- Thread starter qwakers
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JMS1972
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- 1,205
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- NW Leicestershire, UK
If anyone wants more info I made a shaky video on the repair. It has an overview of the PCB main components at the end for future reference.The Sino SDS6-3V DRO on my lathe has had an intermittent fault where it would lose a column of digits. Yesterday it turned into a continuous fault so it was time to have a look at it.
View attachment 439006
I managed to find a data sheet for the dual 7 Segment display modules. They used pin 13 and 14 for the common pin on each side.
Got the scope out and found the signal on the dead column (pin 14) to be a distorted version of the signal on all the ithe columns.
Looking at the board I wasn't sure where to go.
View attachment 439008
Eventually I figured out the three big chips on the left (Darlington transistor drivers) were handling the segments for x,y,z and there where a bunch more on the right which were for the alphanumeric display on the right. So what was handling the columns?
View attachment 439007
I eventually noticed this row of transistors and probed the tabs (output) and found the column signal. Transistor 4 had the same dodgy signal I had found before
Signal on the base matched the others.
So after a bit of hard probing
The column started working again - it was a dodgy dry joint!
I've reflowed all of the transistors and now it's working fine.
Really pleased as it's saved me at least 150 quids, and very much at the limit of what I could achieve with no schematic.
qwakers
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- cornwall, united kingdom
I forgot to post this one here, this was written mid February.
car is back in the workshop today for the first time this year.
and I've finally fixed the dash! its only been a year!
after a long consult with aim they told me that you don't set the dash to link g4 in can settings, because reasons. you need to set it as per in the pics.
link side...
and aim side...
it works. woohoo!
I'm also 9/10th of the way to setting up the fuel level sensor too... i have a reading, just gotta set the mv settings, so I need to drain the tank and start filling it up 5l at a time until full. it currently reads -25l :lol:
car is back in the workshop today for the first time this year.
and I've finally fixed the dash! its only been a year!
after a long consult with aim they told me that you don't set the dash to link g4 in can settings, because reasons. you need to set it as per in the pics.
link side...
and aim side...
it works. woohoo!
I'm also 9/10th of the way to setting up the fuel level sensor too... i have a reading, just gotta set the mv settings, so I need to drain the tank and start filling it up 5l at a time until full. it currently reads -25l :lol:
northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
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- 6,492
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- Manchester UK
Because it's a welding forum, bit of Tiggying, the mag tube on one of the rifles had split and really bent, I straightened it out close as I could and made a close fitting copper plug as backing. Didn't take a pic of the actual weld but I hand filed it back to keep it as thick as possible:
You can see where it parted company with itself, bit of cold blue and voila:
It'll be just fine whilst waiting for a replacement (which will take forever no doubt).
You can see where it parted company with itself, bit of cold blue and voila:
It'll be just fine whilst waiting for a replacement (which will take forever no doubt).
lotus_esprit_s1
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- 849
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- UK
Gave my Thor hammers a new lease of life with new replacement handles from the Thor factory; the hammer on the left is over seventy years old, they still supply the handle for it.
selectedgrub
Member
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- 3,467
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- New Zealand
I think you spent money on the wrong ends
lotus_esprit_s1
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- 849
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- UK
They are just worn in
Melvyn Best
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- 1,834
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- Cambridge
About the only thing I use my copper hammer for these days is tapping a CV joint out from a hub
Today I got around to fixing the wiper on my wifes MG6 - they would mostly only work on fast speed, would stop halfway up the screen, and the auto sensor/intermittent hardly worked at all.
Had to strip the motor as well as the switch/cover. I had a suspicion there might be an issue with the controller, but on refitting the whole thing I was please to see it working well. Hopefully my sealing job will have stopped further ingress...
No pics, who wants to see a bloomin wiper motor..
Had to strip the motor as well as the switch/cover. I had a suspicion there might be an issue with the controller, but on refitting the whole thing I was please to see it working well. Hopefully my sealing job will have stopped further ingress...
No pics, who wants to see a bloomin wiper motor..
Beeezer
Things are really chaining for the better….
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- 851
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- Northampton
You didn’t see the state of the andles
Farside
Badly Welded Man
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- Ireland
Fork 'andles? There's only three.
I forgot to post this one here, this was written mid February.
car is back in the workshop today for the first time this year.
and I've finally fixed the dash! its only been a year!
after a long consult with aim they told me that you don't set the dash to link g4 in can settings, because reasons. you need to set it as per in the pics.
link side...
and aim side...
it works. woohoo!
I'm also 9/10th of the way to setting up the fuel level sensor too... i have a reading, just gotta set the mv settings, so I need to drain the tank and start filling it up 5l at a time until full. it currently reads -25l :lol:
Good work, I'm on with fitting a Windows Tablet to run TunerStudio full time in the MK Golf, save carting the laptop about.
I've decided to take the head unit out so mulling over fitting the 8" or 12" tablets.
Was on with the RD250 again, very stiff to turn the handle bars and couldn't adjust them.
You do have to wonder what goes on in people's head's sometimes, took it to bits and there's no bloomin bearing race in it!.
Ordered a Taper Roller bearing conversion kit.
Plus side it runs OK, oil pump fitted and blead up fine and engine sounds OK..
You do have to wonder what goes on in people's head's sometimes, took it to bits and there's no bloomin bearing race in it!.
Ordered a Taper Roller bearing conversion kit.
Plus side it runs OK, oil pump fitted and blead up fine and engine sounds OK..
I've got some good size oak to cut up this week so I thought I would get the old jonsereds going. It's been over a year since I've used it but filled the fuel removed the air filter a thimble of fuel into the carb and away she went. Its a heavy lump but still got serious power.
The cleaners probably pulled the plug out when they were vacuuming.
Blue Chips
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- 728
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- Maine, USA
Got this old Stanley No. 191 rabbet plane the other day and decided to do a little restoration work on it. It was already in fairly good shape, so it was a simple restoration.
It was missing the depth stop/gauge, but I got one from a guy on eBay.
I bead blasted a few parts and sharpened the blade:
Painted the body and cap/clamp, burnished some surfaces, blued a couple of parts, trued the bottom/sole a bit, and reassembled it.
Done, and ready to make shavings.
It was missing the depth stop/gauge, but I got one from a guy on eBay.
I bead blasted a few parts and sharpened the blade:
Painted the body and cap/clamp, burnished some surfaces, blued a couple of parts, trued the bottom/sole a bit, and reassembled it.
Done, and ready to make shavings.
Last edited:
Anguz
Forum Supporter
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- 1,967
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- Northamptonshire
Acquired 2 security camera with smashed glass
Managed to get to the glass and remove. I used my 3d printer bed to soften the glue
Made an ad hoc diamond bench grinder
Cut 1mm off the edge of a microscope slide and cut to length
Tigersealed in
Managed to get to the glass and remove. I used my 3d printer bed to soften the glue
Made an ad hoc diamond bench grinder
Cut 1mm off the edge of a microscope slide and cut to length
Tigersealed in
