Stuff you have fixed today

[Dcal]

Today I fixed @WvW Omnimil Depth Stop Collar that had snapped.

Omnimil Depth Stop Collar - Snapped!

In the process of restoring my Omnimil, and like a stupid idiot, and for no reason, I have overtightened the depth stop collar and snapped it. I thought things were going well. I was just wondering what people's opinions are of how best to repair? I'm not going to find another that's for sure...

www.mig-welding.co.uk

I think the reason it snapped was because there are a couple of threads in the free, (what should be) unthreaded end of the clamp. As a result the clamp bolt had to be overtighten for it to clamp at all, and something had to give.

To fix it, I bolted the pieces back together with a couple of washers keeping everything tight while maintaining the clamp gap. I also kept the troublesome thread as it helped to keep alignment and spacing.
I veed out the crack with a wee grinder then rounded it with a burr.

Then pre heated the whole clamp well, before brazing.

After brazing I covered it, let it cool completely, before grooving out the other side.

Then preheated again and brazing from the other side.

I covered and let it cool again before fairing the most of the brass off in the lathe. I didn't go too far to keep as much material as possible.

Then set up and drilled out the extra thread on the bench drill.

A bit more of a sand and it should be good to go. (I do hope it holds)

 

[WvW]

Today I fixed @WvW Omnimil Depth Stop Collar that had snapped.

Omnimil Depth Stop Collar - Snapped!

In the process of restoring my Omnimil, and like a stupid idiot, and for no reason, I have overtightened the depth stop collar and snapped it. I thought things were going well. I was just wondering what people's opinions are of how best to repair? I'm not going to find another that's for sure...

www.mig-welding.co.uk

I think the reason it snapped was because there are a couple of threads in the free, (what should be) unthreaded end of the clamp. As a result the clamp bolt had to be overtighten for it to clamp at all, and something had to give.

View attachment 329553

To fix it, I bolted the pieces back together with a couple of washers keeping everything tight while maintaining the clamp gap. I also kept the troublesome thread as it helped to keep alignment and spacing.
I veed out the crack with a wee grinder then rounded it with a burr.


View attachment 329555

Then pre heated the whole clamp well, before brazing.

View attachment 329556

After brazing I covered it, let it cool completely, before grooving out the other side.

View attachment 329557

Then preheated again and brazing from the other side.

View attachment 329558

I covered and let it cool again before fairing the most of the brass off in the lathe. I didn't go too far to keep as much material as possible.

View attachment 329559

Then set up and drilled out the extra thread on the bench drill.

A bit more of a sand and it should be good to go. (I do hope it holds)

View attachment 329559 View attachment 329554

Fantastic work. Very much appreciated!

 

[daleyd]

Today I fixed @WvW Omnimil Depth Stop Collar that had snapped.

Omnimil Depth Stop Collar - Snapped!

In the process of restoring my Omnimil, and like a stupid idiot, and for no reason, I have overtightened the depth stop collar and snapped it. I thought things were going well. I was just wondering what people's opinions are of how best to repair? I'm not going to find another that's for sure...

www.mig-welding.co.uk

I think the reason it snapped was because there are a couple of threads in the free, (what should be) unthreaded end of the clamp. As a result the clamp bolt had to be overtighten for it to clamp at all, and something had to give.

View attachment 329553

To fix it, I bolted the pieces back together with a couple of washers keeping everything tight while maintaining the clamp gap. I also kept the troublesome thread as it helped to keep alignment and spacing.
I veed out the crack with a wee grinder then rounded it with a burr.


View attachment 329555

Then pre heated the whole clamp well, before brazing.

View attachment 329556

After brazing I covered it, let it cool completely, before grooving out the other side.

View attachment 329557

Then preheated again and brazing from the other side.

View attachment 329558

I covered and let it cool again before fairing the most of the brass off in the lathe. I didn't go too far to keep as much material as possible.

View attachment 329559

Then set up and drilled out the extra thread on the bench drill.

A bit more of a sand and it should be good to go. (I do hope it holds)

View attachment 329559 View attachment 329554

Fantastic work

 

[Other Daniel]

Today I fixed @WvW Omnimil Depth Stop Collar that had snapped.

Omnimil Depth Stop Collar - Snapped!

In the process of restoring my Omnimil, and like a stupid idiot, and for no reason, I have overtightened the depth stop collar and snapped it. I thought things were going well. I was just wondering what people's opinions are of how best to repair? I'm not going to find another that's for sure...

www.mig-welding.co.uk

I think the reason it snapped was because there are a couple of threads in the free, (what should be) unthreaded end of the clamp. As a result the clamp bolt had to be overtighten for it to clamp at all, and something had to give.

View attachment 329553

To fix it, I bolted the pieces back together with a couple of washers keeping everything tight while maintaining the clamp gap. I also kept the troublesome thread as it helped to keep alignment and spacing.
I veed out the crack with a wee grinder then rounded it with a burr.


View attachment 329555

Then pre heated the whole clamp well, before brazing.

View attachment 329556

After brazing I covered it, let it cool completely, before grooving out the other side.

View attachment 329557

Then preheated again and brazing from the other side.

View attachment 329558

I covered and let it cool again before fairing the most of the brass off in the lathe. I didn't go too far to keep as much material as possible.

View attachment 329559

Then set up and drilled out the extra thread on the bench drill.

A bit more of a sand and it should be good to go. (I do hope it holds)

View attachment 329559 View attachment 329554

Nice repair.

 

[Dieselman 63]

Fill with dry sand before you bend and it helps with the process, especially if doing it by hand.

I earned a chocolate biscuit on my course for knowing that

 

[Morrisman]

Fill with dry sand before you bend and it helps with the process, especially if doing it by hand.

I’ve used that method before, so I shall have a play again. Brundle actually supply ready bent 90’s in the same type tube I have, so I shall splice in a few of them as required.

 

[Barking Mat]

Following on from my comment, I hate plumbing, I've spent today plumbing.

Installed a pump to take the kitchen sink on a boat to the grey water tank.

It was a PITA, spent some hours lying under a sink today, before it just went overboard. Electrical side tomorrow.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

I’ve used that method before, so I shall have a play again. Brundle actually supply ready bent 90’s in the same type tube I have, so I shall splice in a few of them as required.

Brundles buy them in.

When you order them, over the phone. Make sure you get a prommis if they are not 90Deg +-10% you can get a refund or a discount.
They buy them in for a price.

 

[8ob]

I bought a button riveting set so I can fix all my work jeans.

Added a decent size washer to the rivet side

 

[123hotchef]

I bought a button riveting set so I can fix all my work jeans.

View attachment 329742

Added a decent size washer to the rivet side

View attachment 329741

View attachment 329744




View attachment 329743

Is the belly getting too big

 

[dobbslc]

Nice, authentic!

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Yes, I got this.

But The glass went ping, smash tinkle.
I went Oh dear dear me.

Got some new glass.

Wicks still need some tlc.

@julianthegypsy Told you so.

 

[julianthegypsy]

View attachment 329911

Yes, I got this.

But The glass went ping, smash tinkle.
I went Oh dear dear me.

View attachment 329912

Got some new glass.
View attachment 329913

Wicks still need some tlc.


View attachment 329914

@julianthegypsy Told you so.

Beautiful. Talk about "atmospheric" lighting, it doesn't get much more atmospheric than that!

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

The last and looking lonley bit of glass.

So.

I got this german Storm lantern, when I got it it had glass.

But some one broke it.

I dug it out. The glass should fit.

The thing about german storm lanters, they are metric.

The thing about English spares storm lantern parts, they are imperial.

The other thing is metal bends.

It will fit.

 

[nickk]

Have an old customer of 32 years standing,he’s passionate for his old Masseys and their implements,so I’ve repaired and replaced a few bits lately,but this one was a first,it’s from his seed drill,there’s several internally splined washers,but....they’re cast iron,neither of us wanted to dismantle the two shafts,it’s 60+ years old,so I tried cutting two spare ones in half,sliding them over the square shaft,then welding in situ,it was so difficult,a weld about 5 mm long,then had to be dressed internally!the shaft rotates and slides,needless to say one just fell apart,so decided to strip the whole assembly,then slide on the proper way,in the end quicker than my hoped for short cut,a long job,but it’s vintage so he’ll have to pay.

 

[GavJ]

I’ve used that method before, so I shall have a play again. Brundle actually supply ready bent 90’s in the same type tube I have, so I shall splice in a few of them as required.

When filling with dry sand, chap the pipe with a bit of wood and watch the sand settle, top up and repeat untill it doesnt settle any more. Heat till dull red, pause and let it soak in, heat again and bend slowly. Depending on radius you need more heat at end nearest where you pull round.. hard to explain, just an experience thing. If bend isnt uniform you can open bend, re heat where required and bend again.....

 

[Morrisman]

When filling with dry sand, chap the pipe with a bit of wood and watch the sand settle, top up and repeat untill it doesnt settle any more. Heat till dull red, pause and let it soak in, heat again and bend slowly. Depending on radius you need more heat at end nearest where you pull round.. hard to explain, just an experience thing. If bend isnt uniform you can open bend, re heat where required and bend again.....

I have nothing to get it red hot with any more. I used to have a full oxy-acetylene setup in a past life, but all that went in the big D five years ago. I’ve been playing with these pre-bent sections today, they should do the trick and save me a bunch of agro.

Just roughing out the design, while I gather bits and pieces together. A box of parts is on its way from the US, and I’m undecided whether to build my own leading link type front end, or use a stock setup off a big touring bike.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

This iterm has been a pain.

First the glass shattered.
So I got a new set.

So I set it, knowing a wick needed a bit off attention.

Not to worry.

That's the longest one.

I have some wick cores. But I wanted to try a method I was told about.

Trim some bigger wicks to widths.
Then you stop the edges fraying you seal with a fine and thin coating of wax. The fit.

Shame I had to re cut the teweth on a wick gear.

New wicks, new sharp teeth and dirty glass.
Note to self.
Clean hands before fitting the glass.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

This tired Mamod cam my way the other day.

It needed a lot off attention. Not from abuse. But from a lot of use and the passage of time.

In bits, more issues have come to light.

The base was split. Gas brazzing just distorted the frame. So I bribed a friend with Hob Nobs and he tig brazzed it together, dressed the dings and dents out and left it in grey primmer.

De-scalling the boiler.

All ready to rebuild.

The piston and cylinder is badly worn. But replacements of the old style are hard to find. The modern ones just don't fit.

Get the steam pipe repair wrong and it is a pain to rectify.
Get the holes in line. Pin with a small drill to keep them in line. You want the pipe applying a small amout of pressure to the flame. Heat the frame and apply solder to the pipe.
No.
2 tries and I got it right.

Rebuilt and warming through.

Bum.
A distortion. The whittness mark is not good.

In steam and running.

 

[minimutly]

I have nothing to get it red hot with any more. I used to have a full oxy-acetylene setup in a past life, but all that went in the big D five years ago. I’ve been playing with these pre-bent sections today, they should do the trick and save me a bunch of agro.

Just roughing out the design, while I gather bits and pieces together. A box of parts is on its way from the US, and I’m undecided whether to build my own leading link type front end, or use a stock setup off a big touring bike.

View attachment 329969

Leading link, you won't turn a conventional fork setup. Make one for my Vmax while you're at it?