That's not HB Body epoxy then, possibly their acrylic primer. The epoxy is better.
Well, afaik it had epoxy written on it.i think I still have a can knocking about, I'll double check n post back.
There are 1k epoxy primers, I doubt they are as good as the 2k stuff. As you don't even need air-fed respiration for proper 2k epoxy primer I can't see the point in using the 1k stuff?
Old Yellar - where did you buy the Valspar ud429, please? Just had a quick Google and can't see it for sale anywhere. I have read a few mentions on here of other direct gloss paints, like Glasurit 68, Max Meyer, and Lechler, but not seen any online suppliers so I can read up on them a bit. It might be something I would be interested in with my project car eventually.
You can get it from most paint shops, my local one can get it in, although they say its crap I ordered mine from Jawel Paints, non iso 2k..
Anyway had a go at the non iso gloss today, but of a disaster tbh, some how forgot to use a tack rag before spraying so yep dust n crud over panel showed up like a sore thumb. Although Im not using this to go on the car, it would have been handy to have it dust free to start with! I put the UD429 in boiling hot water for an hour before using it, I dont think it made any difference tbh, I used as little 2k thinner as I could but it sprayed crap, mixed another load up to what valspar recommend and it sprayed really nice. First tim using the Devilbiss GTi Pro Lite as well, really nice gun but I had the pressure set a little to high due to the previous mix being thicker, kinda forgot to lower it..
Put the plastic up first thing this morning:
This was the thicker coat, about 20% thinner (including dust!!), didnt flow well and looked pretty poor:
Final couple of coats was 50% thinner, I think if I had used this mix from the start then it probably would have looked fairly decent:
I had the garage around 26c, turned fan heaters off while spraying, safety first, also heated the panel up as Langy recommended, no runs this time!
See how it dries, good chance to practice colour sanding now too!
That actually looks really good, especially the third picture. Surprised how good the shine/gloss is, even before sanding. Will be following your progress with interest.
Thanks, the gloss is really good, just a shame about the dust..
Looks good lad, im a bit miffed bout the heat not helping though as 50% thinners is alot, some would say to much.i think if ye work out the gun adjustments you will see a much better finish straight of the gun aswell, especially the gtipro.i was only using a shitty draper gun and eventually got great results.
Yeah I need a lot more practice with the gun, will have another play next week. I might get a paint viscosity cup and try the UD429 through it at room temp and again after boiler water to see if it makes any difference of how long it takes to flow through.
Glad you got a result in the end.
If i'm going to be doing any painting, I keep the paint in the airing cupboard for a few days to get it nice and warm.
Years ago, my dad owned lorries, which he hand painted, he would get a primas stove and heat up a big metal pot with hot water and keep the tin of paint in that whilst painting outside.
I would imagine your dad was using synyhetic paint.it was a fairly comon practice to hot pot it so ye could reduce the thinners and get it to flow better as synthetic paint doesnt like to be wet sanded, its pretty much spray and go.takes ages to dry aswell.
Evening all, I been using the Lechler epoxy primer this week, awesome stuff! anyway decided inbetween coats of primer on parts today i'd mix some non iso colour coat up and try different techniques on a test piece of scrap metal I had primed earlier in the week, and got really poor results mainly mentioned in post #45 on this thread:
I got lots of bitty paint myself, so this got me thinking why? i didnt get this on my first try with the stuff, but then I remembered what old yellar had said about heating it up, which I had done on my first attempt. At the time I didnt think it made much difference to the amount thinners I needed, but Im thinking the thicker the hardener the harder it is to mix with the colour resulting in, err bitty paint.. Today I didnt heat it up so guess this was the problem, I did put it through a filter first, which also took an age to go through!
So tonight I decided to do a test with just the UD429 hardener. I have a DIN4 Viscosity cup, will see how long 100ml takes to drain through at garage storage temp (today around 7c) and also sat in boiling water for 1hr 20min ( the reason for 20 minutes instead of a round 30, topgear was due to start! )
So I brought the tin into the house and left it on the dining room table for around an hour before testing:
Room ish temperature:
100ml 10min 55sec
After being in hot water:
100ml 2min 16sec
So as old yellar said, heating this stuff up will help with the reduction of thinner, today I did notice I needed more thinner. The first time I used non iso colour coat, I heated the colour up in hot water as well, only reason being it was so cold in my garage where Id been storing it.
I'll run some more tests this weekend if I get chance. Hope this proves useful to someone looking to try non iso hardener.
Well I guess all the pro's have tuned out at this stage,but that's not what this product is for.its for the home painter to use instead of using stuff that can be dangerous.the info your giving on it is very useful burrows.I have been wanting to get back to experimenting with this stuff for a while but just never get the time.I know good results can be had with it and I reckon it can be improved upon.I think the info that jawel and the likes are giving out about the unibinder is wrong and needs to be rewritten.ye can't get decent results using there method IMO.looking forward to more tests lad.
Quick update on the test piece I painted with the non iso gloss last Sunday. Ive been pressing my nail into the paint daily and its been leaving a impression fairly easily, until today. Pressed really hard and no impression. Its been in the garage since sunday, so to be fair its not been in warm conditions, average day time temperature here at the moment is around 11c night time dropping to around 3c. Probably in decent warm ambient temperatures, I would imagine it will harden quicker.. The mix for this test was 100:50:50, hardener wasn't heated prior to using.
In summary, the test piece has taken 4 days to harden in cool early March weather.
I've been watching this as I'm getting close to having to make a decision about what paint to use on my project. I'd heard elsewhere that non-ISO hardeners can leave a "chalky" finish - did you find that? The photos don't look that way, and to be honest I can't be sure whether the comment meant chalky in apperance or dusty in finish. As I'm also doing a dark colour I wondered if you had any issues like that?
I've not had a chalky finish yet, I'm not painting in the most ideal condition either, just practising at the moment. I was going to paint the wing today, but the weathers pants today, will give it a go tomorrow..
Thanks for the update Gaz, have you tried sanding or polishing it yet?
Not yet, when I sprayed the test panel the first time I didn't put enough hardener in, basically cocked the mix right up . So I sanded that back to bare metal to get rid of the non ISO primer as well and try the Lechler 2k epoxy primer.
Sprayed the epoxy primer and the panel is ready for topcoat again, but not had chance to try today, and probably won't till next week now .
I have ordered some G3 and G10 plus a dodo juice polisher, to try on the panel after its cured.. Will post up results of that as well..
Ive been having a play around with the NI 2k again over the last few weeks in the engine bay and interior. Had a few problems in the engine bay of runs due applying to thickly, once the huge lump of the engines back in etc, they wont be visable. When I finished spraying the interior today, I left it for a few hours then decided to start peeling back the masked off areas in the engine bay, I stuck masking tape over the holes in the fire wall to stop overspray, to my horror when I peeled these back this mess was left:
The paint is around 4 weeks old, should this happen or is it a flaw with the non iso paint staying soft for so long?
Again, once assembled it wont be visable, but thats not the point. I tried to polish it out with normal Autoglym but stayed the same, its left a textured mark in the paint.
Autoglym brought the suspension turret up treat!
I started to thin the paint more than stated today to try and get a thinner coat, it went on really well will see how it hardens off.
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