Typical stuff I do

  1. stuvy

    stuvy Member

    @anto44 cheers for that mate

    Nearly all of mine are straight 6 with a few inline fours too for good measure
     
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  2. anto44

    anto44 Member

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    Turbo or NA
     
  3. anto44

    anto44 Member

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    Majority of custom stuff is rubbish, made as quickly and easily as possible for maximum profit.
     
  4. ronan

    ronan Forum Supporter

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    Where are you buying the dairy bends here Anto ? Reynolds ?
     
  5. anto44

    anto44 Member

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    I get them off a local engineering company, most of the suppliers here don't seem interested in dealing with small orders.
     
  6. ronan

    ronan Forum Supporter

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    True, which is why i buy most stuff i want mail order from the uk.
     
  7. anto44

    anto44 Member

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    Most of my fittings come from the uk, I buy a lot of pipe off of Ebay. For stuff like a 500mm length of 10mm od 8mm id stainless or aluminium pipe for hose fittings on tanks, it's cheaper than anywhere I can find local. If they haven't got it in stock it's buy a full length and wait for when ever their delivery is or get stuffed.
     
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  8. anto44

    anto44 Member

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    No where local to me could match this.
    Screenshot_20190916-231230_eBay.jpg
    Edit to add, that's free postage to Ireland from the UK, was delivered in 3 days
     
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  9. stuvy

    stuvy Member

    All 50’s to late 70’s

    There all on carbs due to pre 63 fia rules but exhausts are mostly a pair of dual 3-1 then a massive dual silencer for noise regs here and abroad
     
  10. anto44

    anto44 Member

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    You have to be a lot more careful with NA carbed stuff especially, you'll definitely need your carbs retuned after any sort of exhaust modification.
    From the manifold back isn't too bad to do. Are you looking to change exhausts due to needing replacement or to tune the engine? Making a new manifold for a carbed NA is an art form, getting screaming top end redline power is easy, it's getting a good useable power curve with nice midrange that takes a lot of skill
     
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  11. whm_fab

    whm_fab Motorsport fabrication

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    keep up the good work anto.

    ive a tip for you though, to save you time and work - what your doing is no problem, but you seem to be doing an aweful lot of measuring, and cutting the pipe that way will tend to bow the blade, especially starting on a bend which im sure you found was a nightmare.
    do you have a stiff vertical setup for your bandsaw?

    i primarily do a lot of thin wall SS and inconel manifolds for race cars, and with that of course is loads of collectors that ive to cut similar to what you are doing.
    you will get better results, less blade wear and fast by ssetting your bandsaw up vertical, and feeding the tube in from the end of the tube first up to the bend (oposite to the way you are cutting)
    i have simple jigs made up on a feed plate for different diameter tubes, pop them in the jog on the plate, lock it in place, and feed it into the blade from the open end.
    worth thinking about :thumbup:
     
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  12. Munkul Member

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    Cumbria, UK
    Doing it that way is just fine, as long as the pipes are purged properly and aligned correctly. The weld join is almost seamless intermally when done right....
     
  13. anto44

    anto44 Member

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    When I got this saw I built a table for it to run vertical but I could never get it to work well. Used horizontal the saw is perfect, never throws a blade, never breaks a blade blade and cuts perfectly square, used vertically it just wants to jump the blade off constantly. I decided not to mess around any more with trying to get it to run vertical as I had it dialed in as close to perfect as I could for horizontal and didn't want to ruin that. After watching videos of people using your method to do it in a vertical bandsaw I've been on the lookout for one, unfortunately vertical metal cutting bandsaws are like hens teeth in Ireland. I recently missed out on this one.
    Screenshot_20190810-205644_Facebook.jpg
    To stop the blade wandering when starting on a curve like that I'll gently lower the blade down with the saw running and just barely touch the pipe to mark it. Then I take a small square needle file and file a small flat spot where the blade has touched so the blade has a flat spot to start on, then I just guide the blade down by hand very slowly until it's established itself cutting straight. It'd be way easier to cut in from the other end like you do though.
     
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  14. whm_fab

    whm_fab Motorsport fabrication

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    yeah i know, ireland is totally *NO SWEARING ON THIS FORUM* for decent older machine tools, we were not a manufacturing country like the uk. anything like lathes, mills, treadle guillotines, press breaks etc are hard to find here, and when you do they are abused and over priced.

    There is nothing wrong with what you are doing, it just sounds very time and labour intensive - but i guess if you're not doing it all the time as a living there is no problem with that either :)
     
  15. anto44

    anto44 Member

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    Yeah it is very time consuming doing it this way, I stay away from manifolds for this exact reason, I don't have an efficient way of doing this type of joint as of yet. I do plan on getting something more suitable for this type of cut but until then this is the best I can do with what I have
     
  16. anto44

    anto44 Member

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  17. anto44

    anto44 Member

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    Here's the finished piece tacked up ready to be purged and welded out
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  18. anto44

    anto44 Member

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  19. anto44

    anto44 Member

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    The box is a powerflow silencer.
     
  20. anto44

    anto44 Member

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