Stuff you have made today

[Brad93]

Don't bother, they just chip and break if you use them in a manual drill.

Exactly this.
The only thing that does work in a manual drill properly is the dormer jobbers with brazed carbide in the tips.
They are incredible.

 

[Memmeddu]

Exactly this.
The only thing that does work in a manual drill properly is the dormer jobbers with brazed carbide in the tips.
They are incredible.

Any links, I'm curious to see them.
And eventually add them to my collection

 

[RichardM]

Get a carbide masonry bit and regrind the tip. Watch out for the dust.

 

[Brad93]

Any links, I'm curious to see them.
And eventually add them to my collection

Can't find them now, @Arclikeharrypotter had some

 

[Arclikeharrypotter]

Can't find them now, @Arclikeharrypotter had some

I have a few of these, they are good, but really still need a stout pillar drill as a minimum. Coolant a must to!!

 

[Maker]

Any links, I'm curious to see them.
And eventually add them to my collection

These. I buy them at work because they're more tolerant to a cordless drill than solid carbide, but last longer than HSS when drilling GRP.

 

[Blue Chips]

Not a very exciting task, but useful, so I'm posting it anyway.

I've been doing some finish and prep work on the floor of one bay of our new garage, as I hope to install my new scissor-type car lift soon in that bay. I'll finish the other bay after I get the lift installed.

About a week ago I applied two coats of penetrating lithium silicate concrete densifier to the floor of this bay, and today I sealed its contraction grooves, which was quite a tedious job. I tried a number of tools to stuff the 1/4" closed-cell foam backer rod into the grooves, which are not quite 3/16" wide, including a roller-type window screen repair tool, which I had high hopes for, but what ending up working best was a plain old screwdriver. I pushed the backer rod in about 1/4" at a time, which took a while to do 36 feet of grooves, and I set the backer rod about 1/4" below the surface of the concrete to allow room for the sealant. Then I masked the grooves a touch wider than the groove width to make sure that the sealant fully contacted the upper edges, filled the grooves with self-leveling polyurethane sealant, and pulled the tape off before the sealant got too firm. It worked quite well, I think.

Part of prepping the bay for automotive work includes a solvent-based penetrating concrete sealant that is both hydrophobic and oleophobic.

 

[RichardM]

If you have more to do try a wallpaper scraper to ease the foam in.

Pardon our interruption...

 

[Blue Chips]

If you have more to do try a wallpaper scraper to ease the foam in.

I tried a few different scrapers, putty knives, etc., but I found that a sharp-edged tool like a scraper tended to cut the backer rod because the foam rubber (EPDM, I'm guessing) is quite soft, and I had to push fairly hard, since the rough sides of the grooves resisted squeezing the rod in. An old screwdriver with a slightly rounded edge was a pretty good compromise. It was slow work, but it left the backer rod intact so that none of the low-viscosity self-leveling sealant leaked past it.

 

[MattF]

but I found that a sharp-edged tool

Rubbing a tool edge over the concrete a few times will usually dull a blade notably.

 

[Blue Chips]

Rubbing a tool edge over the concrete a few times will usually dull a blade notably.

Agreed, but I found that even an old and very dull scraper/putty knife blade was still narrow enough to cut or damage the soft foam rubber when enough force was applied to squeeze it into the groove. I also tried a well-used and rather dull stone chisel, which sorta, kinda worked, but not as well as the somewhat rounded edge of the old screwdriver, which was just thick enough and dull enough to do the job, and the width was just right for pushing the rod in at about a 45-degree angle across its diameter, as shown in the photo. If I had to install a lot more of these rods, I'd experiment with more tools and different approaches, as I'm sure that there are better ways of installing them. Also, I think closed-cell polyethylene foam backer rods would be easier to install than these soft EPDM rods, but these EPDM rods conform really well to rough surfaces to prevent liquid leakage.

 

[Turbo]

Exactly this.
The only thing that does work in a manual drill properly is the dormer jobbers with brazed carbide in the tips.
They are incredible.

Dormer A002 are a good compromise for use in a hand drill. Hold their edge better than HSS but still flexible enough not to shatter easily.

 

[Arclikeharrypotter]

Dormer A002 are a good compromise for use in a hand drill. Hold their edge better than HSS but still flexible enough not to shatter easily.

Dormer A002 are HSS just Tin coated tip.

 

[Blobber]

That's it I'm broken now, that was hard work getting the shuttering done on me tod
Glad the boys are coming back to level it properly and lay the readymix thursday

 

[addjunkie]

That's it I'm broken now, that was hard work getting the shuttering done on me tod
Glad the boys are coming back to level it properly and lay the readymix thursday
View attachment 499970

Think Id be drilling into the old stuff, and putting some rebar in across the joint!

 

[Onoff]

Think Id be drilling into the old stuff, and putting some rebar in across the joint!

Yep, resin in some bits of stud I do then wrap the end sticking out in duct tape. Allows expansion but limits up / down between the old and new slab. Even better have the bit sticking out plain shank and wrap in Denso tape.

 

[sako243]

Some storage shelving in the blacksmiths barn for random crap like oils, petrol and diesel cans.

 

[Munkul]

Small conveyor in tray section for a food processing company. Hopefully this leads to a lot more work.

 

[Blobber]

Think Id be drilling into the old stuff, and putting some rebar in across the joint!

Yep, resin in some bits of stud I do then wrap the end sticking out in duct tape. Allows expansion but limits up / down between the old and new slab. Even better have the bit sticking out plain shank and wrap in Denso tape.

Its getting mesh and a couple of expansion joints but thats it, were on clay so everything moves depending on the time of year
if it floats away ill mastic the joint

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Spent a few days assembling theses.

The Spaceman is a good kit. But with so many items wrong.
Three finger gloves.
The head space in the helmet is designed to take a Mini figure.

The Mars Rover was so back and forth in the assembly methods.
Items that could be done at a lower lever were built and add later, when fitting them could cause other items being forced off.