- Thread starter Kram
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Dcal
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- Antrim Northern Ireland
I would have thought the handle would be the only thing that would need to be made out of decent stuff.
I keep any old anti roll bar drop links I've replaced.
They are very useful when you need a bit of stronger bar.
Tigman
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Behave Johnny , lolMade some En36b shavings. 8mm drill for scale. 8mm on diameter off per pass. Pity I didn’t have a stronger leadscrew or a Cnc lathe or I could take bigger cuts
Doesnt even feel it. Reckon I try 10mm next time
View attachment 345046 View attachment 345047
Lewis_RX8
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- Scotland
No coolant in first pic and the chips dont look like they got that hot? , I normally see mine go a blue or yellow typeMade some En36b shavings. 8mm drill for scale. 8mm on the diameter taken off per pass. Pity I didn’t have a stronger leadscrew or a Cnc lathe or I could take bigger cuts
Doesnt even feel it. Reckon I try 10mm next time
View attachment 345046 View attachment 345047
slim_boy_fat
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.
My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
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Making some brackets on the Centec. Not finished yet but I get tired.
Rannsachair
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Modified a Myford S7 Leadscrew to suit a Mk1 Myford gearbox.
Fag packet engineering:
The M300 is handy for this:
Was not easy to cut, tried a crobalt tool that was getting a fantastic finish on freecutting steel was tearing the metal off and leaving pock marks. So ended up using carbide. Still nothing like the good finish I get with most steels. Played around with feeds and speeds and had to compromise on this.
Bore and length of M300 were handy:
Not got the Tom Senior wired up so out with the wee Centec and heath Robinson fixturing:
Did the job with a #404 cutter:
Gear keys on fine:
Shaft cut down a bit:
3/8 oilite bush fitted to gearbox casting, fits perfect, though would have prefered a better surface finish:
Job done, starting to get the hang of the M300 controls, quite a change from my wee ML7.
Fag packet engineering:
The M300 is handy for this:
Was not easy to cut, tried a crobalt tool that was getting a fantastic finish on freecutting steel was tearing the metal off and leaving pock marks. So ended up using carbide. Still nothing like the good finish I get with most steels. Played around with feeds and speeds and had to compromise on this.
Bore and length of M300 were handy:
Not got the Tom Senior wired up so out with the wee Centec and heath Robinson fixturing:
Did the job with a #404 cutter:
Gear keys on fine:
Shaft cut down a bit:
3/8 oilite bush fitted to gearbox casting, fits perfect, though would have prefered a better surface finish:
Job done, starting to get the hang of the M300 controls, quite a change from my wee ML7.
Rannsachair
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- 4,388
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- Lochgilphead, Argyll, Republic of Scotland
Leadscrew refitted to my friends lathe and works well:
Gearbox was a rusty £50 bargain from same place I got my Tom Senior Rotary table.
Gearbox was a rusty £50 bargain from same place I got my Tom Senior Rotary table.
Brad93
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- Essex, United Kingdom
-0.014 for a nice shrink fit.
Plus an 18T & 22T sprocket opened up to an inch. Reamer cut a thou oversize which is a ball ache but not the end of the world. They can be set with Loctite.
They were different brand sprockets to the one with the bearing which was made by "Challenge", that cut really nicely and gave a decent finish.
Had to use the reamer as when boring even with super sharp finishing inserts the material was gummy and just tearing not actually shearing off.
A 12T fenner sprocket turned nicely to 19.045mm. There's a bit of wear in the shaft so that will shrink on nicely.
So there you go, Challenge brand or Fenner brand sprockets turn nicely.
Plus an 18T & 22T sprocket opened up to an inch. Reamer cut a thou oversize which is a ball ache but not the end of the world. They can be set with Loctite.
They were different brand sprockets to the one with the bearing which was made by "Challenge", that cut really nicely and gave a decent finish.
Had to use the reamer as when boring even with super sharp finishing inserts the material was gummy and just tearing not actually shearing off.
A 12T fenner sprocket turned nicely to 19.045mm. There's a bit of wear in the shaft so that will shrink on nicely.
So there you go, Challenge brand or Fenner brand sprockets turn nicely.
Brad93
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- Essex, United Kingdom
Dear god. But then the cost of fuel and electric has doubled. Must cost a fortune running their furnaces/auto claves
Rannsachair
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More fag packet engineering, my son gave me a sketch of what he wanted, its for his mother in law, someone has drilled too big a hole for a tap so this will locate on the tap and fill the gap using a flat rubber washer.
Lucky I have a few lumps of stainless:
Lucky I have a few lumps of stainless:
Need more info - what application, power levels, what heat treatment etc?
Exhaust flanges out of 316 stainless 75 x 6mm flat bar, I started with a rough cut octagon, square piece with the corners cut off with an angle grinder but the interupted cut was brutal. The rest I ground close to shape with a 36grit cubitron II sanding disc, my new favourite abrasive. The OD, even with some interupted cut was best made with a positive rake aluminium insert and lighter cuts, it held up better than the stainless specific insert I used for the bores. ID bored in 4 jaw, OD on a mandrel then chucked back up in the 4 jaw to finish the ID.
5 ID and OD done, 2 OD done waiting for ID finishing and then drill all the holes, ordered some 20-40-80 blocks to help with the lay out.
5 ID and OD done, 2 OD done waiting for ID finishing and then drill all the holes, ordered some 20-40-80 blocks to help with the lay out.
It's going to be a 20 tooth 18dp gear for my Southbend lathe. I got greedy and thought I'd make a few at once.
According to the DRO I am about two thirds deep into the cut with about a millimetre to do tomorrow when I hope to finish it. That's if the cutter hasn't gone blunt.
20 tooth is an easy one to do as the dividing head is geared 40 to 1 so two full turns of the handle after every cut to advance. I can't take much of a bite with the mill so those pics represent about four full revolutions and about three hours work. Just as well it's not paid work.
According to the DRO I am about two thirds deep into the cut with about a millimetre to do tomorrow when I hope to finish it. That's if the cutter hasn't gone blunt.
20 tooth is an easy one to do as the dividing head is geared 40 to 1 so two full turns of the handle after every cut to advance. I can't take much of a bite with the mill so those pics represent about four full revolutions and about three hours work. Just as well it's not paid work.
Pete.
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- 14,898
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- Kent, UK
That cutter is deader than dead. If you can't re-sharpen it send it to me and I will do it for you but if you keep using it then it's going to be beyond recovery.
