- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
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- 6,371
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- Manchester UK
Well yesterday really, replaced the battery in something and it wouldn't work, cue much muttering and mumbling, I had bought decent batteries after all:
So, I examined it a bit closer:
I suppose they have to put the sticker "Do Not Eat" somewhere. As if getting them out of the packaging isn't enough.
So, I examined it a bit closer:
I suppose they have to put the sticker "Do Not Eat" somewhere. As if getting them out of the packaging isn't enough.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- 20,198
- Location
- Going Away.
From this.
To this.
The colours don't show up well.
Well, it is a welding forum.
addjunkie
Member
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- 13,647
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- Northumberland. Reet oot in the sticks
I discovered a similar problem with the callipers I use when reloading. Tried two batteries both the same….I just putit down to agezimers
qwakers
Member
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- 2,430
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- cornwall, united kingdom
nearly there. just a bit of paint and finish the tailgate.the front of the center two floor beams are finished and all the floor cross braces added, and the tailgate is nearly done...
Dcal
Member
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- 4,079
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- Antrim Northern Ireland
I like that.
Looks like a 3.2 Ranger belt which is 8 foot long and a pig to replace
sako243
Member
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- 4,124
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- My mansion in Wales
That hose routing is fairly standard for Land Rovers although they're normally steel to provide some cooling effects by being clamped to the chassis.
In this instance the 4.6V8 has the power steering pump the opposite side to the relay box and I'm reusing the same fittings from the reservoir to the pump as they're bent neatly to route through a gap between ancilliaries. Running the hose along the front of the rail makes sense to me rather than trying to route it over or under the engine.
qwakers
Member
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- 2,430
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- cornwall, united kingdom
hubs madenearly there. just a bit of paint and finish the tailgate.
and my last two tyres and wheels fitted. the main trailer body will be ready for paint once i clean up the join in the front crossmember...
and once ive made this lot into mesh ill paint the ramp too.
qwakers
Member
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- 2,430
- Location
- cornwall, united kingdom
didn't have enough grey, white or blue to paint the trailer.... i did however have enough if i mixed it together... its a interesting colour, to say the least. its more blue tinted than the picture shows.
even painted the brake disk(the disk is there purely to make the wheel fit, no other purpose.)
and the grating for the ramp half made.
even painted the brake disk(the disk is there purely to make the wheel fit, no other purpose.)
and the grating for the ramp half made.
droopsnoot
Member
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- 1,310
- Location
- South Cheshire, UK
I might have fixed my welder's pencil* today. As I believe is a common thing with them, the lead was sliding out of the body making it useless, so I have now glued it back in. I wonder how long it'll last.
( * that's not a medical complaint, by the way)
( * that's not a medical complaint, by the way)
Mick Annick
Forum Supporter
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- 2,883
- Location
- Burgundy, France (450 miles SE of Somerset)
I have the same problem with the Silver Streak ones, always put a dab of superglue on the end when I get them, seems to work OK.
DennisCA
Member
- Messages
- 2,020
- Location
- Finland
Today I am fitting the Mazda 6 with a new passenger side sill plate / kick plate / rocker panel, not quite sure what the correct english name is. Few years ago I replaced the drivers side with steel I shaped myself, this time I saved myself the bother by going with a purchased repair panel. But the difference in thickness between my DIY replacement and the bought one is striking. We'll see how long this tinfoil lasts...
Removing the fender gave me my first surprise actual rust treatment inside the fender. Incredible.
Even the frame has got rust treatment on it, I wonder if the previous owner did this or if it came from factory like this. The frame is rust free which I did not expect.
Did not save the bottom of the fender from rusting out however. I might have a lead for a new fender, guy I know works at a local shop told me they scrapped a Mazda 6 like mine because of bad crankshaft bearings so I could be getting a new fender if it's in good shape. If the trunk is good I'll get that too. Well... I will if it's cheap...
And now I got access to all of the sill plate, the bottom looks more or less intact but it has zero structural integrity, just rust and mud now. Came off real easily.
But once the rot is cut away the interior structure is basically rust free and covered in wax.
I cut the patch panel down yet oversized and put a layer of zinc primer on the inside.
And that's as far as I've gotten now, gonna treat the car with rust converter and prime it afterwards before I start welding.
Removing the fender gave me my first surprise actual rust treatment inside the fender. Incredible.
Even the frame has got rust treatment on it, I wonder if the previous owner did this or if it came from factory like this. The frame is rust free which I did not expect.
Did not save the bottom of the fender from rusting out however. I might have a lead for a new fender, guy I know works at a local shop told me they scrapped a Mazda 6 like mine because of bad crankshaft bearings so I could be getting a new fender if it's in good shape. If the trunk is good I'll get that too. Well... I will if it's cheap...
And now I got access to all of the sill plate, the bottom looks more or less intact but it has zero structural integrity, just rust and mud now. Came off real easily.
But once the rot is cut away the interior structure is basically rust free and covered in wax.
I cut the patch panel down yet oversized and put a layer of zinc primer on the inside.
And that's as far as I've gotten now, gonna treat the car with rust converter and prime it afterwards before I start welding.
qwakers
Member
- Messages
- 2,430
- Location
- cornwall, united kingdom
didn't have enough grey, white or blue to paint the trailer.... i did however have enough if i mixed it together... its a interesting colour, to say the least. its more blue tinted than the picture shows.
even painted the brake disk(the disk is there purely to make the wheel fit, no other purpose.)
and the grating for the ramp half made.
trailer metalwork is done.
just needs a floor on it and that can wait..... until dad gets fed-up and chucks a sheet of chequer plate on it.
the trailer is for him to move his quad around and for moving the blue quad to the auction house. i don't want it, i don't need it, and i cant store it.
it owes me about £75 including purchase price and materials. it will cost that much again for the floor, so that's on him
its time for it to get out of my workshop
i wonder what it weighs.......
Blobber
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 3,179
- Location
- lincolnshire
How do you get paint to dry in that weather?Today I am fitting the Mazda 6 with a new passenger side sill plate / kick plate / rocker panel, not quite sure what the correct english name is. Few years ago I replaced the drivers side with steel I shaped myself, this time I saved myself the bother by going with a purchased repair panel. But the difference in thickness between my DIY replacement and the bought one is striking. We'll see how long this tinfoil lasts...
Removing the fender gave me my first surprise actual rust treatment inside the fender. Incredible.
Even the frame has got rust treatment on it, I wonder if the previous owner did this or if it came from factory like this. The frame is rust free which I did not expect.
Did not save the bottom of the fender from rusting out however. I might have a lead for a new fender, guy I know works at a local shop told me they scrapped a Mazda 6 like mine because of bad crankshaft bearings so I could be getting a new fender if it's in good shape. If the trunk is good I'll get that too. Well... I will if it's cheap...
And now I got access to all of the sill plate, the bottom looks more or less intact but it has zero structural integrity, just rust and mud now. Came off real easily.
But once the rot is cut away the interior structure is basically rust free and covered in wax.
I cut the patch panel down yet oversized and put a layer of zinc primer on the inside.
And that's as far as I've gotten now, gonna treat the car with rust converter and prime it afterwards before I start welding.
DennisCA
Member
- Messages
- 2,020
- Location
- Finland
How do you get paint to dry in that weather?
I carry it inside my shop once I painted it, where I have a heat pump and keep it 16 C
qwakers
Member
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- 2,430
- Location
- cornwall, united kingdom
final part.trailer metalwork is done.
just needs a floor on it and that can wait..... until dad gets fed-up and chucks a sheet of chequer plate on it.
the trailer is for him to move his quad around and for moving the blue quad to the auction house. i don't want it, i don't need it, and i cant store it.
it owes me about £75 including purchase price and materials. it will cost that much again for the floor, so that's on him
its time for it to get out of my workshop
