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The_Yellow_Ardvark
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A few weeks ago I was asked if I could fix an old Singer sewing machine. It had been in the family for a long time.
The family wanted it fixed/repaired so that Granny, who is in care home could have some memories of it.
The case was in a bad way.
99% complete.
It had survived WW2 and a house being converted into rubble. Then a house being burnt as well. All in The Bristol blitz.
Speaking with her, she was a mine of information on history and what she did. Just a shame her hips are, I quote;
"Gone to burgery and not come back"
The machine was sent to a local place I know. It needed a service and a few parts. Alas, the important plate is on back order.
The damge is hidden under years of dirt, wax, snoot and who knows what else.
A early clean and the wood was looking good.
Butchering a old switch unit gave me some good metal I could shape into scrapers and get the crud out.
The cleaning showed that the items and wood on show were treated and finished well. Parts out of site were just finished.
During my research into this and othe machines I found out that you could pay extra and have those items finished.
But you were taxed on that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The family wanted it fixed/repaired so that Granny, who is in care home could have some memories of it.
The case was in a bad way.
99% complete.
It had survived WW2 and a house being converted into rubble. Then a house being burnt as well. All in The Bristol blitz.
Speaking with her, she was a mine of information on history and what she did. Just a shame her hips are, I quote;
"Gone to burgery and not come back"
The machine was sent to a local place I know. It needed a service and a few parts. Alas, the important plate is on back order.
The damge is hidden under years of dirt, wax, snoot and who knows what else.
A early clean and the wood was looking good.
Butchering a old switch unit gave me some good metal I could shape into scrapers and get the crud out.
The cleaning showed that the items and wood on show were treated and finished well. Parts out of site were just finished.
During my research into this and othe machines I found out that you could pay extra and have those items finished.
But you were taxed on that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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The machine arrived back last night, alas with out some items.
They are on back order. As the ones in stock do not fit this machine.
This is the fire damage I am leaving. It is part of the history. The lid is original. It is what was listed as:
Tiger Ply wood lid, It was an extra.
The brown you see on the bobbin winder is copper under the chrome finish.
All the fixings are as it came with.
You can see a missing item.
I am still appling a wax to the wood and it is getting better all the time.
The machine itself
1902
Made between January and June. Supplied with the foillowing
Tiger Pla top plate, factory item to be removed and credit to.
2 English service kits.
4 shutteles, complete.
Single Pole for reels, but 2 extra felt pads. One red and one blue.
4 additional indian rubber base feet.
Full payment on collection, in persons from the Singer approved English outlet.
They are on back order. As the ones in stock do not fit this machine.
This is the fire damage I am leaving. It is part of the history. The lid is original. It is what was listed as:
Tiger Ply wood lid, It was an extra.
The brown you see on the bobbin winder is copper under the chrome finish.
All the fixings are as it came with.
You can see a missing item.
I am still appling a wax to the wood and it is getting better all the time.
The machine itself
1902
Made between January and June. Supplied with the foillowing
Tiger Pla top plate, factory item to be removed and credit to.
2 English service kits.
4 shutteles, complete.
Single Pole for reels, but 2 extra felt pads. One red and one blue.
4 additional indian rubber base feet.
Full payment on collection, in persons from the Singer approved English outlet.
Last edited:
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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The machine was a Scotish assembled one, to a English order. With parts sent in kit form.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Gifted to me today, from a neighbour down the road. He has no need of it. It has bean wrteen of at his place of work. As some one had fitted a non OE plau. With out the correct H&S paper work.
Oh yes the disc nuts are also seized.
Ooops.
So a new rubber plug, the disc removed and a PAT carried out.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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Your pictures gave me an instant pleasurable flashback to when I was 4 to 15 yrs old . Thanks
I used to love the smell of the oil and fluff in the base of Mums 1920's Singer that was in a mock crocodile skin covered thin plywood suit case, I spent numerous minutes turning the handle for her as she made clothes for us kids or turned well-worn flannelette sheets into serviceable sheets again by sowing up the sides to join them as a single sheet again after cutting then vertically in half .
After I was just turned 15 yrs. old my dad who originally was an apprenticed tailor in the 1930's showed me how to use the machine properly after we'd put a foot controlled electric motor kit on it .
Dad helped me make my own jeans and trousers on it when I came home on my first leave from my apprentice school so we could go carp fishing with him and my big bro who also managed to get some leave from his unit.at the same time.
I'd not got any civi clothes left that fitted me as I'd grown several inches taller and gone from a skinny 7.5 stone weakling to 8 stone 2 pounds whilst at the army apprentice school.
I still make things these days but have a posh multifunction machine & an overlocker machine , that beautiful old Singer went to the scrappies years ago along with a green rough hammer painted Singer embossed box metal box of very useful high quality nickel-plated attachments.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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This SS rake was gifted to me.
It is a good sturdy design and I hatched a plan to make up a "How To Do" list for MIS on how to fix tools like this.
The issues here are.
Rivet still in place.
Rusted remains of a steel handle.
So I fired up the paraffin stove, set a brew going and got to work.
No power tools.
The rivet was drilled out and the holes cleaned up.
Then with a file I worked it untill I had filled enough away to allow be the split the old handle and curl the metal over.
Warming it up on the stove oil was applied and it was left.
A pair of "Mole Grips" were used and it came out with very little struggle.
Using a "Surform" I shaped the new handle to fit. Always use the Surform in the direction of the handle. EG go down to taper it. Do dot try and rotate the handle and trim it that way. It will end upp a poor fit.
This stage you are looking for a tight fit, but one that will allow the head to be removed with a gentle blow of a mallet.
Warm the socket until spit bubbles of and fit th handle.
place the head onto the handle. Then tap it down.
Allow to cool and fit a screw.
Stain and wax the handle. Wax/oil the head and you are good to go.
It is a good sturdy design and I hatched a plan to make up a "How To Do" list for MIS on how to fix tools like this.
The issues here are.
Rivet still in place.
Rusted remains of a steel handle.
So I fired up the paraffin stove, set a brew going and got to work.
No power tools.
The rivet was drilled out and the holes cleaned up.
Then with a file I worked it untill I had filled enough away to allow be the split the old handle and curl the metal over.
Warming it up on the stove oil was applied and it was left.
A pair of "Mole Grips" were used and it came out with very little struggle.
Using a "Surform" I shaped the new handle to fit. Always use the Surform in the direction of the handle. EG go down to taper it. Do dot try and rotate the handle and trim it that way. It will end upp a poor fit.
This stage you are looking for a tight fit, but one that will allow the head to be removed with a gentle blow of a mallet.
Warm the socket until spit bubbles of and fit th handle.
place the head onto the handle. Then tap it down.
Allow to cool and fit a screw.
Stain and wax the handle. Wax/oil the head and you are good to go.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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This set of crimps, as I have been informed, by good members here. (safe me asking in a post) came my way yesterday.
They are rusty, as can be seen. But what this does not show is the Wing nuts are seized on. The plain nuts are glued on.
Please ignore the spinning steam engine.
After a strong talking too, some TLC and a hot spanner they were apart.
I mean a hot spanner. I knwo, from experiance, that any direct heat will leave a colour bloome on the fixings. So a 2lb copper soldering was used to free the Wing Nuts.
Then a red old old bent spanner was applied to the nuts. They soon came off.
A few hours in citric acid had the rust off.
Rinisng the cirtic acis off, gets the metal dry and warm for the next stage.
A finsish with oil and wax.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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I've often used a sooty flame to blacken the shaped wood to get a trial fit in the socket and carefully remove the high spots for a really good fit , using a smear of epoxy on the cleaned off taper & in the cleaned out socket to get it to a surgeon's rubber glove fit then drill in from either side for the rivet hole as most of the rivets tend to be set in a countersunk hole ( Unless they are dome head rivets )
Ove the years I've found that removing the rivet was best done most of the time by drilling & pulling bits the wood out to get to the rivet and further back , then using a taped-up handle on a hacksaw blade so it cuts on pull only, pull saw the rivet in half inside the socket and wiggle it out towards the outside rather than dot punch the heads and try to drill them out from the outside. , incase your drill bit slips and you take out good metal which usually ends up enlarging the rivet hole on one side.
Sometimes when my diabetic's hands play up (a lot recently) I've put a " Best fit " long nail or cross point screwdriver through the hole in the taped up handle or a big split ring so it's easier to grasp to pull saw.
Don't try to use a hacksaw blade taped handle or un-taped on push as they frequently break, and you end up getting some serious damage & /or cuts to your cutting hand / knuckles etc. (
Guess how I discovered that 
) ,
Ove the years I've found that removing the rivet was best done most of the time by drilling & pulling bits the wood out to get to the rivet and further back , then using a taped-up handle on a hacksaw blade so it cuts on pull only, pull saw the rivet in half inside the socket and wiggle it out towards the outside rather than dot punch the heads and try to drill them out from the outside. , incase your drill bit slips and you take out good metal which usually ends up enlarging the rivet hole on one side.
Sometimes when my diabetic's hands play up (a lot recently) I've put a " Best fit " long nail or cross point screwdriver through the hole in the taped up handle or a big split ring so it's easier to grasp to pull saw.
Don't try to use a hacksaw blade taped handle or un-taped on push as they frequently break, and you end up getting some serious damage & /or cuts to your cutting hand / knuckles etc. (
Guess how I discovered that ) ,
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
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Petrol or oil pipe ferrule crimp.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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@The_Yellow_Ardvark
You could call it a crimp, this is what it's for:
Tech Tip: How To Make A Custom Fuel Line Assembly
On today's Tech Tip post Kyle & Curtis of CBS will show you how to make your own custom fuel line assembly for your classic British motorcycle. Making your own fuel line assembly is easy and affordable that will give you an original factory look. Nothing looks better than a round crimp ferrule...www.classicbritishspares.com
Pedigree?
Yes.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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mtt.tr
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My boiler riello burner based boiler decided to kick the bucket.
Test the photocell, motor, motor feedback, solenoid coil. Nothing
Confirm 230v and demand signal = fine.
Order a new control box with next day delivery.
The next day, DPD "we missed you" wtf, Mrs is at home waiting for it to arrive.
Then it arrives hours past the 13:00 prepaid slot, but it's arrived thank goodness.
Right last call out sorted get home fix boiler.
No drive an hour to reset a fuse 2hrs to home, ahhhhh!!!! (Another pot noodle dinner)
Talk the Mrs through installing new control box, she got 80% there but was unsure about the electrodes. (Fair play she's a project manager and business analyst not a greasy dipstick thats my title )
Get home at 11:45 plug new one in and bless the hot water.
3days no heating or hot water not pleasant.
The green glow of hope.
Test the photocell, motor, motor feedback, solenoid coil. Nothing
Confirm 230v and demand signal = fine.
Order a new control box with next day delivery.
The next day, DPD "we missed you" wtf, Mrs is at home waiting for it to arrive.
Then it arrives hours past the 13:00 prepaid slot, but it's arrived thank goodness.
Right last call out sorted get home fix boiler.
No drive an hour to reset a fuse 2hrs to home, ahhhhh!!!! (Another pot noodle dinner)
Talk the Mrs through installing new control box, she got 80% there but was unsure about the electrodes. (Fair play she's a project manager and business analyst not a greasy dipstick thats my title )
Get home at 11:45 plug new one in and bless the hot water.
3days no heating or hot water not pleasant.
The green glow of hope.
My Riello burner has been giving us grief- this is the boiler for our two holiday cottages on the farm. Intermittently boiler would stop and need the burner reset button pressing. Eventually got to the point it needed more and more presses to start.
a pain at the time but turned out to be just the motor capacitor. Two minute fix.
a pain at the time but turned out to be just the motor capacitor. Two minute fix.
mtt.tr
Member
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Luckily they are pretty simple, this would kick the motor over then stop. Then start flashing all sorts of codes
