Stuff you have made today

[Brad93]

I have the same edition. Send it back for a refund as it doesn’t work. I’ve been trying to find my way out of Cornwall for the past 60 years

there's nothing worth seeing until your 300+miles north anyway

 

[sako243]

Today I made all the freebies from @8ob nice and tidy. First off a drawer of HSS tooling

Then some drills, one of them didn't come from @8ob but a Scot friend of mine. See if you can work out which one...

And finally emptied the bucket of random stuff

 

[Seadog]

You've a mix of HSS and cemented carbide.

 

[Onoff]

Space at my desk / CAD station!

Went and bought some bins to divide the myriad of 3D printing projects:

I need to mod the cheap IKEA desk so the bins can live underneath.

 

[Munkul]

Essentially if you can spin them little bit with a chisel you can save a lot of time using them
Otherwise try something else

I like this point of view, it makes a lot of sense.

 

[BrokenBiker]

I do not trust any make of those forms of stud extractors not to make an already crap job 100 times worse . . . place them somewhere safe now, so safe you forget you have them

I buy cheap ones, design is irrelevant to me as I grind them to a tapered square with sharp corners, then Normalise with a blow torch, harden again and temper in the oven...the only good thing about cheap extractors is they are usually made from easy to harden materials

 

[Memmeddu]

I like this point of view, it makes a lot of sense.

I've had bad experiences with cheaper extractors, but happened to have success too ...
I've learned that you start the easiest way going up with the effort.
You essentially drill it centered, try to get it out using the extractor if you feel it too tight, just change approach because otherwise you'll make things worse.
If it doesn't move you're just driving the extractor further down the stud but being conical shaped you're going to expand the stud like a wall anchor essentially.
It will get even more tight and you'll end up snapping the extractor eventually.
Prior to loose the eternal grace of paradise you should be smart enough to understand that if it breaks into the stud there's really nothing you can do without a milling machine and carbides drills.
So you just follow drilling the pre hole all the way through and then enlarge the diameter up to tap size (example 12mm for M14x2).
Done that you can either try to uncoil the remaining male threads and it should go out like a spring, or most likely being seized up you have to use modified drift and hit the edge of the threads to crush them and break them loose.
Doing that it's better to work on a side only to preserve as much female threads as possible.
It requires a lot of luck honestly because you can't really know where to hit.
Once removed you run a tap and try the bolt if it doesn't fit snug enough you have to drill out everything and apply an helicoil.
Now I've wrote a lot of stuff but it translates in time, work, materials and most importantly money.
Always try the easiest way first.
I've didn't mentioned welding on the studs for a reason...
You cannot always do that.
If the stud is kinda loosen in the hole, it may weld on the threads due to arcing and good luck with that.
It may become hard as hell.
The workpiece might warp or melt or the female threads might even shrink tight on the stud.
Said that trying to drill after you have welded on is a lot harder.

 

[Memmeddu]

Today I made all the freebies from @8ob nice and tidy. First off a drawer of HSS tooling
View attachment 499626

I can see carbide too...
6 out of 10 for the effort

Then some drills, one of them didn't come from @8ob but a Scot friend of mine. See if you can work out which one...
View attachment 499625

Top left corner?
It will destroy chuck jaws you know that?

And finally emptied the bucket of random stuff
View attachment 499627

I'd try to spin the up mentioned drill bit with this ratcheting hand drill...

 

[Munkul]

I've had bad experiences with cheaper extractors, but happened to have success too ...
I've learned that you start the easiest way going up with the effort.
You essentially drill it centered, try to get it out using the extractor if you feel it too tight, just change approach because otherwise you'll make things worse.
If it doesn't move you're just driving the extractor further down the stud but being conical shaped you're going to expand the stud like a wall anchor essentially.
It will get even more tight and you'll end up snapping the extractor eventually.
Prior to loose the eternal grace of paradise you should be smart enough to understand that if it breaks into the stud there's really nothing you can do without a milling machine and carbides drills.
So you just follow drilling the pre hole all the way through and then enlarge the diameter up to tap size (example 12mm for M14x2).
Done that you can either try to uncoil the remaining male threads and it should go out like a spring, or most likely being seized up you have to use modified drift and hit the edge of the threads to crush them and break them loose.
Doing that it's better to work on a side only to preserve as much female threads as possible.
It requires a lot of luck honestly because you can't really know where to hit.
Once removed you run a tap and try the bolt if it doesn't fit snug enough you have to drill out everything and apply an helicoil.
Now I've wrote a lot of stuff but it translates in time, work, materials and most importantly money.
Always try the easiest way first.
I've didn't mentioned welding on the studs for a reason...
You cannot always do that.
If the stud is kinda loosen in the hole, it may weld on the threads due to arcing and good luck with that.
It may become hard as hell.
The workpiece might warp or melt or the female threads might even shrink tight on the stud.
Said that trying to drill after you have welded on is a lot harder.

Another useful thing I've found is left handed drills. Sometimes if you get it just right, the remaining bits of the stud screw themselves out with the drill

 

[brewdexta]

Another useful thing I've found is left handed drills. Sometimes if you get it just right, the remaining bits of the stud screw themselves out with the drill

Did that last week with a mates digger, a rock had snapped a grease nipple off flush. Left handed drill sorted it pronto.

 

[BrokenBiker]

Did that last week with a mates digger, a rock had snapped a grease nipple off flush. Left handed drill sorted it pronto.

you still trying to explain the nipple comment?

i only have 3 left handed drill, 7.5, 9.5 and 11.5 and they only ever get used for attempting to remove broken studs, if it doesnt start to twist out after a few turns i move to a different method as for some reason i absolutely suck at sharpening left hand drills

 

[Jaeger_S2k]

You've a mix of HSS and cemented carbide.

How do you know?

 

[Seadog]

I looked at the picture.

 

[sako243]

You've a mix of HSS and cemented carbide.

I'm aware, unfortunately most of the carbide tips are damaged so therefore it's mostly a drawer of HSS

 

[Memmeddu]

Another useful thing I've found is left handed drills. Sometimes if you get it just right, the remaining bits of the stud screw themselves out with the drill

It's been awhile since I've decided to try getting some but never looked for really.
TBH I've put some of them on Amazon Cart but eventually removed and never put them back again as well as imperial drill bits Wich funny enough they have tap sizes for metric threads .
I'm always trying to get carbide drills but always lost the auctions

 

[Memmeddu]

I'm aware, unfortunately most of the carbide tips are damaged so therefore it's mostly a drawer of HSS

They can be sharpened

 

[Munkul]

I'm always trying to get carbide drills but always lost the auctions

Don't bother, they just chip and break if you use them in a manual drill.

 

[Memmeddu]

Don't bother, they just chip and break if you use them in a manual drill.

Yes they are very brittle, but I don't even use good bits on manual drills for the same reason, cheap ones resharpened are enough and if happens to break one I don't have to cry because I've snapped a 30 euro bit

 

[Memmeddu]

Tested my airsoft gun in my land.
Zeroed my EOTECH
Pretty accurate up to 50ish meters
But I've been surprised when it reaches that

I've used an Android app to calculate distance from a known width.
I've checked out by counting the fence poles and it's pretty accurate
80 meters at 0.89J is a miracle

 

[Brad93]

Don't bother, they just chip and break if you use them in a manual drill.

Exactly this.
The only thing that does work in a manual drill properly is the dormer jobbers with brazed carbide in the tips.
They are incredible.