- Thread starter Kram
- Start date
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,633
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Guy has an R&D flexible coupling on the prop shaft of his boat but it keeps failing so he is wanting to put a solid spacer in. There is not enough room to feed bolts in that would go right through so I made that up so it will use 12 shorter bolts instead of 6 longer ones.
OD is 5.75" and registers are 3", width is about 2".
Having already destroyed two hydraulic ram rod seals trying alternative methods, I actually used a manual lathe earlier to produce this little widget-
(what looks like two longitude scratches, is actually the reflection of my CNC router gantry!)
Just long enough so that when installed on the rod, I can screw the piston on to keep it in place-
And after a bit head scratching of how to mount it in the current press, since somebody gave away the old press along with the cloverleaf plate, I have the first ram rod assembled-
Now just need to put another new seal in the other gland, and repeat.
(what looks like two longitude scratches, is actually the reflection of my CNC router gantry!)
Just long enough so that when installed on the rod, I can screw the piston on to keep it in place-
And after a bit head scratching of how to mount it in the current press, since somebody gave away the old press along with the cloverleaf plate, I have the first ram rod assembled-
Now just need to put another new seal in the other gland, and repeat.
Martin Hocking
Member
- Messages
- 434
- Location
- Norfolk
Back to basics for me.
I wanted to get my tail stock aligned again on my little M type lathe so I set about making a between centres test bar. I’ve made one before but it was crap and has gone rusty so time to make a new one.
Having become a little irritated with the ‘meh that’ll do approach‘ I often take and the mediocre results that often come about from it. I thought it’s time to take inspiration from the excellent work so often posted here and actually try and make something worthy…emphasise on the try part!
I’ll cut a long story short aside from the obvious goals of a parallel piece with good surface finish. What I was actually looking to do is find my way back to settings that make the little lathe sing again. I haven’t had time to use it very often since I moved and have really struggled to get nice results. So here we go…
Spindle taper wasn’t quite bob on so I used a makeshift centre in the 3 jaw. And a regular knife tool to cut with which worked great on the ends held in a steady but again struggled to get a nice enough surface finish…
Hmmm. Coupled with my John Bull gauge going sticky meant I got a bit lost adjusting the tail stock. I was quite cross at this point.
Anyway I have another tenths gauge which is just for best so I thought if not now then when.
After grinding up a finishing tool with a tiny flat on the end and not having a sticky gauge things were looking up…
The tool is super sharp so I went to the lightest of light cuts and about 200rpm and finally a finish I was happy with. Success!
Now to the meat of the matter. The photo above was 3 tenths different one end to the other. Which I think is close but not quite within Schlesinger limits. Boo!
So I moved the tail stock 1 tenth and took one final cut and it’s nearly 4 tenths going in opposite direction to how I adjusted! Argh!
It’s at this point I stopped, whilst annoyed, I’m a lot closer to alignment then before and I’m a few thou over a useful diameter of 1.100 inches. Before I try again when the mood takes me I’ll get a new dead centre instead of using the live centre which is one of the potential problematic areas.
For now I’ve got a accuratish shiny piece of metal under my bed!
*All measurements on ye olde inches.
I wanted to get my tail stock aligned again on my little M type lathe so I set about making a between centres test bar. I’ve made one before but it was crap and has gone rusty so time to make a new one.
Having become a little irritated with the ‘meh that’ll do approach‘ I often take and the mediocre results that often come about from it. I thought it’s time to take inspiration from the excellent work so often posted here and actually try and make something worthy…emphasise on the try part!
I’ll cut a long story short aside from the obvious goals of a parallel piece with good surface finish. What I was actually looking to do is find my way back to settings that make the little lathe sing again. I haven’t had time to use it very often since I moved and have really struggled to get nice results. So here we go…
Spindle taper wasn’t quite bob on so I used a makeshift centre in the 3 jaw. And a regular knife tool to cut with which worked great on the ends held in a steady but again struggled to get a nice enough surface finish…
Hmmm. Coupled with my John Bull gauge going sticky meant I got a bit lost adjusting the tail stock. I was quite cross at this point.
Anyway I have another tenths gauge which is just for best so I thought if not now then when.
After grinding up a finishing tool with a tiny flat on the end and not having a sticky gauge things were looking up…
The tool is super sharp so I went to the lightest of light cuts and about 200rpm and finally a finish I was happy with. Success!
Now to the meat of the matter. The photo above was 3 tenths different one end to the other. Which I think is close but not quite within Schlesinger limits. Boo!
So I moved the tail stock 1 tenth and took one final cut and it’s nearly 4 tenths going in opposite direction to how I adjusted! Argh!
It’s at this point I stopped, whilst annoyed, I’m a lot closer to alignment then before and I’m a few thou over a useful diameter of 1.100 inches. Before I try again when the mood takes me I’ll get a new dead centre instead of using the live centre which is one of the potential problematic areas.
For now I’ve got a accuratish shiny piece of metal under my bed!
*All measurements on ye olde inches.
dieselsamurai
Too many projects not enough time!
- Messages
- 1,407
- Location
- Hampshire
Been wanting a fixture plate for the mill since i got it and had a nice lump of 30mm ally plate that was looking bored so decided last week to crack on with it
The grid was just to get an idea of what i could fit onto the plate, every thing measured off the DRO really gave ABS and INC a good workout, settled on a 50x50 grid of M12 tapped holes
Power tapping in back gear through ally is so much easier , I found a m12 1st tap that on first cut gave a great fit to a M12 stud plus as the tread isnt fully formed at the bottom stops the stub before it winds through the plate
Almost done just got to mill the back face and sides , pleased with the finish on the front face .
There are counter sunk allen mounting holes and i have dotted 10mm dowel pin locations around to help lining parts up
A lot of swarf though from drilling some over 10ft from the mill !
The grid was just to get an idea of what i could fit onto the plate, every thing measured off the DRO really gave ABS and INC a good workout, settled on a 50x50 grid of M12 tapped holes
Power tapping in back gear through ally is so much easier , I found a m12 1st tap that on first cut gave a great fit to a M12 stud plus as the tread isnt fully formed at the bottom stops the stub before it winds through the plate
Almost done just got to mill the back face and sides , pleased with the finish on the front face .
There are counter sunk allen mounting holes and i have dotted 10mm dowel pin locations around to help lining parts up
A lot of swarf though from drilling some over 10ft from the mill !
dieselsamurai
Too many projects not enough time!
- Messages
- 1,407
- Location
- Hampshire
One of the reasons for making the plate was for this job but its going to be used mostly horizontal as like this for light cuts or drilling.
This is so I can add a Dro to my Mill/drill just got to drill the mounting holes now
Finish is better than it looks but TBH just needs to be parallel
I was debating wether to keep the 8" riser block on the mill but i couldnt have done this job without it
This is so I can add a Dro to my Mill/drill just got to drill the mounting holes now
Finish is better than it looks but TBH just needs to be parallel
I was debating wether to keep the 8" riser block on the mill but i couldnt have done this job without it
dieselsamurai
Too many projects not enough time!
- Messages
- 1,407
- Location
- Hampshire
Finally finished a couple of riser bars for my fixture plate i made , was more a test of my technique and how accurate an old Bridgeport i had . I got to within 0.02mm max in each dimension and for the sort of stuff i do more than close enough
I forgot how tricky it was squaring off a bar in a vice
![20250404_161631[1].jpg](https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/data/attachments/487/487301-44e9004d0d98991130a82da2f31304b0.jpg?hash=KkQLZVEsrG "20250404_161631[1].jpg")
I forgot how tricky it was squaring off a bar in a vice
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,633
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Made another teardrop. this one is heading off to Istanbul tomorrow.
Screwed up on the laser etching not that it matters as when fitted it is not even visible but I really need to get the camera recalibrated after I moved it a while back.
Screwed up on the laser etching not that it matters as when fitted it is not even visible but I really need to get the camera recalibrated after I moved it a while back.
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,633
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
On the DCT bikes you can use the rear brake in a similar fashion as you would a conventional clutch so if offroad it may be advantageous to have both feet down.
Lots of people fit handlebar rear brake lever on the left side but the teardrops available commercially just have the lower hole and when the brake pressure is applied they often flex a bit and leak so I designed up the clamp part to hold it solid to the master cylinder.
Pic of the one on my bike.
hose fitted.
Handlebar master cylinder.
Also made up some reservoir caps for mine.
Left side.
Right side with also a lid for the parking brake. DCT can't be left in gear so needs a parking brake.
Lots of people fit handlebar rear brake lever on the left side but the teardrops available commercially just have the lower hole and when the brake pressure is applied they often flex a bit and leak so I designed up the clamp part to hold it solid to the master cylinder.
Pic of the one on my bike.
hose fitted.
Handlebar master cylinder.
Also made up some reservoir caps for mine.
Left side.
Right side with also a lid for the parking brake. DCT can't be left in gear so needs a parking brake.
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,633
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Yes but it is open to the rear brake, it only closes off when pressing the rear brake pedal.
