Stuff you have fixed today

[droopsnoot]

I might have fixed my welder's pencil* today. As I believe is a common thing with them, the lead was sliding out of the body making it useless, so I have now glued it back in. I wonder how long it'll last.

( * that's not a medical complaint, by the way)

 

[Mick Annick]

I might have fixed my welder's pencil* today. As I believe is a common thing with them, the lead was sliding out of the body making it useless, so I have now glued it back in. I wonder how long it'll last.

( * that's not a medical complaint, by the way)

I have the same problem with the Silver Streak ones, always put a dab of superglue on the end when I get them, seems to work OK.

 

[DennisCA]

Today I am fitting the Mazda 6 with a new passenger side sill plate / kick plate / rocker panel, not quite sure what the correct english name is. Few years ago I replaced the drivers side with steel I shaped myself, this time I saved myself the bother by going with a purchased repair panel. But the difference in thickness between my DIY replacement and the bought one is striking. We'll see how long this tinfoil lasts...

Removing the fender gave me my first surprise actual rust treatment inside the fender. Incredible.

Even the frame has got rust treatment on it, I wonder if the previous owner did this or if it came from factory like this. The frame is rust free which I did not expect.

Did not save the bottom of the fender from rusting out however. I might have a lead for a new fender, guy I know works at a local shop told me they scrapped a Mazda 6 like mine because of bad crankshaft bearings so I could be getting a new fender if it's in good shape. If the trunk is good I'll get that too. Well... I will if it's cheap...

And now I got access to all of the sill plate, the bottom looks more or less intact but it has zero structural integrity, just rust and mud now. Came off real easily.

But once the rot is cut away the interior structure is basically rust free and covered in wax.

I cut the patch panel down yet oversized and put a layer of zinc primer on the inside.

And that's as far as I've gotten now, gonna treat the car with rust converter and prime it afterwards before I start welding.

 

[qwakers]

didn't have enough grey, white or blue to paint the trailer.... i did however have enough if i mixed it together... its a interesting colour, to say the least. its more blue tinted than the picture shows.

even painted the brake disk(the disk is there purely to make the wheel fit, no other purpose.)

and the grating for the ramp half made.

trailer metalwork is done.

just needs a floor on it and that can wait..... until dad gets fed-up and chucks a sheet of chequer plate on it.

the trailer is for him to move his quad around and for moving the blue quad to the auction house. i don't want it, i don't need it, and i cant store it.

it owes me about £75 including purchase price and materials. it will cost that much again for the floor, so that's on him

its time for it to get out of my workshop i wonder what it weighs.......

 

[Blobber]

Today I am fitting the Mazda 6 with a new passenger side sill plate / kick plate / rocker panel, not quite sure what the correct english name is. Few years ago I replaced the drivers side with steel I shaped myself, this time I saved myself the bother by going with a purchased repair panel. But the difference in thickness between my DIY replacement and the bought one is striking. We'll see how long this tinfoil lasts...

Removing the fender gave me my first surprise actual rust treatment inside the fender. Incredible.

Even the frame has got rust treatment on it, I wonder if the previous owner did this or if it came from factory like this. The frame is rust free which I did not expect.

Did not save the bottom of the fender from rusting out however. I might have a lead for a new fender, guy I know works at a local shop told me they scrapped a Mazda 6 like mine because of bad crankshaft bearings so I could be getting a new fender if it's in good shape. If the trunk is good I'll get that too. Well... I will if it's cheap...

And now I got access to all of the sill plate, the bottom looks more or less intact but it has zero structural integrity, just rust and mud now. Came off real easily.

But once the rot is cut away the interior structure is basically rust free and covered in wax.

I cut the patch panel down yet oversized and put a layer of zinc primer on the inside.

And that's as far as I've gotten now, gonna treat the car with rust converter and prime it afterwards before I start welding.

How do you get paint to dry in that weather?

 

[nickk]

After obtaining the epoxy that bullet recommended,my snowboard boot is ready to meet its neighbour and hit the slopes in 3 weeks .

 

[DennisCA]

How do you get paint to dry in that weather?

I carry it inside my shop once I painted it, where I have a heat pump and keep it 16 C

 

[qwakers]

trailer metalwork is done.

just needs a floor on it and that can wait..... until dad gets fed-up and chucks a sheet of chequer plate on it.

the trailer is for him to move his quad around and for moving the blue quad to the auction house. i don't want it, i don't need it, and i cant store it.

it owes me about £75 including purchase price and materials. it will cost that much again for the floor, so that's on him

its time for it to get out of my workshop i wonder what it weighs.......

final part.

 

[Blobber]

Igor it lives! hahahaha!
Been a week of trial and error but its sorted, just got to finish the slashing down for the fencers tomorrow

Even managed to trim around the native Lincolnshire Christmas trees

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

The Ball pein hammer is the item that was fixed.

The head was cleaned up on a bench grinder wire wheel.
The Hole was heavily burred, a rotary file removed them.

The new shaft was hand trimmed to give a snug fit and about 4 to 6mm sticking out.

The wedge should be just a bit smaller than the head hole. It will not go to far, the surplus will be removed.

Head and shaft warmed up and coated with linseed oil.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

2lb Axe head was given to me as the one I brought was broken. This was a good thing, as being a bigger and heavier head it leant itself to be turned into a Kindling axe or a Thatcher's stay cutter.

The Burrs from abuse were removed with a flap disc.

Double wedged head. But due to a defect in the head, there was gaps, not an issue, but it looked untidy.

So a Two Pack Canadian Head glue is used to fill the ugly gaps.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

This was meant to be the head to be used as a Roofers Stay axe. axe, but it is split.

So it was welded up.

The wedge was a off cut of Oak, it was a bit tight to fit.

 

[qwakers]

merc is back in the workshop. mot tester noticed a clicking noise when the nsr wheel rotated. i guessed broken spring. i was right.

but that wasn't all...
what is wrong with this picture?

and the shoe shouldn't move like that...

top shoe retainer is missing

the auto adjusters have seized, the shoes are cracked, and the disks are destroyed on the inside face.

on top of that the hvac fan stopped working. i took it out and it was completely seized. got it free so it worked of a direct feed to the battery, but it still wont work in the car.
£100 later, i have ordered a pair of shoes, rear disks, hvac fan and resistor module.

 

[DennisCA]

Welding and grinding done on the Mazda, gonna have to go over it again and fill in some spots but it's coming along. Did the Fitzee Cut & Butt method for fitting the new part which worked real well.

 

[GRW]

Over last weekend & this, I started and finished installing a 10L Truma Ultrastore lpg/230vac water heater in the camper.
As its a retrofit (original plan was different) I ended up with only one viable site for it... and it was pretty marginal on size which made installing more of a PITA.
Plus - it was where my 6kg gas bottle lived, so needed a new site for that as well. The only viable spot was on the wheel arch box - which meant I needed to come up with a way to fit a gas dropout to the external. I ended up glueing a flexible duct pipe from the arch box lid, trimming it off and then sending it through the van floor in front of the rear wheel. I also sealed all the frame joints with a lip on the front so that if there were a gas leak from a cylinder, it should go where its supposed to.
Getting the height right to clear the van side mouldings and also clear under the sliding door rail, and also avoid having the aperture and flue well clear of a panel seam.... I spent ages being paranoid & measuring multiple times before cutting another big hole in the bodywork.

Packing insulation everywhere, and also running all the pipes in the garage in large rectangular plastic, lidded cable duct meant I could pack some insulation around the pipes (I also added extra insulation all around the body panel and the flue/heater assembly. The manual frost drain I didn't duct out through the floor - as the heater is on a raised platform, I can drain it into a container easily.
New AC feed, DC feed for controls & a ceiling light, an inline gas isolation tap and gas feed line and a cold water Feed isolation tap (& a one-way valve) in the cold feed, then a hit outfeed pipe (all 12mm Speedfit stuff).

The gas and electric heat controls were fitted in the living space dividing wall, accessed by the side of the sofa, and the control cabling routed back to the boiler.

All tested & working as of last night. I also fitted the extra garage/services area light by the hatchway from living area to garage, fixed the dashboard heater controls backlight, and fitted some new cheap door switches & got the cabin doors courtesy light working properly.

 

[DennisCA]

Did a Fitzee style repair, front fender was basically gone at the bottom (pictured earlier), but I fabbed a new piece using a leftover piece from the sill patch panel. Left the old rusty part in place and worked the patch panel until it fit well enough, then I tacked it onto the new panel and did the ole cut & butt (stick around!).

 

[Keith 66]

I just repaired a Dab radio for a mate, power supply socket broke, He opened the radio up & managed to disconnect two sets of power leads & forgot which ones went where. He has mild parkinsons so his unsteady hands damaged the tracks on the power supply circuit board. Could i solder it up?
I warned him about my usual electronics circus where the magic smoke invariably comes out usually accompanied by a loud pop.
But he said have a go got nothing to lose. So i put the magnifier on my head & saw that a tiny speck of black insulation was still attached to one of the broken wire stubs, that told me which were pos & neg (maybe).
Soldered it up & he took it away. Just had a phone call, It works perfectly!
Think we had better buy a lotto ticket!

 

[qwakers]

i. freaking. hate. drum brakes. the merc had a broken spring so i replaced the handbrake shoes disks and fitting kit. i would have just replaced the fitting kit but the disks where knackered and the shoes where heat cracked. i didnt want to replace the pads, so i might have used a da sander to flatten the nearly new pads off and refitted them.....

notwithstanding that they are always a pain, the merc ones are harder than necessary due to the drive hub being in the way. the last set i did was a kia sorento, much easier, before that was a mk1 clio, dead easy. i still hate them though

once i figured the knack out, i got the nearside together and adjusted up in about a hour.

the drivers side on the other hand, was not so easy. first someone had used permanent loctite on the brake caliper bolts, so they took way too much effort to undo. then the disk wouldn't come off due to the massive lip on drum. then the expander had seized (explains the lip) so once i got them together, even adjusted all the way off i couldn't get the disk on over the shoes. once i worked out what was going on i took the shoes back off, which was a pain, and used some channel lock pliers and wd40 to force it closed to free it up. back together and adjusted and its fine..

heater fan is working too, only needed the motor so will send the module back. all is well in the merc world again...

 

[Tigman]

Fixed this gate into place last couple of days!

 

[minimutly]

View attachment 484283

The Ball pein hammer is the item that was fixed.


View attachment 484284

The head was cleaned up on a bench grinder wire wheel.
The Hole was heavily burred, a rotary file removed them.


View attachment 484286

The new shaft was hand trimmed to give a snug fit and about 4 to 6mm sticking out.



View attachment 484289


The wedge should be just a bit smaller than the head hole. It will not go to far, the surplus will be removed.





View attachment 484290

Head and shaft warmed up and coated with linseed oil.

Congratulations on calling it by the correct name, usually called ball "peen"...
I've started re-handelling my late father's assorted hammers - everything from ball pein's like this to sledgehammers, all with his initials stamped on them...