolt?
The idler's original shape is just a radius.Few small jobs this evening, The feeds gearbox belt tensioner idle pulley was very worn and had rotten bearings. I have no idea what the original shape was so I just machined a flat groove in it with angled sides to run on the flat back of the belt. Then I fitted two new bearings and fitted it to the tensioner arm. I don't have the new belt yet so I cut and spliced the over-length one that was fitted just to see how it all went together. Seemed to all work out alright.
View attachment 419967
I filled the spindle gearbox with oil to half way up the sight glass I made. Haven't found any leaks yet but I'm holding judgement until I get the thing spinning.
View attachment 419966
I found some 4-core SY cable to use for the motor power lead. Ran the earth wire out to the screw provided.
View attachment 419965
Then I dug out the Lenze 2.2kw VFD I bought for powering to motor. I've wired the motor to it and a temporary power lead whilst I figure out what control system I'm going to use. I'll leave it on the bench for now with enough lead to reach into the casing to the motor. All being well I will get the motor under power tomorrow and see how it all runs. Long way to go yet but this will be a nice milestone.
View attachment 419964
Ah, well in that case it wasn't worn out just had rotten bearings.The idler's original shape is just a radius.
I'll have somethingWell, I got the motor fired up in the machine but it's very clear that the Lenze vfd does not like it. I had re-connected the 2-speed windings to act as a single speed 4 pole delta would motor but it had not been a success as it pulls a lot of current (I half expected it to go bang right away) to the extent that it causes the vfd to go into over-current after a few minutes.
I can't really diagnose it any further since the vfd does not display any monitoring data except for output frequency.
So I have put an advert in the sale section looking for a modern 2.2kw replacement.
That is a shame.Well, I got the motor fired up in the machine but it's very clear that the Lenze vfd does not like it. I had re-connected the 2-speed windings to act as a single speed 4 pole delta would motor but it had not been a success as it pulls a lot of current (I half expected it to go bang right away) to the extent that it causes the vfd to go into over-current after a few minutes.
I can't really diagnose it any further since the vfd does not display any monitoring data except for output frequency.
So I have put an advert in the sale section looking for a modern 2.2kw replacement.