What are you machining?

  1. knighty Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    1,955
    Location:
    Sunderland
    ohhhh, can you make gears for worm drive gearboxes ?

    I need one like this making... http://imgur.com/a/jyEFX

    bought a machine on ebay, was supposed to work :-(

    bearing had fallen apart, dropping ball bearings into gearbox, looks like they dancer around a bit before it was turned off
     
  2. tinman123

    tinman123 Putting the Extra into ordinary.

    Messages:
    1,077
    Location:
    Northern Iron.
    oooh is right, there is a fair bit of setting up in that boyo, its possible on a bridgeport but youd need a fair shot of tooling to do it.

    whats it out of, is there nowhere you could source a second hand one or a new one, maybe its silly money for all i know.
     
  3. Pete.

    Pete. Member

    Messages:
    9,172
    Location:
    Kent, UK
    Looks like a bronze worm, and it looks like it's work out rather than beaten up, might be the failed bearing has caused the worm to fall out of alignment and chewed itself to bits.

    Anyway, it's beyond me. What does it do? It looks like it carries a fair load in use.
     
  4. knighty Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    1,955
    Location:
    Sunderland
    it's a feed worm for a mincer - not the main mincing worm, this one pushes stuff into that one to feed it from a hopper

    motor driving it is about 3kw iirc

    looked everywhere, can't get one anywhere, suppliers talked about making one from scratch but they want more than the mincer cost

    went to three local engineering places I was sure could make one... all three have shut down :-(


    had some work done at a big engineering place a while back, they did a nice job turning down a bandsaw wheel for me that was damaged... but it took them 8 months to get around to it... too many big jobs on etc.. means I was always at the back of the queue :-(
     
  5. ukracer Forum Supporter

    Not sure if it's possible but perhaps you could pay @doubleboost to have a go. would make classic Sunday night nite cap ;)
     
  6. The_Yellow_Ardvark

    The_Yellow_Ardvark perkele

    Messages:
    12,679
    Location:
    England
    I did not machine it, but watched it.
    I nipped along to a local car restoration business.
    They have a pre war Cadillac they are putting on a new body onto it.

    I watched one of the older staff members draw onto a sheet of metal the out line for a rear wing and arch.

    I was allowed to watch him use an English wheel, shot bags and a whole range of dollies and hammers to produce it.
    I left as they were trail fitting it, it was not far out.

    Impressed Vark.
     
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  7. knighty Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    1,955
    Location:
    Sunderland
    maybe I should make a new thread instead of jumping on this one ?

    I'm happy to pay anyone who can make me one, seams like all the local engineering places have shut down :-(
     
  8. nick952

    nick952 Member

    Messages:
    242
    Location:
    Wrexham, N.Wales
  9. tinman123

    tinman123 Putting the Extra into ordinary.

    Messages:
    1,077
    Location:
    Northern Iron.
    if its as good as it reads that looks like a damn good lead there.
    the only thing left after that id be what they might charge but one can only hope its reasonable.
     
  10. 8ob

    8ob Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    5,403
    Location:
    moscow on thames
    I need to mill 75 thou off the mating flange on this pto takeoff flange, can anyone think of a simple way to hold this down so I can mill the top face?
    I have the basic hold down T slot kits but nothing to anchor this down with:dontknow:

    Bob

    [​IMG]
     
  11. tinman123

    tinman123 Putting the Extra into ordinary.

    Messages:
    1,077
    Location:
    Northern Iron.
    another pic or two would tell a bit more about it.
    id remove the gears before id mill anything on it first anyways.
    that bottom flange, is it bolted on or part of the cast?
    are both flanges the same width?
    is it too wide to fit in a 6" machine vice or will it fit between the jaws?

    if it fitted inside the jaws id be inclined to mock up something for it to sit on to get it level, you could use a short bolt and a nut to use as a mini jack to support it but with adjustment to dial it in.
    i take it its a one off, if there was more than one to be done id consider making up a jig to bolt the bottom flange to, it id make the job a quick one.
    the way its sitting there, is it as near as damn it to sitting level?

    the ears that are holding the gears, is that a round thats milled into the ears, if it was id mount it on my rotating table and mill it with a shell mill, id mill lit with a shell mill anyways but it id be simple enough one pass if the part was round.
     
  12. 8ob

    8ob Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    5,403
    Location:
    moscow on thames
    Thanks for taking the time to reply tinman, The underside is flat as in the pic below and its the top side with the gears that needs material removed. All the places on the underside are as cast and not true to the machined register, I was going to remove the pto gear prior to machining anyway. Its too big to fit in my machine vice, in the absence of an alternative easier solution I am thinking of fabricating a small frame with a bolt in each corner to level it . Its a slippery beggar and I have to be careful because its the last one available from the factory.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  13. tinman123

    tinman123 Putting the Extra into ordinary.

    Messages:
    1,077
    Location:
    Northern Iron.
    yes, if they are that hard to come by personally (like you id imagine going by your last post) id like to mill it when id be damn sure it wasnt going anywhere.
    you could hawk up something but as you say its slippery looking.

    so, to make a job of it id make up a mounting plate for it.
    think it out a bit first as you know and weld up something that id be as close as possible to the angle it is, made up out of flat plate and some spacers, notch some bolt holes in it to the bed and drill the angle to bolt the cast to.
    bolt the cas tto it tight and mount the face thats to be machined on the mill, space it up with a known pair of level surfaces and clamp it tight to clear your lugs.
    then mill the top side of the jig plate to go true.
    flip it over, clamp it down and mill your surface in confidence.
    no doubt it ill take a bit of extra time to make a jig, but not too much and as you know, its worth the wait.
    your heart id be in your mouth if you had it clamped the other way.
    if you had a rotating table you could make a nice job of the radii if they were a circle.

    looks like you have a decent looking set up there, there must be a bit more if your packing dormers like that....:fish:
     
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  14. 8ob

    8ob Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    5,403
    Location:
    moscow on thames
    Another day tinman, keep up to 3" :)

    I gave up and bought a tingtong tilt table off the bay of thieves for £60. Its got tiny t slots and no space to clamp it down on the mill bed so I will have to get a bit creative. :mad: upside is it will do the job.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  15. tinman123

    tinman123 Putting the Extra into ordinary.

    Messages:
    1,077
    Location:
    Northern Iron.
    i have a rotary table here with the same problem, the two mounting holes on it when vertical are wider then the table.
    i have a 20mm plate here that im planning on machining to make an adapter plate from one to the other.
    youl be doing as much id imagine, turn it around 90 dgs and clamp it to a wider plate and it to the table.to the table.
    what about mounting the cast on top, its a bit tight..
    them two holes look close but not close enough.
    you dont want to rise it too much
    two wider 10mm plates, a face mill and some countersinks i suppose..
     
  16. Kram

    Kram Member

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    1,200
    Location:
    Sussex
  17. Kram

    Kram Member

    Messages:
    1,200
    Location:
    Sussex
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  18. Kram

    Kram Member

    Messages:
    1,200
    Location:
    Sussex
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Going to make a 22->16mm shaft so I can index with change gears. Made retaining plate, need to drill and drill/tap the front. Got one of these to mount it on. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112035108188
     
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  19. Pete.

    Pete. Member

    Messages:
    9,172
    Location:
    Kent, UK
    Made a clamp holder for a sensitive level. It's part of a tool for measuring machine wear and alignment. No machining today but I'll be completing the rest of it over the break.

    kw1.jpg
     
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  20. Tinbasherdan

    Tinbasherdan Bodger in chief

    Messages:
    5,150
    Location:
    Bolton, England
    Landy wheel bearing drift. Usually use a bit of timber but I thought I'd try the Kerry out with its first cuts in about 10 years
     
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