Sometimes you have to tease a drill down it, then tap it out.Try twisting it back. A large vice with aluminium soft jaws gripping the shaft then a pair of Stilsons with ali sheet wrapped around the teeth ought to get something to happen.
Can you drill into them ? i thought they would be too hardSometimes you have to tease a drill down it, then tap it out.
I think i may try a combination of ideas later if I get time , i'll drill one side first then see if i can twist it. Like you say re-reaming it is possible and they are not expensiveTaper pins are soft. Choose a drill bit smaller than the small end of the pin and enter from the small end.
That being said, the twisting and punching idea is worth trying. You need a short, well-fitted punch to get it moving and solid support of the part. A wobbly long parallel pin punch is not the right tool.
You can always re-ream and use a bigger pin on reassembly.
The rack gear could be circular pitch, which makes finding a cutter for it more difficult. It also has a low tooth count, which also requires thought.
Identify its specification first (measure the rack) and then decide.
It only looks half worn. Cut it off, flip it 180 degrees and join it back on so its unworn bit engages the rack.
Maybe if there is space, you can use spacers behind the rack to move it onto the unworn part of the pinion teeth.
If the gear is worn, so will be the rack. It might be possible to flip the rack as well.
Oh dear i did I dont have the money, time or skill to do that so i think its gonna to look like a well used machineRe: Paint or not to paint. Get it making chips and see what it's like.
Whatever you do DON'T look at this:
If you can determine module/DP and pressure angle then you can probably buy the gear and weld on to a shaft.this is the gear/shaft that engages with the rack on the bed of the lathe and its really worn would this be expensive to get made ?
You ain't seent the 1950s BTH in my Holbrook... That is 3 HP in each of 3 speeds though!
I hacked one - it's an old ABB (ACS-300 series, £50 secondhand), meant to be 415 3-phase in but a "modification" (about 20p) fools it into thinking it has 480v in - it does shorten the life of the main bus capacitors (£15-25 to replace when they get tired, warning is repeated under-volt alarms) and invalidates UL, CE etc. approvals, probably responsible for Gerbil Warming and holes in the ozone layer too, for all I know - but it works.There is the option to get a 240v to 400v 3phase inverter but they are stupid money I cant justify it
measured it and its module 1.5 15 teeth i can buy one for about £15If you can determine module/DP and pressure angle then you can probably buy the gear and weld on to a shaft.
measured it and its module 1.5 15 teeth. I can buy one for about £15
Yeah im going to keep a note of everything I find out about it there must be others aboutIt would be good to jot down all these things you find out and keep as an appendix to the manual. It may help the next owner.
If the gear is cheap, maybe buy two and machine them together. Keep the other in the cabinet (electrical cabinet base?) as a spare.
Your challenge is to use the machine to fix itself. Probably could be done by locking the carriage and using the compound for longitudinal travel.
I'll have to turn off the boss on the new gear as the roller bearings in the apron are only 4mm from the gear edge so not sure I will be able to pin itPIn and socket it, leave a “v”, weld up with the mig. If it’s ok for car driveshafts it will be fine for your lathe.