What are you machining?

[Kram]

What size do you need? I have 38mm² bar which is glass hard all the way through, flame cut from plate, might stick some in furnace see if I can anneal and harden. Had some bits if o1 somewhere.

 

[Dcal]

40 x 70 x 12 would be ideal
It would need to be annealed but I don't mind having a go at that either but since you went to the bother of making the kit.........

 

[Kram]

I think I have some O1 that would fit. Is that two peices? It would need slicing down the middle.

Found an email, but its hiding. Will have a proper look later.

 

[Dcal]

Thanks @Kram I only need one piece and I can cut it down to size.
If you can sort me out, I'll pm to arrange the transfer of beer tokens

 

[Kram]

Found the O1, is a peice 73 x 43 x 25mm ok? I have a use for the 35mm offcut.
It'll be under 1kg, pm me a post label. If it stops raining I'll get it sent tomorrow afternoon.

 

[Dcal]

Found the O1, is a peice 73 x 43 x 25mm ok? I have a use for the 35mm offcut.
It'll be under 1kg, pm me a post label. If it stops raining I'll get it sent tomorrow afternoon.

PM sent

 

[Richiew]

Right. This doesn't look like much, but today I have cut a taper into a piece of bar on the lathe. I've also cut a 3/16ths keyway slot on the mill, centre-drilled and tapped an internal M6 thread and finally cut an m12 nub on the other end to centre the piece for welding or brazing together tomorrow.

This tractor steering wheel has a taper in the centre. I tried measuring the major and minor diameters plus the length of the hole to calculate the taper angle. In practice, I didn't get anywhere close. I looked up common machine tapers on line to get a better idea and found an mt2 taper jammed in the orifice was a reasonably close but still a slack fit. I settled on a 1.4 degree taper and knocked the compound angle around on the lathe after each test cut and fit to get somewhere close.


Looking good at this end.

There's a big chamfer at both sides of the steering wheel boss, hence the apparent gap below.

I've cut off the bent bar handle showing below and I'm looking to braze the spigot onto the round boss. My brazing is neater than my welding. It will make more sense once it is all together.

 

[8ob]

Look the other way @Hood and @Kram, I have been on the lathe

Found a "ripened" bit of 8" diameter bar in the rusty slug bank and spun it up to make a pressing tool for installing some gurt abs rings.

 

[Munkul]

Replacement wheel for my belt grinder drive wheel which cracked. JEI wanted £340 for a new plastic one! Spent £100 on the lump of ally and about 8 hours of my time.

 

[Lewis_RX8]

Replacement wheel for my belt grinder drive wheel which cracked. JEI wanted £340 for a new plastic one! Spent £100 on the lump of ally and about 8 hours of my time.

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I Like the key cutting on the lathe , just a bit of HSS there and back and forth action? .

 

[Munkul]

I Like the key cutting on the lathe , just a bit of HSS there and back and forth action? .

Just some mild steel it's a bit rough on the lathe saddle though even for aluminium, i wouldn't want to cut steel that way.

 

[Lewis_RX8]

A bit of a tweak with the cutting and relief angles would improve that a lot. What you can also do is turn a spigot to go into the bore,then drill a suitable sized hole half in the pulley,half in the spigot. Makes it a lot easier to get the keyway in as alot of material is removed before you start slotting

Ah smart then you only cut the edges into squares rather than remove all material, Bit like when you drill a hole and sit chuffing away with a file to try and square it up.

 

[Hood]

A bit of a tweak with the cutting and relief angles would improve that a lot. What you can also do is turn a spigot to go into the bore,then drill a suitable sized hole half in the pulley,half in the spigot. Makes it a lot easier to get the keyway in as alot of material is removed before you start slotting

I usually drill the hole before I bore the centre, or I used to before I had broaches and BFH

 

[My Old Landy]

I did a bit more on my ER32 chuck. I managed to break a centre drill which is something I have not done in years! I even caught it on video!

 

[Seadog]

I did a bit more on my ER32 chuck. I managed to break a centre drill which is something I have not done in years! I even caught it on video!
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View attachment 344283

I did tge same last week, I can't remember when I last broke one either. Whacked a carbide end mill in the chuck and soon had it sorted.

 

[Kram]

I have a snapped 3mm carbide bit occupiying a pilot hole in my welding bench, intended to be a 16mm hole. I might try to melt it out with a stick weld.

 

[MattH]

Starting to rough out some large scale RC car parts:

 

[MattH]

Made a fixture plate last week:

 

[Tornado220M]

Remember those speed and feed tables are usually generated specifically for CNC production speeds. As Hood says, you don't need speed necessarily to break chips, just an adequate DOC and good feed rate for the insert...

They are for CNC, the major difference is that a CNC machine can push the edge in to the work a lot better than a manual lathe can, also try and get a bigger chip as the bigger the chip the more heat it takes away therefore the less coolant you lose and the more stable the part, better surface finish etc.

 

[Tornado220M]

Made a fixture plate last week:

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Are you using a HAAS ?