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AndersK
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Sometimes things just doesn't work out the way one thinks...
Learned that routing a slot with the bit against MDF guide isn't the brightest idea I've come up with
Couldn't find a 3mm straight bit with a bearing guide so I pressed one on the shaft.
A tad better
Just a test to see if a printed drill guide would fit, and it does.
Learned that routing a slot with the bit against MDF guide isn't the brightest idea I've come up with
Couldn't find a 3mm straight bit with a bearing guide so I pressed one on the shaft.
A tad better
Just a test to see if a printed drill guide would fit, and it does.
Blue Chips
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I had a free day at home due to a storm, and instead of ticking off another task box on the "honey-do" list, I hid in my shop and played with some of my toys. I really like antique metal things, and a couple of weeks ago my wife found an old Reading Model 78 apple parer/peeler for me to add to my collection of old and sometimes weird mechanisms. She didn't notice that it had a few broken parts, but I found another similar parer on ebay for a few bucks that had the needed parts. The old Model 78 parer apparently dates from the 1800s, and the "donor" parer appears to be a newer, 20th-century version of the Model 78.
Here's the old parer, as found:
Here's the newer "donor" parer, whose big gear was beyond repair. It selflessly donated a couple of organs to transplant to the old one.
Parer parts, disassembled:
Some of the parer parts after bead blasting, etc.:
An old catalog/catalogue page showing the Model 78:
Here's the parer after painting, fabricating a few replacement fasteners, epoxy coating, and reassembly.
NOTE: I restored the parer for display purposes only, but even so, there are no painted parts that would actually come in contact with an apple.
I applied a coating of clear epoxy (FDA compliant for food contact) to the parts (which were bare metal) that would actually touch an apple.
Even though the parer is for display purposes only, I tested it on just one apple to make sure it works.
Eureka! The blades could stand to be a little sharper to smooth out the peel, but otherwise it did a good job of paring and properly ejecting an apple.
Now, back to work on my "real" projects!
Here's the old parer, as found:
Here's the newer "donor" parer, whose big gear was beyond repair. It selflessly donated a couple of organs to transplant to the old one.
Parer parts, disassembled:
Some of the parer parts after bead blasting, etc.:
An old catalog/catalogue page showing the Model 78:
Here's the parer after painting, fabricating a few replacement fasteners, epoxy coating, and reassembly.
NOTE: I restored the parer for display purposes only, but even so, there are no painted parts that would actually come in contact with an apple.
I applied a coating of clear epoxy (FDA compliant for food contact) to the parts (which were bare metal) that would actually touch an apple.
Even though the parer is for display purposes only, I tested it on just one apple to make sure it works.
Eureka! The blades could stand to be a little sharper to smooth out the peel, but otherwise it did a good job of paring and properly ejecting an apple.
Now, back to work on my "real" projects!
dan.taylor.1
General Tinkererer
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Yesterday but didn't have time to post, fettled my new to me spare superfire 2 with a rebuild kit, and polished the body as the paint was peeling anyway (plus who actually reads safety stickers!)
The Artilleryman
Member
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A cheat I know, but somebody fixed this for me
jammed 1/4" bspt fusible plug.
And this is how Tom got easy access to the fire box crown.
jammed 1/4" bspt fusible plug.
And this is how Tom got easy access to the fire box crown.
Morrisman
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- Staffordshire, England
I ordered 20 metres of 42 mm steel tube ‘circular hollow section’ from Brundles Monday night, it arrived 10a, this morning.Almost there.
Just a bit of finishing off.
She's a good 'un.
Now I need design a frame, and to see if my Chinesium bender will actually put nice bends in it.
I could do some sort of Ducati like space frame, all straight sections, but I prefer the olde worlde bent tube look.
Blobber
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Thats nice, looks like its had a bit of use?
The Artilleryman
Member
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As it's still on strakes - rear wheels, metal bars - it's been exhibited as a miniature version of a working condition full size.
Changes are afoot for this year.
Changes are afoot for this year.
My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
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I made a start on my 'false' roof to cover the original to try and keep the moisture from dripping on the workshop equipment 
It is framed with 47mm x 95mm and the sides are 19mm x 95mm all pressure treated. The insulation is polystyrene type stuff and the roof is corrugated bitumen.
I expect those professionals on here will tell me all the things I have done wrong but hey
I can take it 
It is framed with 47mm x 95mm and the sides are 19mm x 95mm all pressure treated. The insulation is polystyrene type stuff and the roof is corrugated bitumen.
I expect those professionals on here will tell me all the things I have done wrong but hey
I can take it 
MattF
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I made a start on my 'false' roof to cover the original to try and keep the moisture from dripping on the workshop equipment
I know your pain.
I fixed the non-starting issue that was plaguing the laid-up 1995 Nissan Terrano II. Starter was sticky, but I found the issue was he solenoid not engaging. Voltage was getting to the solenoid but it was down a bit.
Stuck some jump leads on off another vehicle, then ran a wire direct from the starter solenoid tab so I could apply 14v straight off the battery +ive.
That did the trick.
Then found the brake warning light was on (fluid or vacuum pressure). Fluid OK, the vacuum pump off the alternator was fine, so I pulled the vacuum pipe off the servo, confirmed good vacuum, then stuffed it back on with the motor running... and off went the light! I reckon the sudden suction unstuck the switch and restored function.
Silly things from the truck standing I suppose, but a little time and a bit of luck and all was well.
Hopefully there's no serious issues elsewhere, and I can get this 4x4 mot's again after 3-years parked up.
After that, I played with settings and wire (0.8 solid, 0.8 gasless, and 0.6 solid) with my new Oxford MigMaker 180-1 and got some test welds & performance I was pretty happy with.
All small things, but overall a positive few hours
Stuck some jump leads on off another vehicle, then ran a wire direct from the starter solenoid tab so I could apply 14v straight off the battery +ive.
That did the trick.
Then found the brake warning light was on (fluid or vacuum pressure). Fluid OK, the vacuum pump off the alternator was fine, so I pulled the vacuum pipe off the servo, confirmed good vacuum, then stuffed it back on with the motor running... and off went the light! I reckon the sudden suction unstuck the switch and restored function.
Silly things from the truck standing I suppose, but a little time and a bit of luck and all was well.
Hopefully there's no serious issues elsewhere, and I can get this 4x4 mot's again after 3-years parked up.
After that, I played with settings and wire (0.8 solid, 0.8 gasless, and 0.6 solid) with my new Oxford MigMaker 180-1 and got some test welds & performance I was pretty happy with.
All small things, but overall a positive few hours
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
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- UK
Leaking shower - part n of an indefinite series.
The eldest daughters shower was leaking. It's above her bath and the water was coming through into the kitchen below.
I did the obvious first, make sure she had the shower curtain in the bath and covered the full length of the bath, descaled the shower head so water was spraying downwards. Still the same.
Next, the seal around the bath, it looked iffy in a couple of places, but I had sealed the bath to the wall before tiling so this was belt and braces, but it looked cosmetically a bit rough so replaced it, still leaked.
Next, the thermostatic valve. However I wasn't convinced this was the culprit, I was thinking that the likely problem was the hardest, the joint from the thermostatic valve to the shower head. This is buried in the wall behind a fitted bookcase in her bedroom and would mean emptying books, unscrewing the bookcase and cutting a hole in the stud wall. In the other bedrooms the showers back on to a closet or airing cupboard so I have service panels, I didn't have the option in this room. But its been leak free for 20 years, why now?
So, its an Aqaulisa thermostatic shower valve, I bought 3 at the same time 20 years ago, a mate from work's brother had staff discount. All have worked flawlessly without maintenance for 20 years. A new cartridge is about 150 quid but an o-ring kit is a tenner, so that's what I got first. Theoretically, this should only fix the shower head from dripping when the shower is turned off, but given its 20 years old, probably needs doing any way. The only way this could stop the problem of the leak into the kitchen is if it leaked through the front of the unit and dribbled back and down into the partition, but there is no sign of that. Anyway, less theorising, more action.
This is the cartridge after coaxing it from its 20 year home
a bit or rusty slurry on the bi-metallic doo dah, so gave it a good wipe down.
This is the the O-ring kit from the bay of evil. Ten quid for 50 p worth of P-rings but they tell you where they need to go and they are the right thickness so fine by me. All labelled up so you need to be seriously thick to screw it up.
Getting the cartridge apart was easy, the plastic nut is a weak spot so gently does it to take it off, and it doesn't need much more than hand tight afterwards
This is where most of the O-ring action is, 4 in total. I started at the bottom in this photo, one at a time so I can roll the O-rings over the old ones to the new. If you take out all the O-rings first then you have to stretch the new O-rings over empty channels.
this is the screw that turns the flow on and off. I gave this a good clean and new silicon grease.
This is the hardest bit, replacing the lone O-ring at the back of the housing, you can just see it peeking out.
YouTube recommends a crochet hook with a spike to get it out, I don't have one of those, after a bit of trial and error, the ideal weapon are pointy tweezers. You can't get behind it, so stab it and pull it out.
Putting the O-ring back is a bit fiddly bit not as hard as removal.
So, turn it on and look under the bath, no leaks, go into the kitchen, no leaks. Turn the temperature up, no leaks. Get the daughter to take a shower no leaks.
I'm cautiously optimistic that it is fixed, I'm not convince why it fixed it, but it seems to have worked, for now..........
Then I walked over the moors for an hour with the dog to the pub to meet friends over a hot beef sandwich, chips and beer
The eldest daughters shower was leaking. It's above her bath and the water was coming through into the kitchen below.
I did the obvious first, make sure she had the shower curtain in the bath and covered the full length of the bath, descaled the shower head so water was spraying downwards. Still the same.
Next, the seal around the bath, it looked iffy in a couple of places, but I had sealed the bath to the wall before tiling so this was belt and braces, but it looked cosmetically a bit rough so replaced it, still leaked.
Next, the thermostatic valve. However I wasn't convinced this was the culprit, I was thinking that the likely problem was the hardest, the joint from the thermostatic valve to the shower head. This is buried in the wall behind a fitted bookcase in her bedroom and would mean emptying books, unscrewing the bookcase and cutting a hole in the stud wall. In the other bedrooms the showers back on to a closet or airing cupboard so I have service panels, I didn't have the option in this room. But its been leak free for 20 years, why now?
So, its an Aqaulisa thermostatic shower valve, I bought 3 at the same time 20 years ago, a mate from work's brother had staff discount. All have worked flawlessly without maintenance for 20 years. A new cartridge is about 150 quid but an o-ring kit is a tenner, so that's what I got first. Theoretically, this should only fix the shower head from dripping when the shower is turned off, but given its 20 years old, probably needs doing any way. The only way this could stop the problem of the leak into the kitchen is if it leaked through the front of the unit and dribbled back and down into the partition, but there is no sign of that. Anyway, less theorising, more action.
This is the cartridge after coaxing it from its 20 year home
a bit or rusty slurry on the bi-metallic doo dah, so gave it a good wipe down.
This is the the O-ring kit from the bay of evil. Ten quid for 50 p worth of P-rings but they tell you where they need to go and they are the right thickness so fine by me. All labelled up so you need to be seriously thick to screw it up.
Getting the cartridge apart was easy, the plastic nut is a weak spot so gently does it to take it off, and it doesn't need much more than hand tight afterwards
This is where most of the O-ring action is, 4 in total. I started at the bottom in this photo, one at a time so I can roll the O-rings over the old ones to the new. If you take out all the O-rings first then you have to stretch the new O-rings over empty channels.
this is the screw that turns the flow on and off. I gave this a good clean and new silicon grease.
This is the hardest bit, replacing the lone O-ring at the back of the housing, you can just see it peeking out.
YouTube recommends a crochet hook with a spike to get it out, I don't have one of those, after a bit of trial and error, the ideal weapon are pointy tweezers. You can't get behind it, so stab it and pull it out.
Putting the O-ring back is a bit fiddly bit not as hard as removal.
So, turn it on and look under the bath, no leaks, go into the kitchen, no leaks. Turn the temperature up, no leaks. Get the daughter to take a shower no leaks.
I'm cautiously optimistic that it is fixed, I'm not convince why it fixed it, but it seems to have worked, for now..........
Then I walked over the moors for an hour with the dog to the pub to meet friends over a hot beef sandwich, chips and beer
Last edited:
dobbslc
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- Hertfordshire UK
Nice work! At least you didnt rip a newly installed wall hung toilet off the wall, dismantle the paneling and then smash a hole in the newly painted wall to check the Speedfit elbow to fix a leak that turned out to be a new (but crap) radiator valve 
CHS won’t bend tidy more than a few degrees,you want seamless and decent mandrels.I ordered 20 metres of 42 mm steel tube ‘circular hollow section’ from Brundles Monday night, it arrived 10a, this morning.
Now I need design a frame, and to see if my Chinesium bender will actually put nice bends in it.
I could do some sort of Ducati like space frame, all straight sections, but I prefer the olde worlde bent tube look.
Morrisman
Forum Supporter
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- 9,030
- Location
- Staffordshire, England
Seamless, DOM etc, costs five times the price of CHS, and I don’t have room for a mandrel bender in either my workshop or my bank account. So, a slightly bent frame its going to be.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- 20,342
- Location
- Going Away.
Bit of fun.
A lot of history and a host of memories.
This Dental flask clamp came my way the other day.
It has had a hard life as a press. But a unloved life as a Garden gate stop.
This showes 2 of the 3 issues.
Rust in pits and a pour paint job.
Plus a broken securing screw.
Left handed drills did nothing but make a hole.
Imperial grub screws need ordering in. Metric ones should be easy to find. But not yestreday when I wanted some. So I made some from Allan bolts.
This should of come off, but even with heat, oil and time it would not shift. It was getting to the point of damagining the soft cap nut.
So I left it and worked around it.
Vinegar and citric acid powder mixed into a paste. This highlighted a hidden issue. In the past some one had applied a wax like substance.
So "meths", wire wool and wax removal cream was needed to remove it..
A wire brush did not work, it spread it thiner.
Here you can see the frame with black oxide forming. The head I tried some Off the shelf rust killer. Oh it worked, just not as good as I thought it should of done.
The frame was warmed and rattle can paint applied.
Finished.
A lot of history and a host of memories.
This Dental flask clamp came my way the other day.
It has had a hard life as a press. But a unloved life as a Garden gate stop.
This showes 2 of the 3 issues.
Rust in pits and a pour paint job.
Plus a broken securing screw.
Left handed drills did nothing but make a hole.
Imperial grub screws need ordering in. Metric ones should be easy to find. But not yestreday when I wanted some. So I made some from Allan bolts.
This should of come off, but even with heat, oil and time it would not shift. It was getting to the point of damagining the soft cap nut.
So I left it and worked around it.
Vinegar and citric acid powder mixed into a paste. This highlighted a hidden issue. In the past some one had applied a wax like substance.
So "meths", wire wool and wax removal cream was needed to remove it..
A wire brush did not work, it spread it thiner.
Here you can see the frame with black oxide forming. The head I tried some Off the shelf rust killer. Oh it worked, just not as good as I thought it should of done.
The frame was warmed and rattle can paint applied.
Finished.
God mode restorations
Member
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- 8,149
- Location
- uk colchester
Yesterday and this morning I had the pleasure of fixing the catalyst on the Mrs car. A completely rotten exhaust flange. A crap job removing it. Made a new flange with a new gasket. Job done.
