8ob
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- Nescient in the vale
- Thread starter qwakers
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sako243
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- My mansion in Wales
You didn't expect me to?You kept the loops of chain tie downs then Ed
Bob
All I've done so far is rip out the old floor and tailgate and free up the brake cylinder.
One of the boxes that was on the cherry picker is the perfect size to sit in the drawbar so I may have to relocate the bar at the front of the trailer back an inch or make a plate to sit under the box. Will be handy for keeping straps etc.
Chris @ CLH Trailers did give it a going over for me free of charge and was impressed by the design but uses mostly Austrian parts. He said chances of getting replacement bits before Brexit were slim, now not a chance. He said it wasn't fair for them to overhaul it / free up things because he'd have to pay a guy but for me to spend an hour or two freeing up things and then he can source any bits I need.
Gareth J
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Weird one;
A really soft rubber ink roller. Outside perished and replacements in short supply.
Dremel in the toolpost with ceramic grinding disc seemed to be as good as anything to remove the bulk
Finished with coarse sandpaper
Success, but a fiddly job
A few more to do so any alternative material removal ideas welcome!
A really soft rubber ink roller. Outside perished and replacements in short supply.
Dremel in the toolpost with ceramic grinding disc seemed to be as good as anything to remove the bulk
Finished with coarse sandpaper
Success, but a fiddly job
A few more to do so any alternative material removal ideas welcome!
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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- Keeler crater
You could try sticking one in the freezer overnight, I've heard of machining rubber frozen but I assume you need liquid nitrogen temperatures to make it work, can't hurt to try though. Having said that, it's probably more trouble than it's worth, grinding looks like it's worked well.
Gareth J
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- North Cornwall
Thanks, nice suggestion. Might get one decent clearing pass out of it if quick. But yea, maybe not worth the risk. That's the worst bit, the perished outer rubber has gone really sticky.
The Artilleryman
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- Boston UK
Remember to check the nose weight - normally 90kg max.
JMS1972
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- NW Leicestershire, UK
Could you rough it out by hand with a wood turning lathe tool?
You need some really sharp so maybe a finely honed has tool with a very acute cutting angle.
I did think about a shearing type lathe tool but not sure if they are any good for soft materials.
sako243
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- My mansion in Wales
sako243
Member
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- 4,205
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- My mansion in Wales
For what - a Mini?
I'm pretty sure all my tow vehicles are at least 150kg, I think the Defender is 350kg, the L322 is 350kg but derated a bit if the vehicle is laden because of the air bags - but still in excess of 150kg and the Sandringham - well that's at least 350kg - I suspect I could easily add a tonne nose weight onto the back of that and it's still not going to be affected.
Gareth J
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Maybe a razor sharp something would cut rather than smear or chatter. Can't be done by hand though as the roller needs to be plate glass flat, or true, or whatever the word is. Should be able to sharpen something up to put in the toolpost to try. Although I suspect that then I'll be limited by the relatively slow lathe speed. Hey ho, this does work so I'll probably just persevere with the last couple. Once through the perished gloopy rubber, coarse wet and dry works very well.
mrsbruce
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- Livingston, Scotland
Not an exciting day, but quite satisfying.
The faces on one of the mauls I made for leatherwork, had become damaged to the point where little flakes of the material were coming off with every blow. This gave me a chance to play with my little lathe today. It took longer to set up in the 4 jaw chuck than to reface it, but it looks as good as new now.
The thing I really wanted to get done for a long time, was to drill a hole in my 1/2 ton arbor ram. This would allow me to use some of my larger hole and billet end cutters in the press. Thing is, the ram is way too long for the Warco mill, and I couldn’t work out how to safely drill it on the lathe.
Solution? I set up the steady, and secured the ram from flapping about by cutting a piece of aluminium tube slightly larger than the diameter of the ram, secured the tube in the steady, and fed the ram into the tube ( see attached image).
Hole made, and buns for tea.
Why am I so chuffed about a simple task like this? Well, I have been puzzling over how to set up this ‘job’ for months, and tried umpteen combinations and cunning plans before hitting this one.
The faces on one of the mauls I made for leatherwork, had become damaged to the point where little flakes of the material were coming off with every blow. This gave me a chance to play with my little lathe today. It took longer to set up in the 4 jaw chuck than to reface it, but it looks as good as new now.
The thing I really wanted to get done for a long time, was to drill a hole in my 1/2 ton arbor ram. This would allow me to use some of my larger hole and billet end cutters in the press. Thing is, the ram is way too long for the Warco mill, and I couldn’t work out how to safely drill it on the lathe.
Solution? I set up the steady, and secured the ram from flapping about by cutting a piece of aluminium tube slightly larger than the diameter of the ram, secured the tube in the steady, and fed the ram into the tube ( see attached image).
Hole made, and buns for tea.
Why am I so chuffed about a simple task like this? Well, I have been puzzling over how to set up this ‘job’ for months, and tried umpteen combinations and cunning plans before hitting this one.
slim_boy_fat
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- Scottish Highlands
I'll award you a gold star for thinking outside the box 
Scruffywelder
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- Dumfries & Galloway, Scotland
Similar to an idea that used to get used at a place I used to work. We had several short lengths of tube drilled and tapped around their circumference for centring screws that could be run in a fixed steady to hold square/hex/irregularly shaped stuff. Kinda fiddly to set up but handy sometimes.
Known as a cats head because... reasons
JMS1972
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- 1,205
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- NW Leicestershire, UK
I've been meaning to do an oil change on the Chester Mill.
Build up of crud on the level window.
I've removed it and flushed this out now
Drain was quite easy to get out four screws remove the cover plate and reveal a big grub screw.
Precariously balanced tray of goop. Quite a lot of bubbles as I ran it for a bit to try and get any crud in suspension.
No big chunks in the oil just a bit of the usual Chinese casting grit that seems to come as standard these days.
I shall leave it drain overnight and refill with ISO 32 hydraulic oil. Luckily my mill has a decent sized fill plug as well as a breather.
Build up of crud on the level window.
I've removed it and flushed this out now Drain was quite easy to get out four screws remove the cover plate and reveal a big grub screw.
Precariously balanced tray of goop. Quite a lot of bubbles as I ran it for a bit to try and get any crud in suspension.
No big chunks in the oil just a bit of the usual Chinese casting grit that seems to come as standard these days.
I shall leave it drain overnight and refill with ISO 32 hydraulic oil. Luckily my mill has a decent sized fill plug as well as a breather.
dobbslc
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I don't know how to upload it
