Erwin the X-type

[Wightsparks]

Thanks @Melvyn Best The " fuel metering valve" is by the pump not on the rail - it being blocked/contaminated comes up early in the diagnosis chart.
Going to replace the filter then when the 21mm injector socket arrives I'll tighten the loose injector as that is a rather obvious issue. If that does not fix it then yes a leak off test is probably next, the kit is cheap enough - unless I can get any more useful codes out of it.

 

[Wightsparks]

Replaced the filter (and primed), tightened the injector with a the window socket, but despite modifying a couple of spanners could not get a good enough grip to stop the injector top rotating, tightened it a bit more but it needs doing properly. To me the specified injector socket is too short it barely engages on the base and covers most of the flats for preventing the top from rotating. Got it as far as a stumbling firing under cranking but no actual idle.
Going to get a leak off kit at the same time as the special injector alignment tool.

I am still thinking that the timing belt has jumped, so I will get/make the tool to pull the fuel pump inspection cover off so I can see the chain.. but one thing at a time!

 

[Melvyn Best]

Has the crankshaft pulley been changed ? Some modern engines don’t have a key way for the timing gears and are just clamped by the crank pulley bolt, when the bolt is removed it can allow the valve timing to move.

 

[Wightsparks]

Not as far as I can tell -

Heads up if you need to remove and replace injectors on a Duratorq engine do NOT buy the SX042 Sealey 21mm injector removal socket - "designed" for it , 1. It's too short and 2. it's "window" is half round so even the special tool (that Sealey also sell) for keeping the injectors lined up will not fit. There is a Laser version that is only 1/3 round that should work -and does not need the special tool.
I had to heavily modify the Sealey one with a cutting disk, hacksaw and a grinder.

Leak off kit arrived so that's next

 

[Turbo]

Not as far as I can tell -

Heads up if you need to remove and replace injectors on a Duratorq engine do NOT buy the SX042 Sealey 21mm injector removal socket - "designed" for it , 1. It's too short and 2. it's "window" is half round so even the special tool (that Sealey also sell) for keeping the injectors lined up will not fit. There is a Laser version that is only 1/3 round that should work -and does not need the special tool.
I had to heavily modify the Sealey one with a cutting disk, hacksaw and a grinder.

Leak off kit arrived so that's next

You have to wonder if the designers of these 'special tools' ever tried to use them in a real world situation!

Like the special socket I bought to fit bottom ball joints on my 406. Failed on first use & went back to the shop for a refund.

 

[PhillipM]

I always just chisel those 405/406 balljoints off and only use the tool to torque new ones. They never have the strength to undo a siezed in old one.

 

[Melvyn Best]

Sealey tend to have a good idea sometimes but they don’t seem to get it right very often .

 

[arther dailey]

Laser tools arent bad,but I did have to grind of part of a special pulley removal tool because it was to fat, worked well after that minor mod.

 

[Wightsparks]

In general I find Sealey stuff of a higher quality than Laser and I am happy to pay the small extra. Quality was fine (as it should be for a £15 socket!) but the design was faulty in 2 different ways.

 

[HopefullySoon]

Welcome to kerbside motors

Story of stuff not even being close to fitting .... despite being flogged as the best thing since sliced bread .

Wish you well and looking on

 

[Wightsparks]

So got some time today, went to tighten inj #4 properly with my modified socket... almost tight... when the socket was pushed off the injector nut - the sleeve had moved down the injector about 10 mm. When I removed it the barrel was coated in engine oil. After that the sleeve does not turn smoothly so I think and internal seal/lip is bad. - Replaced it with the single spare injector in the car. Now car is firing partly on 1 cyl.

Did a leak off test, No3 very bad. Replaced with one of the set of 4 left in the car! - Same thing though lower part of the injector absolutely covered in thick engine oil and it was no where near done up to 47Nm.
Now getting a single cylinder fire but fuel rail pressure is around 420bar so that's good as originally around 78 bar! Still no start.

On a hunch I pulled inj No2 - barely more than hand tight and again covered in oil between the sleeve thread and the sealing washer. Is there an oil gallery there - would seem a bit odd, if not it can only have come down the thread from the top of the cylinder head because it was not tight enough.




So as that is 3/4 that were not tight enough I will take a look in the cyl with the inspection cam and then see how tight no 1 is...

Edit - look at some videos it does look like there must be an oil gallery around that part as others pulling them out are also oily.

 

[octo0072000]

have these injectors only been fitted recently and the 4 spare with the car are the originals and the one's fitted was never tightened properly ford injectors are coded to the car and the cylinder from memory and will need recoding to the car

 

[Wightsparks]

It looks like all 4 were replaced, that didn't fix it's rough running so they traded it in. Then the dealer replaced 1 (he said 2 but who knows) that didn't fix it either, then I got it and it stopped running after moving off the truck never to start again so far!

Yes they need coding, hopefully the icarsoft tool I got will do that (says it does!), I have now got all the codes - I dont think that would prevent starting just proper running!

No 1 was tightened another 15 degs to bring it to 47Nm. So now they are all tight and no leak off. Sounds like a rough fire on 2 cyl but still no start. I'll put up a video in a bit of the final start attempt, I think I am hearing something but like a 2nd opinion

 

[Wightsparks]

This was last attempt of the day (as you can hear the battery was slowing a little). It's an improvement from the original nothing as you can hear it catch slightly. I had just bled off inj 2 so there is a bit of diesel still on the cover. Anyone hear anything else/ got any ideas..

No movement from the turbo actuator but I think that only opens once it has actually started?

 

[Wightsparks]

Could not figure out why I had a CEL even before crank after a battery disconnection, turn out there is a P0753 code in the PCM module that I had not looked at - I assume that would set a CEL -the workshop manual says that's "Shift Solenoid A" - BUT that relates to an automatic and it's a manual..Anyone like @premmington know what else it might relate to (a solid hour of google turns up nothing) or could it be an error in the code reader?

 

[Wightsparks]

More diagnosis today - got some Easy Start -- ooh the shame, almost asked for a brown paper bag to take it away in... Anyway I had already tried it on WD40 with no joy, but it did indeed run on easy start whilst spraying it - though it sounded like a tractor, so at least I know I have compression, air and the timing can't be too far out.

The iCarsoft too will not code teh x-type injectors , just the XJ and XF

 

[Wightsparks]

Update (not getting much time on this)

Re-coded the injectors but noted that despite what I was told, none of the replacements had been re-coded.
At some stage all 4 injectors have been replaced, the original (coded) ones are in the box in the car - and one of the replacements has been replaced.
Entered all the codes properly and now it at least sounds like it might start but something is obviously still very wrong.

After cracking, cranking and re-tightening an injector nut (#4), there is a distinct bubbling sound, like small air bubbles from the pipe/return pipe or rail. It only lasts a few seconds and not been able to nail it down.

I will get the new oscilloscope on it this week for a compression test, then a crank/cam comparison as think I have found a known good one for comparison. Also a better look at exactly what is happening with the rail pressure as the max is OK but the diag tool shows a big oscillation.

Still leaning towards timing or broken valve train though!
Vid of it running on easy-start spraying into the intake so hits the cylinders at about 10s.

 

[Melvyn Best]

Brake cleaner used in a proper sprayer works as well as Eazistart . Can you do a fuel rail leak off test?

 

[Wightsparks]

Thanks @Melvyn Best , Done that, one leaking badly, replaced, all good, fuel pressure up to 430 bar (max)
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/erwin-the-x-type.94441/page-3#post-1417127

Between the un-attached crank sensor, the leaky injector, loose injectors and the non coding of the injectors I feel like I am still working on the previous "fixes" and have not actually got to the original problem yet!

 

[HopefullySoon]

After all this ...

Is it worth it for the grief your taking from it ?

I admire your persistence with it hand on heart .

But I fear without a HUGE bill at jaguar (who will renew every associated part known to man to fix it ) it never going to be right .

You have ruled out the obvious suspects, it’s something either Too obvious , or way involved ruling things in /out .

I hope you find the fault but the wiring is miles long on it end to end

Malc