What are you machining?

[MattH]

Are you using a HAAS ?

Lol, no, I’m using a 4x2’ Cnc router I built another 8 years ago. For most of that time it’s been cutting wood but just starting to switch it over to Ali u til I can get my small mill built.

 

[Munkul]

the major difference is that a CNC machine can push the edge in to the work a lot better than a manual lathe can

Sorry i don't quite follow what you mean here? A big manual lathe can put as much if not more force through the power feeds...

 

[123hotchef]

Plastic. I hate plastic

 

[ukracer]

Starting to rough out some large scale RC car parts:

View attachment 344397View attachment 344398View attachment 344399View attachment 344400View attachment 344401View attachment 344402

What scale mate??

 

[MattH]

What scale mate??

1:5th MCD W5 Short course truck and RR5 buggy.

 

[dan.taylor.1]

I have a snapped 3mm carbide bit occupiying a pilot hole in my welding bench, intended to be a 16mm hole. I might try to melt it out with a stick weld.

Drill round it with an annular bit/mag drill bit.

 

[Tornado220M]

Sorry i don't quite follow what you mean here? A big manual lathe can put as much if not more force through the power feeds...

Yes a big lathe but most lathes are not big and most inserts are oversize for the manual type lathes, manual lathes are designed for HSS or Cobalt mix tools with a sharp edge, except brasses of course, so it will put more strain on the lead screws which are simple threads and not reciprocating ball lead screws designed for heavier loads, they simply are not designed for the blunt edge of a carbide insert.

 

[Tornado220M]

Bull….Servo drives on most Commercial Cnc lathes will not match the same cutting force that a mechanically geared power feed on a comparable size conventional lathe will be capable of producing.

Nice I am referring to the lead screws they are simple collar nuts on a threaded shaft the wear increases 4 fold with a doubling of the load, it's fact based on data derived from manufacturers warranty and repair reports, your lathe may be ok, somebody else's will die a horrible nasty death, then of course there is the gearbox driving the lead screw which is taking as much heavier loading than design intent.

But here is the crunch, I don't give a rats a*se whether you believe me or not as I won't be paying your bill when or indeed if it all goes t*ts up

 

[Maker]

The Z travel on most manual lathes is a rack and pinion, not a leadscrew.

 

[Tornado220M]

I have a snapped 3mm carbide bit occupiying a pilot hole in my welding bench, intended to be a 16mm hole. I might try to melt it out with a stick weld.

Could you blast it through with the stick welder ? have you use of a mag drill ? if you are in Northampton I could bring one to you

 

[MattF]

The Z travel on most manual lathes is a rack and pinion, not a leadscrew.

It's both, but the rack & pinion is the one mainly used for general work.

 

[Tornado220M]

The Z travel on most manual lathes is a rack and pinion, not a leadscrew.

Not the powered traverse that will still be on a leadscrew, but yes manual fir most is rack & pinion

 

[Tornado220M]

Plastic. I hate plastic

View attachment 344438 View attachment 344439 View attachment 344441

More and more people are opting for multi axis "mill turn" lathes for plastic as I am sure you have found out, it really is difficult to "chip", Nitrogen spray is another method, but either is expensive and out of range for most.

 

[Maker]

Not the powered traverse that will still be on a leadscrew, but yes manual fir most is rack & pinion

Nope, power feed is a keyed shaft which drives a pinion (on mine at least), leadscrew is only for threading.

 

[Hood]

Keyed shaft drives the worm box which drives the pinion. Leadscrews are for threading only on most lathes, only very basic lathes will use the leadscrew for power feeds

 

[Munkul]

Yes a big lathe but most lathes are not big and most inserts are oversize for the manual type lathes, manual lathes are designed for HSS or Cobalt mix tools with a sharp edge, except brasses of course, so it will put more strain on the lead screws which are simple threads and not reciprocating ball lead screws designed for heavier loads, they simply are not designed for the blunt edge of a carbide insert.

Wow you talk some rubbish

 

[Lewis_RX8]

Chuck key for a burnnerd 4 jaw , got it with the lathe but only a Chuck key that had a very sloppy fit and fell out it so been meaning to make a better fitting one

 

[martin62]

What grade steel did you use as I need to make one.

 

[Lewis_RX8]

What grade steel did you use as I need to make one.

Think it started life as a hydraulic ram so hopefully alright grade , and for the infrequent use the 4 jaw gets I am sure it would be fine. Would rather wear out the chuck key than the screw I suppose.

 

[My Old Landy]

Think it started life as a hydraulic ram so hopefully alright grade , and for the infrequent use the 4 jaw gets I am sure it would be fine. Would rather wear out the chuck key than the screw I suppose.

I have made them from mild steel before. The material matters not a jot for home use, yours looks good I am making one for mine (only a 1/4" drive) and using silver steel but only as it is what I have in stock from another job.