MattF
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- South Yorkshire
I used a genuine oil filter
Saddo here can still remember the code for the filter I used to order from the dealer.

I used a genuine oil filter
seized arms removed with no real hassle. i have spares and i knew i was going to end up destroying them anyway to get them out of the hub without damaging the hub, so i didn't need to be gentle.got the diff out of my racecar..
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lot of work but went ok, except the 2 sized bushes, same arm both sides, the pinch bolt arm. the bush is seized and the pinch bolt snapped so that will be fun to fix.
i also have the beginnings of a leaking gearbox output seal.
a rew swapped mazda rx8What car is this?
I can still remember a lot of TJ Filters part numbers from when I managed a car spares shop. I haven't been in that game for 23 years.Saddo here can still remember the code for the filter I used to order from the dealer.![]()
yesterday i attempted to media blast the hubs, but the blaster wouldn't play nice. constantly blocking. i've always had this problem leaving me to avoid blasting due to the hassle. thing is, blasting media costs a fair chunk of money, so i've been reusing it. sieving it back into the blast pot and going again. figuring this might be the issue, and still being cost conscious, i did something i really shouldn't do and picked up a bag of kiln dried sand and tried that.seized arms removed with no real hassle. i have spares and i knew i was going to end up destroying them anyway to get them out of the hub without damaging the hub, so i didn't need to be gentle.
once it was off the car, the real challenge started. getting the arms off the hubs.
first i cut through the pin so the arm was out of the way, then i cut through the seized bolt through the slot in the arm.
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then i welded on a nut to the remaining threaded part of the bolt, and tried the impact. it didn't move. judicious application of heat however had it spinning, then i was able to just pull it out.
heat and a punch got the other half out.
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and the cut off pin drifted out.
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easy
next was getting the driveshafts out as i wanted to media blast the backpates and hubs. with the application of a new tool, it came out fine.
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then project creep happened. i wanted to remove the redundant charcoal canister and pipework, and it was a lot easier to do that with the subframe out.....
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and last but not least i cleaned up the differential bra...
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couple of bags of sand later and the subframe looks better...yesterday i attempted to media blast the hubs, but the blaster wouldn't play nice. constantly blocking. i've always had this problem leaving me to avoid blasting due to the hassle. thing is, blasting media costs a fair chunk of money, so i've been reusing it. sieving it back into the blast pot and going again. figuring this might be the issue, and still being cost conscious, i did something i really shouldn't do and picked up a bag of kiln dried sand and tried that.
night and day difference. blasted both hubs with no issues.
this is just a quick pass, not finished yet....
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yes i know, you're not supposed to blast with actual sand due to silicosis. but i was wearing a air fed full face mask so i think ill survive....
couple of bags of sand later and the subframe looks better...
yes i know, you're not supposed to blast with actual sand due to silicosis. but i was wearing a air fed full face mask so i think ill survive....
He did mention before he knew the risks but because the blaster wasn't playing ball is why he tried it (and has a full airfed face mask).Bear in mind that sand is not approved of by Elfin safety for the Silicosis issue.
Ready for an LV advert now!Not fixed but cleaned / detailed.
Son's girlfriend bought this Corsa last night. Decent enough little car but it was grimy, lived near a quarry so covered in dust and loads of tar contamination. A couple of hours washing, claying, DA polishing and waxing has it looking very presentable. Had the seller done this he could have asked another £500 for it.View attachment 488481View attachment 488482
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Indeed, that's what my son saidReady for an LV advert now!