Today I acquired...........

[Memmeddu]

Pictures View attachment 491435
Stihl bar
View attachment 491436
AEG BZ22
View attachment 491437
@JOEPRO I couldn't resist
STIHL 025 for 35 euro

Came on yesterday
It needs a new piston rings and crank bearings.
Otherwise perfect condition even the cylinder bore is perfect

 

[6ply]

Enerpac 20t. Needs some serious repair by the look of it. Scrap bin or worth saving?

 

[Memmeddu]

Enerpac 20t. Needs some serious repair by the look of it. Scrap bin or worth saving?
View attachment 491944View attachment 491946

Useful bit of kit but it's kinda not worth to repair unless you're able to get slightly oversized seals which is unlikely.
You have to bore the cylinder head because surely damaged and not enough meat.
It's cheaper to make another one saving the cylinder and pack but you surely have to make another ram and cylinder head.
I don't know how it's made inside, never dismantled one yet but I'm pretty sure you'll have to cut the ram to attempt to remove the head 100% and a good chance you'll have to turn off the head in the lathe.
Get a good chain type pipe vise because it'll be a hell of a lot of fun trying to loosen it up free

 

[Brad93]

Useful bit of kit but it's kinda not worth to repair unless you're able to get slightly oversized seals which is unlikely.
You have to bore the cylinder head because surely damaged and not enough meat.
It's cheaper to make another one saving the cylinder and pack but you surely have to make another ram and cylinder head.
I don't know how it's made inside, never dismantled one yet but I'm pretty sure you'll have to cut the ram to attempt to remove the head 100% and a good chance you'll have to turn off the head in the lathe.
Get a good chain type pipe vise because it'll be a hell of a lot of fun trying to loosen it up free

That can be repaired.

You'll need a new rod and a new gland.

I doubt the bore is trashed because the rod won't be able to retract in its current state.

A good hydraulic cylinder firm will be able to sort it

 

[6ply]

That can be repaired.

You'll need a new rod and a new gland.

I doubt the bore is trashed because the rod won't be able to retract in its current state.

A good hydraulic cylinder firm will be able to sort it

i doubt I'll want to pay for a professional repair. I'll get it open and assess what needs doing.

 

[Memmeddu]

That can be repaired.

You'll need a new rod and a new gland.

I doubt the bore is trashed because the rod won't be able to retract in its current state.

A good hydraulic cylinder firm will be able to sort it

I wasn't meaning the cylinder bore I was trying to say the gland bore where the ram slides.
I missed the word .
And yes surely ram and gland.

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

Would make a lovely side table lamp I reckon...even has a hole for the cable already there .

 

[Jelly_Sheffield]

The other issue is the cutters aren't available anymore, and they're specific to that era of Roland machines.
I had to get a couple batches custom made.

This is not so much of an issue, given I bought it with a grinder specifically designed for making that type of cutter.

I can buy TC or HSS rod, rough out the cutting end on the surface grinder then add the relief and point on the D-Bit grinder pretty easily.

I think I have some 3-flute 1.5mm end-mills on a extra long ⅛" shank that would be long enough to fit too.

So even better...

The previous owner has made a tiny drawbar and Weldon style end-mill holder for ⅛" tooling with a little brass push-block that means you don't need a Weldon Shank flat on the tool.

That means I can just buy tooling from APT without modification.

I used to have a Roland engraver at home and despite repeated efforts could not get the software working on windows 10. We still have a different Roland engraver/mill at work and that one remains (mostly unused) connected to a machine with a standalone copy of windows xp. I have used it to create a few PCBs.

I will have to see, if I have to get a little mini pc and set it up to dual boot XP or 98 to run it, that's still probably a lot cheaper than a CNC controller.

There's also a website from a czech uni that seems to have written a post processor for one of the commercial CAM softwares that can talk to the Roland controller and send it G-Code to execute.

 

[Onthespotwelding]

Enerpac 20t. Needs some serious repair by the look of it. Scrap bin or worth saving?

Showan hydraulics can repair any hydraulic cylinder. I’ve had good service from them in the past.

Hydraulic Cylinder Repairs and Hydraulic Ram Repairs in Kent, Canterbury – Showan Hydraulics, UK

Showan Hydraulics offer hydraulic cylinder repairs and hydraulic ram repairs services in Kent, Canterbury.

www.showan.co.uk

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

I got an:
"Oh."

The contents I will explain soon.


But this this the "Oh."

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

I also acquired this to sort out for 3 Men In Sheds.

 

[6ply]

Showan hydraulics can repair any hydraulic cylinder. I’ve had good service from them in the past.

Hydraulic Cylinder Repairs and Hydraulic Ram Repairs in Kent, Canterbury – Showan Hydraulics, UK

Showan Hydraulics offer hydraulic cylinder repairs and hydraulic ram repairs services in Kent, Canterbury.

www.showan.co.uk

Thanks for the suggestion.

I don't doubt that it could be repaired but whether it is economically attractive to be repaired I am doubtful. I know that 20 tonne import rams can be purchased for less than £100.

 

[6ply]

What am I going to do with these solid rivets? About 3kg of them. Probably stainless steel. Very slightly attracted to a magnet. 2.34mm dia, 12.8mm long.

 

[Turbo]

What am I going to do with these solid rivets? About 3kg of them. Probably stainless steel. Very slightly attracted to a magnet. 2.34mm dia, 12.8mm long.

View attachment 492037

Do a lot of riveting?

 

[Arc Tourist]

What am I going to do with these solid rivets? About 3kg of them. Probably stainless steel. Very slightly attracted to a magnet. 2.34mm dia, 12.8mm long.

View attachment 492037

You could carefully drill some friction fit holes on a steel plate in the shape of letters or numbers, and drive the rivets in to make a bespoke number plate or name for your house ?
A lot of work, but something different.

Edit: The plate may rust, but the rivets won't and should provide a nice contrast; if you like this sort of thing.

 

[6ply]

You could carefully drill some friction fit holes on a steel plate in the shape of letters or numbers, and drive the rivets in to make a bespoke number plate or name for your house ?
A lot of work, but something different.

Or Braille!

 

[Arc Tourist]

Or Braille!

Actually, that's not a bad idea.

 

[Robotstar5]

What am I going to do with these solid rivets? About 3kg of them. Probably stainless steel. Very slightly attracted to a magnet. 2.34mm dia, 12.8mm long.

View attachment 492037

Become a Rivet counter

 

[m_c]

So even better...

The previous owner has made a tiny drawbar and Weldon style end-mill holder for ⅛" tooling with a little brass push-block that means you don't need a Weldon Shank flat on the tool.

That means I can just buy tooling from APT without modification.

I'd be interested to see some photos of that setup, although I'm not likely to modify mine though, as I bought enough cutters to last me many years!
Plus mine hardly gets used, and I'm likely to sell it once I get the latest milling machine up and running, as it's got a higher speed spindle and similar work area.

I will have to see, if I have to get a little mini pc and set it up to dual boot XP or 98 to run it, that's still probably a lot cheaper than a CNC controller.

There's also a website from a czech uni that seems to have written a post processor for one of the commercial CAM softwares that can talk to the Roland controller and send it G-Code to execute.

<pedant mode>
It's not G-code, as G-code is a fairly specific machine control code, whereas Roland use their own machine control code, which they call CAMM-GLI
(I've got the original manual which lists the full instruction sets - there are two instruction sets/modes)
</pedant mode>
There was also a guy over on mycncuk, who rolled their own controller. I can't get on the site just now, but IIRC he coded a drop in replacement chip, however last I'd heard he'd had a stroke, and I'm not sure how much, if any code he published. I think it was more a personal challenge for him, as building a new controller would have taken far less time and effort.

 

[Jelly_Sheffield]

<pedant mode>
It's not G-code, as G-code is a fairly specific machine control code, whereas Roland use their own machine control code, which they call CAMM-GLI
(I've got the original manual which lists the full instruction sets - there are two instruction sets/modes)
</pedant mode>

I realise this having actually read the manual now.

Still, if I can set up a post processor in solid-edge to produce CAMM-GLI files, and use a PowerShell script to export the code over serial to the controller, that will allow me to avoid Dr. Engraver all together.

I'd be interested to see some photos of that setup, although I'm not likely to modify mine though, as I bought enough cutters to last me many years!
Plus mine hardly gets used, and I'm likely to sell it once I get the latest milling machine up and running, as it's got a higher speed spindle and similar work area.

I will see if I can grab some when I go to set it up properly.

I can see how once you had a fully fledged CNC mill it would be kinda pointless to retain the engraver.

I have been deliberately avoiding CNC, so as to also avoid starting the countdown to my magpie tendancies dragging home an irresistible "Bargain" on something far too large (NC Huron's often go very cheaply for instance)...

I may have started down a dangerous path.