qwakers
Member
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- 2,431
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- cornwall, united kingdom
paint in progress....front arms cut off ready for the 'new' ones from a breaker that had had the recall done.
- Thread starter qwakers
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brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
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- 5,750
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- UK
I bought 4 active PA speakers off of Facebook marketplace, decent make, for 180 quid. Two are 15", the other two are 10", ideal for stage monitors. Just needed a some new knobs on the volume controls. The knob vendors web address made the kids giggle 
Then a powered 15" sub woofer came up only 5 mins away from where I was dropping the daughter off for a brass band event. So I drove around to have a look. It was a Wharfedale Pro, I didn't know Wharfedale made PA speakers until recently. It was from a less than salubrious area of Halifax and the guys who brought it to the car absolutely stunk of skunk. They said it was working, I asked how they tested it and they said the power LED comes on when it's plugged in
I thought I would take a chance if they dropped the price, and they did, so set off home with it.
Of course it didn't work. I found the diagrams for the amp and power supply quickly enough, these big subs tend to shake components loose, but before diving in I tested the resistance of the voice coil on the bass driver and it was duff. I then tested the amp through some big old passive speakers using a tone generator app to sweep through the frequencies, making sure it passed highs on the sub out too. All OK.
So, old driver out.
New driver in, on offer for 40 quid, it's four ohm impedance like the original but I couldn't find a Wharfedale, new or second hand.
I knocked all the dents out of the grille and gave it a quick spray of satin black rattle can.
Sounds great, not sure how low it goes, probably around 50hz, maybe a tad lower.. The demo version of the tone generator app is limited to 100hz.
Then a powered 15" sub woofer came up only 5 mins away from where I was dropping the daughter off for a brass band event. So I drove around to have a look. It was a Wharfedale Pro, I didn't know Wharfedale made PA speakers until recently. It was from a less than salubrious area of Halifax and the guys who brought it to the car absolutely stunk of skunk. They said it was working, I asked how they tested it and they said the power LED comes on when it's plugged in
I thought I would take a chance if they dropped the price, and they did, so set off home with it.
Of course it didn't work. I found the diagrams for the amp and power supply quickly enough, these big subs tend to shake components loose, but before diving in I tested the resistance of the voice coil on the bass driver and it was duff. I then tested the amp through some big old passive speakers using a tone generator app to sweep through the frequencies, making sure it passed highs on the sub out too. All OK.
So, old driver out.
New driver in, on offer for 40 quid, it's four ohm impedance like the original but I couldn't find a Wharfedale, new or second hand.
I knocked all the dents out of the grille and gave it a quick spray of satin black rattle can.
Sounds great, not sure how low it goes, probably around 50hz, maybe a tad lower.. The demo version of the tone generator app is limited to 100hz.
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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- Keeler crater
Should have asked on here.
Picture is from about seven years ago, I built a big enclosure but never got around to buying a crossover. The plan was (is!) to get an active crossover and run it off a dedicated amp.
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
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- 5,750
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That one is 8 ohm impedance but close!Should have asked on here.
View attachment 489213
Picture is from about seven years ago, I built a big enclosure but never got around to buying a crossover. The plan was (is!) to get an active crossover and run it off a dedicated amp.
qwakers
Member
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- 2,431
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- cornwall, united kingdom
diff paintedand painted.
and all the bare aluminium lacquered.
just a reminder of what it all looked like a few days ago...
and a example of the crap i have to deal with every day....
ready to assemble sometime tomorrow afternoon.
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
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- 12,848
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- NE London - UK
After noticing some leaking from my boiler about a month ago I decided that I really did need to do something about it.
I suspected the diverter valve, since I'd repaired that a couple of years ago. However, it turned out to be the condensate pipe from the burner.
That the second time that it's given problems. First it was poorly assembled at the syphon end by a Ravenheat factory technician who came to rebuild it in after I'd made a complaint about the design of the burner supports. He didn't fir it fully over the spigot so it was weeping. When I had the boiler apart to do the diaphragm I was confronted with a pool of rusty water in the upper compartment containing the syphon.
I suppose it was to be expected that there'd be a failure at the other end eventually.
Anyway, after fiddling bits of self-amalgamating tape into the corrugations, I finished off with a great big bandage of tape over the lot. Leak now you bastard...
I suspected the diverter valve, since I'd repaired that a couple of years ago. However, it turned out to be the condensate pipe from the burner.
That the second time that it's given problems. First it was poorly assembled at the syphon end by a Ravenheat factory technician who came to rebuild it in after I'd made a complaint about the design of the burner supports. He didn't fir it fully over the spigot so it was weeping. When I had the boiler apart to do the diaphragm I was confronted with a pool of rusty water in the upper compartment containing the syphon.
I suppose it was to be expected that there'd be a failure at the other end eventually.
Anyway, after fiddling bits of self-amalgamating tape into the corrugations, I finished off with a great big bandage of tape over the lot. Leak now you bastard...
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
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- 12,848
- Location
- NE London - UK
And another thing.
I have a Rollei slide projector. IT wouldn't work from the manual button but was OK from the remote. This has caused me grief for several weeks. Eventually I found, purely by chance, that a wire end was waving in the breeze. Unfortunately it was under the carousel body which, despite hours of pondering, manoeuvring, and more pondering, I had been unable to remove. It just didn't seem physically possible. If anyone on the forum has tried to dismantle a Eumig 8mm projector they'll understand what I mean. There was, as far as I could make out, absolutely no way that it could have been assembled without a 1" midget crawling about under the deck to fit the last parts.
Brute force eventually won the day and, by straining a piece of plastic, that I expected at every second was going to break, I eventually got it apart.
This is what I found.
The red wire should be soldered to the pad where the other red wire is "attached" if that's what you can call it. Look also at the joint for the brown wire. It's little better. This is a 50 year old German made piece, so I'd have expected more of it. Anyway, after straining it all back together it worked. Now I can sell the bloody thing
I have a Rollei slide projector. IT wouldn't work from the manual button but was OK from the remote. This has caused me grief for several weeks. Eventually I found, purely by chance, that a wire end was waving in the breeze. Unfortunately it was under the carousel body which, despite hours of pondering, manoeuvring, and more pondering, I had been unable to remove. It just didn't seem physically possible. If anyone on the forum has tried to dismantle a Eumig 8mm projector they'll understand what I mean. There was, as far as I could make out, absolutely no way that it could have been assembled without a 1" midget crawling about under the deck to fit the last parts.
Brute force eventually won the day and, by straining a piece of plastic, that I expected at every second was going to break, I eventually got it apart.
This is what I found.
The red wire should be soldered to the pad where the other red wire is "attached" if that's what you can call it. Look also at the joint for the brown wire. It's little better. This is a 50 year old German made piece, so I'd have expected more of it. Anyway, after straining it all back together it worked. Now I can sell the bloody thing
Jelly_Sheffield
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.
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- 1,228
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- Sheffield, UK
Quad Lock mount for the truck.
It was slowly coming loose due to me doing a bad job of fitting the VHB pad to the textured A-Pillar, so I pulled it off and replaced the pads with Halfords knock off ones.
Not convinced that they're as good as the 3M ones but probably enough to hold a 300g phone up.
The Clico Clamps were a surprisingly convenient way to apply even pressure to a weirdly shaped object to get the pads stuck down.
- Messages
- 23,230
- Location
- Birmingham
Our dog tried jumping over the back seat onto the parcel shelf in Mrs Robo's car and cracked it, Mrs Robo's response was "I'll have to buy a new one", mine was "lets see if I can repair it"
Scraped the fabric off the underside to expose something adhesive will stick to then cut a couple of strips off a plastic sign I had in the "will come in handy one day" pile.
Mixed up some epoxy glue and clamped the strips in place, you can never have too many clamps.
A couple of coats of rattle can black to blend it in, as it's underneath at the front it should be OK.
Scraped the fabric off the underside to expose something adhesive will stick to then cut a couple of strips off a plastic sign I had in the "will come in handy one day" pile.
Mixed up some epoxy glue and clamped the strips in place, you can never have too many clamps.
A couple of coats of rattle can black to blend it in, as it's underneath at the front it should be OK.
- Messages
- 23,230
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- Birmingham
The area above the garage doors had some wasted space....
I had some OSB left over from making some shelves so a few minutes work to notch it with the jigsaw then a few big screws later...
Not a lot of weight on it as the cowls are thin pressed sheet and the fuel cans are empty
I had some OSB left over from making some shelves so a few minutes work to notch it with the jigsaw then a few big screws later...
Not a lot of weight on it as the cowls are thin pressed sheet and the fuel cans are empty
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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" Bend all the valves ." . timing chain failed at some time or other? Any marks on the pistons ?
Cambelt tensioner failure, had a good look at the pistons and they will go again.
Got all the valves ground in and fitted today, ready for him to fit tomorrow after work hopefully.
qwakers
Member
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- 2,431
- Location
- cornwall, united kingdom
hubs cleaned up and everything reassembled... just awaiting £200 worth of new brake pads...front mostly assembled but none of the arm bolts are tight. will sort that when its on the ground.
and rear subframe fitted, just waiting for the bushes and camber bolts to arrive.
driveshafts cleaned up, wire wheeled, abs rings knocked off and primed.
and the subframe mounting braces that i forgot to paint also....
In the process of fixing part of the cooling system for friend's boat (spent several hours today arms stretched and fingertips just reaching the bolts!), the original epoxy or whatever it was has become brittle and failed so going to try and redo it or just replace with a clone from aliexpress.
Hairdryer was a life saver for getting the stiff rubber tubes off!
Hairdryer was a life saver for getting the stiff rubber tubes off!
qwakers
Member
- Messages
- 2,431
- Location
- cornwall, united kingdom
all paintedhubs cleaned up and everything reassembled... just awaiting £200 worth of new brake pads...
driveshafts cleaned up, wire wheeled, abs rings knocked off and primed.
and the subframe mounting braces that i forgot to paint also....
and gearbox output seal changed.
just the brake pads and a pair of bushes to fit and its ready to go back on its wheels.
