Stuff you have fixed today

[8ob]

Timberwolf hydraulics needed investigating when the rollers stopped working, pressure check revealed sod all pressure. Turns out the seat for the pressure relief valve had managed to unscrew itself and rip the seal. Said seat is way down in the valve block and only spotted it because the seal was hanging out of the side of it. A new seal fitted and butchered fashioned a socket to make a tool for reaching down in there to tighten the relief valve seat.

All done

 

[ukracer]

Something that I have been putting off for ages, new USB port and battery in my Samsung Note 8. I've been using wireless charging for almost a year ever since I inadvertently got grinding dust in the USB port and killed it the next time I charged the phone. The battery wasn't essential but I thought I may as well while I'm in there, battery life isn't terrible, but not as good as new.

The trouble is I use it for work, so if I screwed it then it would be a rush to the shop to buy a new phone and I didn't want to spend that kind of money again. I do like my smart phone, but don't need the latest camera/screen etc. but would probably end up buying another Samsung. Anyway, decided to do it myself, I've had the USB board in the to-do drawer for almost a year. The battery purports to have 350mAh more than the standard Note 8 3300mAh, so hopefully a noticeable upgrade.

View attachment 331222

The hardest bit is getting the screen off. The hottest the 3D printer bed will go seems to be 90c, and Youtube reckons you should be aiming for 110c to get the glue to give a bit. So started on the 3D printer after removing the bed glue. Then finished off with e heat gun, gradually adding more heat until the back moved when I pulled the supplied sucker so I could get the supplied tool underneath.

View attachment 331223

Doh! There were no signs of existing cracks but I have dropped it a few times so maybe that weakened it, that or I'm a heavy handed oaf.

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Double doh! In case your wondering I've blocked out the IMEI number for security reasons. Samsung also stick it on the battery.

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Not a big deal, I already factored this in to the fix, a new rear screen is a tenner next day delivery on Amazon so one is in the pipe already, plus my case holds the camera lens in place so I can still use it until this arrives. Once I cracked the screen I just ripped the back off being careful not to break the fingerprint scanner cable.

Next take off the rear inner covers that also includes the wireless charging loop. Lots of little screws. Also remove the SIM and s-pen.

View attachment 331226

Then remove the motherboard, only one screw but lots of little connectors.

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Then remove the USB board, the new one was about a tenner from China and looks almost identical

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Then replace the battery, more heat from the 3D printer bed but on the face of the phone this time, its glued in, I used a thin scraper to gently prize it out.

New USB board and battery in, reassembly was simple enough, and I didn't have any screws left over - bonus!

View attachment 331229

So far, everything works, USB and wireless charging, WLAN, Bluetooth, fingerprint scanner, phone, cameras but still testing.

Barring accidents or other faults, I think I'm good for another 3 years, we may have 5G near me by then

Cheers
Andy

Did you replace the actual front screen?

 

[brewdexta]

Did you replace the actual front screen?

No, it's barely marked, it usually wears a screen protector. It's just the rear cover, which is also glass, that is fubar.

 

[Maker]

Is that like The Repair Shop on TV?
Do you get loads of people crying

I'd love someone to go on there and when they ask what the item means to them they say "Oh I just saw it on eBay and figured it might be worth something if I could get it fixed".

Seriously what's with all the crying? Are they cutting onions back stage?

 

[Onoff]

Seriously what's with all the crying? Are they cutting onions back stage?

How about "Clone My Dead Pet" as a series? Then it leaps off the table and gets run over just like the original.

 

[MattF]

Chuff me. Some of you lot are heartless.

 

[northwest]

I've been meaning to do an oil change on the Chester Mill.

Build up of crud on the level window. I've removed it and flushed this out now

View attachment 330957
Drain was quite easy to get out four screws remove the cover plate and reveal a big grub screw.

View attachment 330959

Precariously balanced tray of goop. Quite a lot of bubbles as I ran it for a bit to try and get any crud in suspension.

View attachment 330961
No big chunks in the oil just a bit of the usual Chinese casting grit that seems to come as standard these days.

I shall leave it drain overnight and refill with ISO 32 hydraulic oil. Luckily my mill has a decent sized fill plug as well as a breather.

I have the exact same Mill and I want to strip the head and replace all the bearings with something of quality, it is a known fact the bearings are suspect from new, combined with the free casting sand they are starting to rattle, it is an RF 45 clone. I also want to chang the motor toa two horse 3 phase on an inverter but that is going to have to wait.

 

[MattF]

This is what came out of my lathe gearbox!

View attachment 330963

Took days to get it out, in the end I ran it until hot then took the drain plug out and got a long red continuous turd out!

It's safe to say that was long overdue a lubricant change.

 

[JMS1972]

I have the exact same Mill and I want to strip the head and replace all the bearings with something of quality, it is a known fact the bearings are suspect from new, combined with the free casting sand they are starting to rattle, it is an RF 45 clone. I also want to chang the motor toa two horse 3 phase on an inverter but that is going to have to wait.

I was thinking about doing that.

I watched

Looks like reassembly is a bit fiddly but not too bad.

Don't really have the cash or time to do this at the moment so decided to just settle on an oil change as the mill works fine for me.

Weird to see the bottom bearings were shielded rather than sealed does that let the oil wash away any grease I wonder.

 

[Blue Chips]

In the process of restoring our 220-year-old house in Alna, Maine, one of the many tasks that we've been working on lately is removing the plaster ceiling that was concealing the beams in the ell of the house, with the idea of having exposed beams in those rooms. These are hefty, hand-hewn beams, averaging roughly 7" x 8" in cross-section, with clearly visible adze marks, so they should be a nice character feature in these rooms.

One of these beams had a longitudinal crack in it, as you can see below. This particular beam is called a "tie beam," which ties together the "top plates" and the ends of the "major rafters" on opposite sides of the ell. It's connected via mortise-and-tenon joints and secured with oak pegs. It doesn't support any weight load other than the floor of the attic storage area, but I went ahead and welded up a custom support bracket, using 3" x 3" x 3/16" steel angle and 3" x 3/16" steel flat bar and installed it.

For the ceiling treatment, we plan to install about 4" of styrofoam insulation under the attic floorboards between the tie beams and then cover the insulation with special "blueboard" sheetrock/drywall that's designed to receive plaster, which should create an authentic appearance. This means that only the lower 4" of the beams will be visible, and the modern bolts will be completely hidden. The old split-board lath on the walls will be re-secured, and then plastered with multiple layers of authentic lime-putty-and-sand plaster, containing animal hair or hemp fiber in the initial layers.

The cracked beam:

The bracket I made:

Bracket installed:

 

[James1979]

Timberwolf hydraulics needed investigating when the rollers stopped working, pressure check revealed sod all pressure. Turns out the seat for the pressure relief valve had managed to unscrew itself and rip the seal. Said seat is way down in the valve block and only spotted it because the seal was hanging out of the side of it. A new seal fitted and butchered fashioned a socket to make a tool for reaching down in there to tighten the relief valve seat.

All done

View attachment 331349

View attachment 331348

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Timberwolf are just nasty to work on. The build let’s them down. Plenty of guys use them but because they’re cheap I think. I must have machined no end of parts for them over the years to replace factory bits. The factory wasn’t too far from me near Ipswich but I think they moved up north somewhere?

The 150s had a stupid twin hydraulic pump system from memory. The other thing that annoyed me was you couldn’t track and bring the tracks in at the same time, using the ground to your advantage. You can only do it stationary. I re piped one to allow the guy to do it the ‘proper’ way.

Do they still have those silly nylon slippers on the track arms that gum up?

Snap on do a 22mm 15 degree reversible ratchet ring spanner which is the only tool to release the grease bing for track changes. A decent concept machine but that’s where it sort of stopped. Shame really.

I’ve not worked on them since 190s came out so they’re probably loads better now.

 

[8ob]

Timberwolf hydraulics needed investigating when the rollers stopped working, pressure check revealed sod all pressure. Turns out the seat for the pressure relief valve had managed to unscrew itself and rip the seal. Said seat is way down in the valve block and only spotted it because the seal was hanging out of the side of it. A new seal fitted and butchered fashioned a socket to make a tool for reaching down in there to tighten the relief valve seat.


Timberwolf are just nasty to work on. The build let’s them down. Plenty of guys use them but because they’re cheap I think. I must have machined no end of parts for them over the years to replace factory bits. The factory wasn’t too far from me near Ipswich but I think they moved up north somewhere?

The 150s had a stupid twin hydraulic pump system from memory. The other thing that annoyed me was you couldn’t track and bring the tracks in at the same time, using the ground to your advantage. You can only do it stationary. I re piped one to allow the guy to do it the ‘proper’ way.

Do they still have those silly nylon slippers on the track arms that gum up?

Snap on do a 22mm 15 degree reversible ratchet ring spanner which is the only tool to release the grease bing for track changes. A decent concept machine but that’s where it sort of stopped. Shame really.

I’ve not worked on them since 190s came out so they’re probably loads better now.

All chippers are the same, they never sort the issues until they make a new model. The only reason for sticking with timberwolf is there is an agent within spitting distance which make spares/service items easy to source and collect.

Bob

 

[Barking Mat]

Kind of fixed.

The old electric hydraulic pump unit failed after we took the last boat out in autumn, it wasn't an issue, as the last boat stays on the trailer over the winter.

Some time later, I pulled it apart to find the problem, at some point earlier to us acquiring it the motor had been submerged in water, and the brushes had rusted to the holder, and ceased to slide.

I attempted brake cleaner to get them out, but one of four brushes disintegrated. It might get fixed one day, but we ordered a new one.

Bit of chopping, handle moved, and welded back on, changed over the quick release hydraulic coupling, and made a mediocre but functional little enclosure for the command to live in.

Made a change.

 

[sako243]

Some trailer rewiring

 

[Porkypine]

Some trailer rewiring
View attachment 331914

I've got to do this to a horsebox at some point, unfortunately flipping it wont be an option !

 

[sako243]

I've got to do this to a horsebox at some point, unfortunately flipping it wont be an option !

Flipping it is always an option, surviving it is a different matter.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Flipping it is always an option, surviving it is a different matter.

Beat to the same answer.

 

[sako243]

Following on from the rewiring and a quick trip down to CLH to pick up a sheet of Buffalo board (has that got expensive recently!) to make the ramps and voila the inaugural run to test whether the tractor fits on the trailer. Not that I doubted @8ob's measurements but there is 2" of clearance

 

[droopsnoot]

My old-ish electric drill. I've done something to my newer one that means it needs a new rear bearing, and while they're only £1.99, the postage is twice that. So I thought I'd dig out the old drill, the one I replaced when it stopped working, find out what's up with it, then I could order parts for that at the same time and mitigate the postage cost.

I plugged it in and the issue was sparking and popping from the drill motor while running, so I stripped it down. I found a few little bits of metal inside the motor that looked a little bit like the horseshoe-shaped parts that spring off the sheet metal nibbler when I'm using that, so I pulled them out and put it back together, and it's fine now.

I wish I'd thought of doing that instead of just buying a new drill, all those years ago.

Now I need to find the other power drill that I'm pretty sure also needs a bearing somewhere. I had a quick look around the shed and can't see it anywhere, but I can't imagine I've thrown it out even if it doesn't work.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Not so much repaired. Improved.

Not fitted on the base model.

Desoldered the filled holes and installed a new socket.

Yes. It's upsidedown. Trimmed the connector and fitted it upsidedown.

Bought it blind as it's a pita to remove it from the rack

Internal scsi2sd cars fitted. SD card pretends to be 7 internals scsi hard drives.