Stuff you have fixed today

[Kram]

RIVNUT Through the carbon fibre to take an m5 screw,customer said a replacement pair were £540! @Kram ,is that possible?
You can see his workmate attempts at a repair.View attachment 493840View attachment 493841

Very possible, what happened the thread stripped?

Distel Carbon Mk3 Climbing Spurs / Spikes Leather Straps - Honey Brothers

Distel Carbon Mk3 Climbing Spurs / Spikes Leather Straps from Honey Brothers. The largest equipment specialist in the tree care industry.

honeybros.com

£900 if you want

Notch Gecko Carbon Fiber 2.0 Climbing Spurs / Spikes - Honey Brothers

The Notch Gecko Carbon Fiber 2.0 Climbing Spikes with a new carbon fiber design that sets a new standard in the industry.

honeybros.com

A lot of people use spikes without an anchor rope, just spikes and lanyard. If the spikes fail they are sliding down the tree.

I dont own any spikes yet but theres no po8nt in carbon fibre when I could loose 30kg. We use cheapy £300 alu ones, which desperately need a new leather strap! It got chewed by a fox.

 

[MattF]

hang on a minute. im a idiot.

You sound like that revelation came as a surprise.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Got this Bowman yesterday.

It looked complete.

These old Bowman engines were well made.

But being well made does not mean ham fisted dismantling will not cause issues.

The Red frame is bent, but not enough to make an issue.

Post steam, no major leaks, just a few tweaks will be needed.

 

[jmp49]

Oil leaking from crankseal again on daughters 207 which has the BMW prince family 1.4 VTI motor. I put a new seal in when I did the chains & guides etc while the engine was on a engine stand months ago because it was caked in thick oil when we bought it, but noticed there was a scag on the surface where the crank seal ran where someone had hamfistedly either drilled the seal or used a woodscrew that marred the surface. So I dressed it carefully with a diamond file and crossed my fingers it sealed. Of course it didnt, and it bled gently ever since much to my disgust.
On these, the end of the crank that the auxillary pulley bolts to is a separate lump sandwiching the camchain sprocket/oil pump sprockets by friction to the crank proper by friction only, so for once that was a advantage, it could be changed if I could find a new old stock one, and ebay eventually yielded one new in the wrapping, which if I locked the motor in place properly I didnt need to mess round with the cam sprocket timing/phasing so only one new stretch bolt for the crank needed + new camcover rubber seals.
So strip the camcover off, put the cam locking tool on, lock the flywheel with a second tool through the bellhousing hole, and back off the camchain tensioner which in situ involved taking off the air intake, disconnecting fuel & breather lines etc. I thought I'd have to take off the intake manifold itself but I managed to get to the tensioner with a 27mm spanner cut into a stub and bent to miss bits with a socket & uj & extension slipped over the stub as a handle. Sooooo much easier on a engine stand, should have done it properly in the first place.


The offending stub of crank. You can see the scratch that cut the new seals across the face with dots next to it. I blame haynes and their "take a drill and drill the seal carefully" advice they stick in every manual nowadays it seems, as this is the 3rd motor I've seen recently with damage like this.


Back together now after daughter deployed to press brakes to do the final new crank bolt torquing and no longer bleeding with new seal. Tomorrow will be assembling some interior bits then I'm done and throwing it out the workshop so I can get on with my landrover's and other stuff.

 

[northwest]

In true forum style and following in the footsteps of @The_Yellow_Ardvark I have a very modest collection of vintage oilers, this brass bodied one I picked up only recently, "keep the patina" be burrerred, it got a good clean up:





I need to make a couple sealing washers for it, sometime, it's in the list.

 

[northwest]

Then I fixed this by the simple expedient of replacing the batteries. No ambiguity as to what was wrong with it:

 

[droopsnoot]

Then I fixed this by the simple expedient of replacing the batteries. No ambiguity as to what was wrong with it:

View attachment 494184

Whereas my car tells me the battery is on the way out by holding the rev counter at zero for a few seconds when the engine starts, rather than using the perfectly adequate LCD display to display a similar message.

 

[bricol]

Then I fixed this by the simple expedient of replacing the batteries. No ambiguity as to what was wrong with it:

View attachment 494184

What does it do when the battery really is dead?

 

[brewdexta]

Then I fixed this by the simple expedient of replacing the batteries. No ambiguity as to what was wrong with it:

View attachment 494184

At work before mobiles were ubiquitous, we use to page people with "Low Cell" and see how many times they would change the battery in their pager before they cottoned on

 

[minimutly]

Not finished yet, but the starter motor is being changed on the Transit motor home, Ford made it impossible to do without removing a lash of coolant hoses, so now it's draining down.. will it fix my poor hot starting (and sluggish cold) issues? Who knows...

 

[MysterG]

Removed the broken spring on the Midget this morning.
Right next to where one of the straps/clamps round the leaves was. I say was as it left the car in a hurry as I pulled away at a junction.
Broken edges show rust in half the break so must have had a crack in it for a while before snapping entirely.

Not something that would ever be seen during an MOT given it was basically hidden by the clamp.

Now have £150 worth of nuts, bolts, bushes, brackets, etc.. on order ready to fit the pair of springs I've had in the shed for the last 20+ years.

 

[Melvyn Best]

Removed the broken spring on the Midget this morning.
Right next to where one of the straps/clamps round the leaves was. I say was as it left the car in a hurry as I pulled away at a junction.
Broken edges show rust in half the break so must have had a crack in it for a while before snapping entirely.

Not something that would ever be seen during an MOT given it was basically hidden by the clamp.

Now have £150 worth of nuts, bolts, bushes, brackets, etc.. on order ready to fit the pair of springs I've had in the shed for the last 20+ years.

Found changing from the lever arm dampers made a huge difference on my Midget

 

[minimutly]

Not finished yet, but the starter motor is being changed on the Transit motor home, Ford made it impossible to do without removing a lash of coolant hoses, so now it's draining down.. will it fix my poor hot starting (and sluggish cold) issues? Who knows...

Oh really..

 

[MattF]

Quality.

 

[Melvyn Best]

Oh really..
View attachment 494237

Check for signs of debris on your old starter, if the DMF is beginning to fail it can cause problems with the starter motor which won’t be covered under the warranty

 

[minimutly]

Thanks, I not long ago rebuilt the engine, dmf and plate were good.
New starter works luvly, doesn't say much for Fords offering, failed at 38k miles, mostly long journeys...

 

[nickk]

Fixed the footrests on the c70,they were a death trap in waiting terrible welding,seller gave me a new set,probably Chinese,1.5 mm larger bar,the clamps didn’t wrap around to give adequate clamping plus the rubber location spigots were in different positions. I had to extend the length of the offside peg to clear the bulgier gearbox case.

 

[m_c]

Not finished yet, but the starter motor is being changed on the Transit motor home, Ford made it impossible to do without removing a lash of coolant hoses, so now it's draining down.. will it fix my poor hot starting (and sluggish cold) issues? Who knows...

It's entirely possible without touching any coolant hoses.
It is a bit tight, but there's enough room to get a 1/4" ratchet and socket onto the terminals.

Thanks, I not long ago rebuilt the engine, dmf and plate were good.
New starter works luvly, doesn't say much for Fords offering, failed at 38k miles, mostly long journeys...

Age is as much a killer as anything.
Problem was most likely some corrosion somewhere, as I used to have to deal with the occasional one with questionable starting. Usually starters would just fail, but you'd get the occasional one which would be starting to seize either due to DMF failure, or after being abused by some idiot who didn't understand how to bleed them after a fuel filter change...

 

[minimutly]

It's entirely possible without touching any coolant hoses.
It is a bit tight, but there's enough room to get a 1/4" ratchet and socket onto the terminals.

Age is as much a killer as anything.
Problem was most likely some corrosion somewhere, as I used to have to deal with the occasional one with questionable starting. Usually starters would just fail, but you'd get the occasional one which would be starting to seize either due to DMF failure, or after being abused by some idiot who didn't understand how to bleed them after a fuel filter change...

Yes, I was expecting someone who has done a few to days that, but my problem is this was my first, on my back, with reading glasses, no patience for the sh1t that Ford sells etc etc..

 

[MysterG]

Got 'new' rear springs on to both sides of the Midget today.
Not a job I enjoyed doing single handed, but it's done ... I hope. Not test driven it yet.