- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
Carrying on knocking over electrical gremlins on my JCB 3CX it was the turn of the back light for the dash clock - the bulb was blown and I'd ordered a replacement.
The 'special' bulb for the clock back light arrived - odd little things that have wings that poke through a hole in a printed circuit board, and ramps on the wings tighten the connection - well they do when the ramp has been re-bent !
However back light still not working (though original bulb WAS blown and new one IS OK
) - time for more investigations. Metering the four pole connector on the wiring loom, Ground was where I expected it, 12 volt permanent was there for the clock itself, as was the feed for when the ignition is on, and separately the feed for when the side lights are on for the clock back light. Problem MUST be within the clock module itself.
Time for a bit of brain surgery. Usual 'popping plastic clips' dismantling got me inside. Sure enough as I previously postulated, the feeds from the Ignition and the Side Lights each go straight to their own isolating diode, with their cathodes being commoned and going to one side of the light bulb. I would expect the other side of the bulb to be taken directly to Ground - but no, no sign of any connection to it - certainly none to anything that was accessible.
I should point out that this clock module is a 'sandwich ' of two PCBs separated by riveted and soldered spacers that would be virtually impossible to undo without damaging other bits.
Fortunately I was able to poke a fine tipped soldering iron in between the two PCB's and put a 'salvage link' from a bit of track from the o/c side of the bulb to the rear of the Ground input pin.
. . . let there be light . . . and there was, both with just the side lights, and also with the ignition being on.
Just one more gremlin knocked on the head - getting there
The 'special' bulb for the clock back light arrived - odd little things that have wings that poke through a hole in a printed circuit board, and ramps on the wings tighten the connection - well they do when the ramp has been re-bent !
However back light still not working (though original bulb WAS blown and new one IS OK
Time for a bit of brain surgery. Usual 'popping plastic clips' dismantling got me inside. Sure enough as I previously postulated, the feeds from the Ignition and the Side Lights each go straight to their own isolating diode, with their cathodes being commoned and going to one side of the light bulb. I would expect the other side of the bulb to be taken directly to Ground - but no, no sign of any connection to it - certainly none to anything that was accessible.
I should point out that this clock module is a 'sandwich ' of two PCBs separated by riveted and soldered spacers that would be virtually impossible to undo without damaging other bits.
Fortunately I was able to poke a fine tipped soldering iron in between the two PCB's and put a 'salvage link' from a bit of track from the o/c side of the bulb to the rear of the Ground input pin.
. . . let there be light . . . and there was, both with just the side lights, and also with the ignition being on.
Just one more gremlin knocked on the head - getting there
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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It was, yes.
Now it is beer money.
This years been heavy on grinder failures,2 beyond repair,all 3 hitachis needed brushes within 2 weeks!?
Then one of them got noisy in the gearbox and another stopped working,all about 3 months later,so made one from two,replaced the bevel gear plus bearing and the armature.
Then one of them got noisy in the gearbox and another stopped working,all about 3 months later,so made one from two,replaced the bevel gear plus bearing and the armature.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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The glass tube was loose in the houseing.
Striped it down and removed the old lonseed putty and Fullers earth mix.
Got some fresh ne stuff and refitted the glass tube and set it up.
That was a real pain.
This coffee grinder was in good condition. But it was very "notchy", so I took it to bits to find out why.
The issue was the fixed part of the cutter. There was 12 burrs.
Nibed them off with a small slip stone.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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Going back to my waste pipe posts.
Went and got a complete set up .... pop up plug, detachable bulb trap , new pipe elbow and 45 % angles in solvent weld plastic & 3 mtr. of pipe.
Once I'd managed to get the old pipe out that had been foam sealed in and siliconed in on the outside (The silicon has shrunk to give a 5 mm gap all-round the pipe at the outside wall).
I cleaned all the crud out the hole through the wall with the trusty VAX wet & dry and slipped the new pipe in from the outside in the bathroom. It was a good half inch out on the inside hole. Did a bit of chain drilling from the outside to drop the hole half an inch , nearly got it right but it got dark, so a quick reconnect and a bucket under the sink in case it leaks from now till I get back to it in the morning.
After slipping a cut 24 inch length of the new pipe in from the outside it was still way out of sensible alignment. to the bowls compression joint . . It's lightly tightened at the minute and not dripping inside the wetroom but I'll have to do another drilling out exercise tomorrow to allow the waste pipe to run downhill as it passes thorough tthe wall instead of having it pointing up to the ceiling & to the left ot the vertical axis for if we get a prplonged hard frost the now half filled waste pipe might just freeze solid within the wall .
What did annoy me is that the outside hole into the cavity is a 50 mm hole and it's still too high at the bottom even after me chain drilling out 12 mm from the bottom.
So, it looks like I'll be taking the outer hole down the wall another 10 mm tomorrow morning using an extra-long 6 mm masonry drill to chain drill it then bust it out , clean the hole & do a trial fit ,
If Ok glue it up and then start sorting out the unwanted gaps with internally foam , rubble & quickset & some waterproof cement stippled on as render.
If the " Plumber " had used a cut square off cut of board as a right angle guide he could have put a long 8 mm right through the wall than core drilled in from each side,
I suspect he was dyslexic / hung over and /or drugged up , stupid & tried to use a tape measure and sprit level through the window to make his drilling marks instead, as I know he didn't have any extensions for his SDS drill.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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I got this today, tidy small hammour. A brass and a whit nylon head.
Head off. It was only fixed by a tin plated brass screw.
Shaft was dressed back to look better. There isa Broard Arrow stamp on the head and the brass face.
Looks like a small arms hammer.
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The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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This vice has been a pain from day one.
I got it and it was put work. It then jammed.
Than gave me a chance to tart it up a bit.
The crinkle paint didn't.
Then the base jammed.
So I took it into hands and striped it.
There is lots of small damage to it.
The damage to the moving jaw is easy to spot. I had to dress it out with oil stones. Then grinding paste on a cloth.
The base in which it sat was distoted.
It was bum clencing as I heated it up and brought it back to true.
In paint and the image shows the clamping lugs are now level and in line.
During the warming and slow cooling had thiis oily liquid oozzzing out of the casting.
So I baked it and collected 10cc of this fluid. It brunt well.
After 3 hours it stoped leaking.
Painted, the marks you see on the moving jaw looks worse than they are. Most are the whittness marks from the greasse I used in the assembly.
indy4x
Forum Supporter
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- Pontypool, South Wales. UK
Gone up a few tyre sizes on the Jeep
Which means the spare wheel retainer no longer fits, straightened out the original clamp rod and moved the bend further along. Turned up a short threaded joiner and chopped the head off a bolt to extend it
New spare just fits, also had to modify the dog guard to move that forward, no pictures of that tho
New tyres are 265/75x16, these will do for now, ultimately its going to have 33" dia tyres, not sure how I'm going to fit 33" tyre in there though
Which means the spare wheel retainer no longer fits, straightened out the original clamp rod and moved the bend further along. Turned up a short threaded joiner and chopped the head off a bolt to extend it
New spare just fits, also had to modify the dog guard to move that forward, no pictures of that tho
New tyres are 265/75x16, these will do for now, ultimately its going to have 33" dia tyres, not sure how I'm going to fit 33" tyre in there though
Another Honda PCX in today blowing Fuel Injection Fuse.
Seen it before (luckily for customer as first one took 6 hours or more to track down!).
Ironically it's the PCM loom guide that causes all the problems, time to chop it off and a bit of belt and braces with some radiator pipe and edge protector.
Probably 5th one now with same fault..
Seen it before (luckily for customer as first one took 6 hours or more to track down!).
Ironically it's the PCM loom guide that causes all the problems, time to chop it off and a bit of belt and braces with some radiator pipe and edge protector.
Probably 5th one now with same fault..
Why?
MattF
Forum Supporter
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- South Yorkshire
Why?
Probably off-roading.
Blobber
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- lincolnshire
I love little wins like this especially when it saves you time fault finding on the next one!
redlig
Member
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- wiltshire uk
That Sharpie could do with a bit tlc.
Bobupndown
What could possibly go wrong?
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A £47 xenon headlight bulb! 
Can't really complain its nearly 10 years old, just scary price compared to halogen.
Can't really complain its nearly 10 years old, just scary price compared to halogen.
Blobber
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Fixing the lack of light in the Barn/stores, only taken 6 years but hey life gets in the way! thats some of the conduit up just got to find my stash of singles now! looks like the tape measure might have been playing up with the saddle spacings 
First one was a nightmare!, I believe there is at least 10 components hanging off the Fuel Injection fuse.
Problem seems to be the PCM bracket only mounts in 1 place, so I presume it vibrates which cuts though the loom eventually.
A second mounting point for PCM and it would never be an issue.
Honda made it worse fitting the loom guide, would have been better off without it really!.
