I wend direct to the spindle so the gearing for feeds etc are still in play.
You will have to put up a thread on that conversion, my colchester is like a bag of spanners.
LOL most are, especially if the later square shaped head ones (Triumph 2000, Student 1800 etc). Roundheads, in my experience, were better.
There was nothing to it, I just made a big plate to hold the servo so it sat behind the headstock with its shaft poking out where the old pulley was. I then bored out a timing pulley to be a good fit on the back of the spindle and then tapped it onto the spindle and then locked it in place with a couple of Scotch Keys.
I managed to fit a couple of limit switches to the end of the shaft that the Fwd/Stop/Rev lever is attached to and they control my servo drive and I have a pot on the top of the lathe that controls the speed of the servo.
I might have some pics some place but whether I can find them is a different story, will have a look though.
Well can't find any pics but I did find a pic of my very first lathe
It's a generic one from RDG, nothing special. I don't have a lot of faith in the graduations on the dial so I only use them for roughing out, for finishing i put a DTI against the slide and use that to get my finish cut dialled in.
The brazed carbide boring bars that come with it don't have the best geometry for boring but I get away with them for the rough stuff I do
A Drummond Type M. My dad had one. You could put it in the Triumph and turn it down to Unimat size
I could almost have put it in the Churchill and used it as live tooling
Pic of the Triumphs indexing tool post sitting on top of the Churchills 4 way tool post.
Putting a new modern motor in my HLV. I have a 3hp Siemens motor with a 28mm shaft and the original had a 1.125" shaft which is about half a millimetre bigger making the pulley a floppy fit on the new motor.
I ended up boring the pulley out to 1.5", loctiting a slug of cast iron into the hole then boring it out to 28mm. I cut a keyway in the new bore and drilled/tapped for two m8 set screws on the line of the joint to form a 'scotch key' (aka dutch key/french key).
It worked out very well. The pulley is a nice tight fit, runout is 0.0003" radial and 0.0006" axial.
Making an ER32 backplate. Could have drilled and bored the ID but wanted to try holesaw on a 50mm thick part. It works, went 30mm deep on the first side then flipped. Quite slow because of chip clearance having to peck drill. I did not use a pilot as I want the centre for another part.
Well that's a cunning plan I never thought of!
What spindle speed?
I know these things are supposed to be slow but they love it, 450-600ish. Any slower and the motor has no torques and easy stalled. I need to modify the pully setup! faster the lathe started to wobble - thats a 3kg lump of steel in there.
The 32mm holesaw cut nice to 32.27mm ID
I want to reduce most of the 98mm OD to about 65mm Im very tempted to buy a bigger holesaw for it.
Nothing special just some new feed Shaft bushes for the Harrison in sae 660 bronze. What a mess that made!
Still need to mill the flats for the set screw but I'm delighted with how they turned out.
First time I've bored a hole without messing it up first time.
Fit a spare digital calliper to my imperial slide, no more random sized parts!
Thes cheap digi calipers are great for things like that, fitted a set to my manual Brigeports quill about 20 years ago and also a pair to the tailstock of a lathe I had.
Bleeding things were that hard I couldn't drill through them with HSS and had to resort to carbide
I started with hacksaw and it wouldnt touch it, got the mini grinder out and used carbide drills, and a good 10 min wasted thinking how to hold in the vice..
BTW I also removed the depth measuring rod, you better watch you don't poke your eye out
Yep.. it wasnt my eye (thankfully) but it took a few days for the cut to heal - I only reached past it to get something off a shelf.
Mr Dremel stopped that happening again.
Is that on a vertical slide on your lathe?
Half a drummond M would be another way of looking at it...
I need more storge space. Er32 collets are taking a whole draw...
Test, of what was a spade bit, ground a taper. Cut very well but its a bit small so need to do another.
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