Renovating/servicing a Rapidor hacksaw

[graffian]

I can't see there are any bit's you couldn't mend/make/modifysomeotherparts. 20 quid sounds about right;-)

 

[ronan]

Might have to take the plunge so.

 

[breezer]

Bear in mind some of the parts arent necessary for operation - the clutch, arm and trigger mechanism is really designed for shutting the saw off when operating from shaft drive. If you have a motor running the saw then a microswitch is probably better as the motor would remain running otherwise.

Id say they are more important if you want a restoration.

Saw is definitely looking good and will be a real workhorse for you - imagine how much work its already done and like you say - swiss watch.

Old bloke at the end of the street was telling me they used to have two fellas solely employed to work a rapidor saw on 3 shifts back when he was working in a big engineering firm in leeds. So they would be going 24 hours a day

 

[brightspark]

Bear in mind some of the parts arent necessary for operation - the clutch, arm and trigger mechanism is really designed for shutting the saw off when operating from shaft drive. If you have a motor running the saw then a microswitch is probably better as the motor would remain running otherwise.

Id say they are more important if you want a restoration.

Saw is definitely looking good and will be a real workhorse for you - imagine how much work its already done and like you say - swiss watch.

Old bloke at the end of the street was telling me they used to have two fellas solely employed to work a rapidor saw on 3 shifts back when he was working in a big engineering firm in leeds. So they would be going 24 hours a day

it was probably the one i bought 30 odd years ago .all the bearings were clapped out pulley and clutch missing bed and vice were worn and had to be built up with weld . plates screwed to the vice jaws vice screw clapped out guide rails i re ground. apart from that it was in good condition

 

[brewdexta]

Nice looking saw BS

Got most of it back together today after showevling a couple of tonne of FYM and other garden chores.

I just need to weld some ends on the bar for th vice, get a 1/4" BSW wing nut for the blade, put the spings back on, put the shelf and suds tray on and put the guard back on and stick it on some wheels. The guard and suds tank are being blasted so I'll make a shelf next, stick it on wheels and add the bar for the vice.

I gave it a quick go and its very quiet, wobbles a bit on the workmate so

Cheers
Andy

 

[Welderpaul]

Cracking job Andy, be a shame to use it. Whats the set screw do on the front of the dash pot? Mine never had that nd i can't see one on BS's.

 

[brightspark]

Cracking job Andy, be a shame to use it. Whats the set screw do on the front of the dash pot? Mine never had that nd i can't see one on BS's.

that screw would stop the saw frame from tilting up and over to far backwards ,otherwise the piston in the dashpot would pull out . no big deal but u would loose the oil. smart job are u going to use the dashpot for relief stroke on blade or not bother ?? i dont use mine and the blades dont seem to suffer

 

[brewdexta]

Cheers guys

It's definitely going to get used so won't stay light grey for long, at least I know it works properly and I can rely on it.

are u going to use the dashpot for relief stroke on blade or not bother ?? i dont use mine and the blades dont seem to suffer

I haven't had time to play with it yet so not sure what it can do. It took me a while to determine it cuts on the forward stroke so I could fit the blade correctly. How do you get it to use the dashpot on the return stroke?

Cheers
Andy

 

[MattF]

How do you get it to use the dashpot on the return stroke?

It's just a damper, to give a bit of resistance against the arms downward travel.

 

[brewdexta]

Hi Matt

I get that bit

It's how it's used on the backward non-cutting stroke that Brightspark implies that I'm not sure how to use. At least that's what I think he means

Cheers
Andy

 

[MattF]

I think BS was likely just referring to when you lift the arm up once it's completed cutting, not on the return stroke. With it being an open top pot, it'd be quite easy to accidentally lift it too high and pull the piston out of the pot.

 

[octo0072000]

wheels are not a good idea unless you want it wandering about the shop
another person on here fitted wheels bad idea unless you can remove them or lift them

 

[brewdexta]

I think BS was likely just referring to when you lift the arm up once it's completed cutting, not on the return stroke. With it being an open top pot, it'd be quite easy to accidentally lift it too high and pull the piston out of the pot.

Hi Matt
I've got the pot filled with some gear oil I had spare, lowers nice and slow and as along as you don't lift the arm too fast it doesn't spew oil everwhere, at least not from the pot ;-)

I heard that some Rapidor's lift a little on the return stroke so was wondering if that what BS was referring to that along with the dashpot as implied he saved blade wear - I guess we will have to find out from BS

Cheers
Andy

 

[brewdexta]

wheels are not a good idea unless you want it wandering about the shop
another person on here fitted wheels bad idea unless you can remove them or lift them

I've bought wheels with brakes, the kind you screw into the side of the wheels so only meant to be used for occasional movement. I'll give it a go and if its no good I have a plan B

no matter where you put it in the workshop there will be a bit of steel just that bit too long. or need to be cut on the angle etc. so having the ability to move it relatively easily is appealing.

Cheers
Andy

 

[madkayaker]

I've got mine bolted to a pallet so I move it with a pallet truck.

 

[brewdexta]

I've got mine bolted to a pallet so I move it with a pallet truck.

I like that idea, that may be better than my plan B

I've been meaning to get a pallet truck.

 

[brightspark]

Cheers guys

It's definitely going to get used so won't stay light grey for long, at least I know it works properly and I can rely on it.



I haven't had time to play with it yet so not sure what it can do. It took me a while to determine it cuts on the forward stroke so I could fit the blade correctly. How do you get it to use the dashpot on the return stroke?

Cheers
Andy

the blade cuts on the forward stroke . if u look at the frame when its cutting it rises on the forward stroke and lowers on the return. if the dashpot is filled with oil and the piston lowers on the return it will damp the downward motion and take the weight of the frame and the blade . the piston has holes drilled through and a washer underneath spring loaded theres an adjusting rod to alter the flow of oil giving diffrent damping rates. i dont fill mine or use it as i find the blades last a long time without it as long as u use cutting fluid

 

[brewdexta]

Thanks BS

It's as I thought then, no snake oil, unless you put some in the dashpot

For a moment I thought there was a particular arm requried to be set up to make it lift on the back stroke, I have only had it moving momentrily as the reciprocating action threatens to throw it off the workmate so I haven't observed tehe lifting motion yet.

I've biscuit jointed and glued two bits of spare oak floor board together and will push it through the thicknesser when its set. I should have the shot blasted suds reservoir back soon so should be ready about the same time.

Cheers
Andy

 

[breezer]

When the saw cuts forward the arm will lift slightly when it pulls back it will fall slightly bu because it is damped it will not have as much pressumre on the workpiece thereby not heating / wearing the saw lade as much

 

[Shox Dr]

I have only had it moving momentrily as the reciprocating action threatens to throw it off the workmate so
Cheers
Andy

Sounds like you need an hydraulic lift there fella