Could be crank sensor hence the rough running and now not starting
Good idea- I have the 2,810 page workshop manual so there might be a way of testing
Right so having a few minutes spare I thought I would have a poke around with the inspection cam, I found a small loose pipe off the air intake - between filter and MAF sensor unfortunately, so no change to start - as expected.
However, bearing in mind Craig's post re crank sensor I took a look down there and I am pretty sure that's it - waggling around in the breeze..
Pull it out, inspect and bolt up tomorrow.
Alas took it out, cleaned, checked resistance @400 ohm OK, Re- mounted and still no start.
"Torque" was showing an RPM reading during cranking along with a MAF output but no fuel pressure - this maybe actually no fuel pressure or just not being picked up. Though as mentioned a cracked injector nut shows fuel.
Pulled one of the injector leads and I get the flashing pre-heat symbol - but again no codes stored which is odd. Thinking a MUCH better code reader might be in order...
Having got the iCarsoft reader I was able to get to the car briefly and get the "current" codes which were:
0409 + 0404 = EGR feedback
1637 + 1638 = CAN link to ECU/ABS/network malfunction
1211 + 0190 + 0191 = fuel rail pressure, circuit/sensor/performance (I pulled the pressure sensor plug whilst the ign was off - would that store a code?)
0201 - Inj 1 disconnected (I did this yesterday as a test to see if I could get ELM+Torque to read the code - it didn't.)
0251 - injector metering control malfunction
Could the CAN errors be from me plugging in the ELM OBD2 unit? These were only from the last few days as I had the battery out to do visual inspections.
After clearing the codes and cranking over a few times the only one remaining was P0409 which is the EGR feedback - when i looked yesterday the EGR valve is closed and the pipes looked clean - it would not stop it from starting anyway. No mention of Cam or Crank sensor issues.
I did a live graph of fuel rail pressure whilst cranking and got 15,500psi max, it was up and down so I presume injectors were firing.
Makes me wonder if there is a main plug loose somewhere - or I fixed it with the loose crank sensor and it's just flooded!
Going to do more graphing tomorrow.
Is the EGR vacuum or electrically controlled?
Pretty sure it's vac from memory - I know there is a vac line going to it.
Take the EGR off and test its operation. If it has the electrical connection then it just monitors if it’s open or closed. You mentioned the pipes were clean when you looked at them which is strange as they are usually covered in a greasy soot even on a working EGR.
I had assumed EGR as one of the possible reasons for bad idle - but if it's shut I can't see that it would not prevent starting. However it's non functioning might be a symptom or cause of a vac leak. - Good thought!
edit - looking at the detail for the 0404 and 0409 codes they seem to relate to the EGR sensor and flow sensor circuitry - which comes back to my theory about a loose big connector somewhere - to the wiring diagrams batman!
Ok so EGR is a red herring - I had not clicked the sensor plug into place, now the car says there is nothing wrong
I pulled off the EGR anyway so I could blow from the filter pipe to the EGR intake - holds pressure fine and flows easily.
I went back to the crank angle sensor and pulled it out as something was bugging me - despite no code there is a crack in it so it may well be the culprit.
Replaced the crank sensor, still no start.
Cleared all the codes, cranked a few times whilst recording on the diag tool, I swear it caught - just once. After a couple of tries I got a "Low fuel pressure during cranking" error.
Looking at the steps recorded by the tool the FP was 5,400kPa - 8,400kPa (84 bar) - should be in the region of 20,000kPa /200bar - though peak recorded on the graph was 16,000kPa
Went to loosen off the union nut on injector 4 to check for air only to find that the injector was moving rather than the nut so the injector is loose, not sure if this is one of the ones that has been swapped out or not. Not seeing any leakage but the high pressure seal is under the valve cover.
So that's next to tighten, also got a new fuel filter coming.
What bugs me is that it was running rough/misfiring but then it just cut out so whatever it was got suddenly much worse under load.
Definitely worth trying a leak off test while cranking. My bet is on one or more of the injectors being naff and not allowing the rail to pressure up enough to start.
A squirt of easy start usually gets the engine spinning fast enough to build the pressure up enough and get it to start.
Did you change the fuel filter in the end? Had one or 2 old clogged filters cause low rail pressure too.
Thanks @Leigh I have a new filter arriving on Monday as that was also my thinking for a first stop on the low FP. Going to cut up the old one to check for swarf.
I need to tighten the loose injector as I am sure that is not helping with compression if nothing else - also it looks like all 4 injectors have been swapped as there are 4 in the engine cover+1 in a jiffy bag in the car. Going to try and get a hold of the mechanic that worked on it to get an idea of what's gone on.
Unfortunately by the time I got the car it had gone from misfire to non runner. Might reluctantly give Easystart a go.
Oh and welcome to the forum !
Nothing of worthy note to add
About 5 years ago I had the 3.0 petrol version (LPG conversion) .
Never mind Mondeo in a smart suit .... it’s a jag in drag .
Next door to me had one too , an 09 2.0 D , mine was a 03 reg .
They both went to the scrapyard in the sky at the time for difference things , mine went as it grabbed and spun a crankshaft shell , and next doors went for the sill problem .
We both agreed that
1 it wasn’t a proper jag
2 we would never have another again
The x-type only shared 19% of it's parts with the Mondeo - fortunately mostly engine parts so I don't have to pay Jag tax.
Rear track control arms are defo Ford. Took mine off to replace worn bushes and found FoMoCo stamped on them!
Unless it's 4wd, then they're Jag.
New filter not turned up eyt but I pulled and chopped the old one, unbranded, but no swarf. The fuel I drained out of the filter (from the intake side) is sparkly clean too. So no closer to a solution - but at least the pump does not look like it has self destructed.
Injector leakback test would be a good idea. I can’t remember where the fuel pressure regulator is on that engine but I have had several problems with the type that is screwed into the fuel rail not holding pressure which will cause poor or no starting. If it is the screw in type it’s likely that Jaguar sell it complete with the fuel rail, you may find an independent diesel specialist may sell just the regulator.
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