Help offered cheap lathe but....

[prepman]

Decided to clean up the drills just to see how bad the rust was and they came up ok

Some of the flutes a bit worn but probably chucked around without care most of there lives, cutting edges look good no chips. ive used worse and been ok

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Knurler was next , cleaned up on wire wheel in bench grinder. Has hit a chuck at some point but no damage on the ones i have. All the wheels look good and are free

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So I decided to strip the 4 jaw down next as main body going in electrolysis tank. Tried one jaw and it cleaned up good so hopefully chuck should too

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You're certainly getting your money's worth! What stopped the chap who had it from restoring it. Curious?

 

[prepman]

Why would you need to do that ? I wonder what the lever with + and - is for on the saddle

Is it so you can engage/disengage the taper attachment?

 

[Agroshield]

Is it so you can engage/disengage the taper attachment?

I think the taper attachment needs the cross-slide disconnected from its normal handwheel - so the taper attachment drags it to and fro. When you are using the taper attachment, the longitudinal handwheel is very necessary.

The unbalanced handwheel idea is plausible given the quality of the machines cited, but also seems overcomplicated: making a handwheel that is balanced must be a lot simpler than the mechanical challenge of disconnecting it from its rack.

In the video referenced, it seemed still to be spinning when under power feed, only being stopped when in screwcutting mode, but that might have been a function of the person pushing the controls rather than the machine itself.

 

[Seadog]

Don't high end lathes have a permanently connected taper attachment? The feed screw is telescopic, so that once the taper slide is locked it allows the cross slide to move under control of the TTA.

 

[Pete.]

Don't high end lathes have a permanently connected taper attachment? The feed screw is telescopic, so that once the taper slide is locked it allows the cross slide to move under control of the TTA.

Yes the cross slide screw is anchored at the back end of a sliding bar. The screw is turned by a sliding spline and the bar is moved by the taper attachment. That way you can cut tapers but you still have the use of the cross slide.

 

[dieselsamurai]

You're certainly getting your money's worth! What stopped the chap who had it from restoring it. Curious?

My friend took it in a part ex for some money owed a few years ago i was wandering around his tent (its huge) about a year ago and he offered it to me at a great price so couldnt say no but it was rusty buy then as side had blown up on tent and it got wet (it was not rusty when he got it ) . It was behind a dead T54 tank so no chance to collect then i kinda forgot about it until sunday when he rang and said tents ripped so either have it or going in the scrap bin .

lots of stuff goes in his scrap bin(skip) I wish i could save

 

[dieselsamurai]

Yes the cross slide screw is anchored at the back end of a sliding bar. The screw is turned by a sliding spline and the bar is moved by the taper attachment. That way you can cut tapers but you still have the use of the cross slide.

This is on the bottom of the cross slide so i guess the must be an easy way of disconnecting as has been mentioned, looks way rustier than it is

 

[dieselsamurai]

Is it so you can engage/disengage the taper attachment?

its just odd it had + and - on it

 

[prepman]

Don't high end lathes have a permanently connected taper attachment? The feed screw is telescopic, so that once the taper slide is locked it allows the cross slide to move under control of the TTA.

Most likely.......
On my Student it has a sliding splined crosslide screw which can be detached from the handwheel and anchored at the back to whatever. If I had something to anchor it to. The main whatever bit's missing.

 

[Hopefuldave]

Don't high end lathes have a permanently connected taper attachment? The feed screw is telescopic, so that once the taper slide is locked it allows the cross slide to move under control of the TTA.

Holbrook built around a double cross-slide, the taper attachment (standard equipment) moves the lower slide relative to the carriage, the cross-slide screw moves the upper slide relative to the lower - a link on the lower engages with the taper bar shoe in use, or for parallel turning engages the carriage - so you can still use the crossfeed for depth of cut, or engage both cross and carriage feeds (gives a 90 degree included cone) at once and fine-adjust the angle with the taper attachment - or cut tapered threads (BSP etc) with the leadscrew, long tapers with the carriage feed,quite versatile.

Dave H. (the other one)

 

[dieselsamurai]

Ok finally got a chance to move it into the workshop so I could take a better look

There are two separate gearboxes in the head, oil looks great in both and so do the gears so im pleased with that



Definately a gap bed lathe that should be handy im sure



Motor is huge 2 speed but only 2.2kw 420v only and that will be an issue



Gearbox is huge too no wonder it weighs over 800kg ! im please oil levels and condition look good

 

[minimutly]

Don't let the motor be an issue, it will run and do most hobby style cuts on 220v three phase. Both my big millers run like this - sure you can load them up too much, and the speed drops off, but really - is it an issue?
I would get it running on an inverter, switch off the frequency/volts compensation, and one day a suitable motor will come allong.

 

[Pete.]

Drop the motor off and measure the shaft and bolt holes. I may well have one that will fix right up in it's place, 2.2kw and 240/415v so you could run it from a vfd.

 

[dieselsamurai]

Drop the motor off and measure the shaft and bolt holes. I may well have one that will fix right up in it's place, 2.2kw and 240/415v so you could run it from a vfd.

Cheers pete if i get a chance i'll do that in the next few days I often work in Dover/Ashford way

 

[dieselsamurai]

Looks like someone was a bit heavy handed with the spindle foot brake at some point , Im sure i can either repair or fabricate a replacement



Ok so when i pull motor im guessing it wont just slide out, will i need to unbolt it from the flange where the brake connects to the gearbox ?

 

[Pete.]

I'm guessing it will actually. Loosen the four bolts and see if the brake wobbles about with the motor. If not the motor should yank out.

 

[dieselsamurai]

Still waiting for a mate to come round and give me a hand with the motor so starting the cleanup/derusting

Started with the 4 jaw



A trip through the electrolisis tank and its looking pretty good



next the 3 jaw , ive never stripped one down before but wasnt too tricky

 

[dieselsamurai]

Made a start on the bedways too and rust was just on the surface mainly I think i got lucky

 

[minimutly]

Oh yea of little faith...
Looks like a gem. Slowly slowly catchee monkee
I'm impressed with your electrolysis - what are you using?

 

[RichardM]

A trip through the electrolisis tank and its looking great

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^^^^^ more appropriate.