Yes that was a concern initially bending it. In the end I got a Junoesk friend to sit on it while I fixed the clamps - she's a good sport !
Last edited:
- Thread starter qwakers
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northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
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32 weight hydraulic oil, if you need any you are not too far away, you could nip over and I would give you a couple gallon.
Welded clutch was a success!
If you try drilling a hole with that bit you will need the clutch working!
I believe it has effectively 2 clutches, one being the electromagnet on the motor armature and the other one being the friction clutch on the rotary drive assembly so worse case that 2nd clutch will still work and slip it just doesn't have the electromagnetic version which disengages the second it detects a jamIf you try drilling a hole with that bit you will need the clutch working!
qwakers
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oh no.... oh no no no...
it is not knocking... but i don't dare run it any longer.
this is a newly rebuilt rx8 r3 that got recovered in because the oil pressure light was flashing. he also says he heard it start to knock.. good call by the owner. i was 'really' hoping it was the pressure sensor. the rebuilder is being very good about it, no arguments. asked me to diagnose it for him and go from there. i'll call him tomorrow and let him know, and let the owner know the results of the conversation. the likelihood is the pressure regulator is stuck open. that's not a cheap part on its own... i really hope it hasn't done the bearings, but its not good.
it is not knocking... but i don't dare run it any longer.
this is a newly rebuilt rx8 r3 that got recovered in because the oil pressure light was flashing. he also says he heard it start to knock.. good call by the owner. i was 'really' hoping it was the pressure sensor. the rebuilder is being very good about it, no arguments. asked me to diagnose it for him and go from there. i'll call him tomorrow and let him know, and let the owner know the results of the conversation. the likelihood is the pressure regulator is stuck open. that's not a cheap part on its own... i really hope it hasn't done the bearings, but its not good.
JOEPRO
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How often do those wankel engines last between rebuilds?
qwakers
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depends on usage and maintenance. i've stripped dead engines at 30k because the trailing coils died and melted the cat (Backpressure kills rotarys) and i've sold cars with 135k on (my personal record) which still had plenty of compression and another expected 30k or more with correct maintenance.
like any highly stressed performance engine, neglect it at your peril. 99.9% of dead rx8's are caused by a failed ignition system that the owner hasn't noticed. if a trailing plug or coil fails, you likely wont notice because the main spark event worked fine. trouble is, that second spark is to get rid of the rest of the fuel in the chamber. if that ends in the cat, it melts.
short journeys also aren't good for rotaries, and pottering around town cokes them up quicker than anything. i had a car come in with really low compression 4 bar ish and hot start issues. the owner was convinced it needed a rebuild. i persuaded him to bring it to a track day with me and have some fun before it dies.
it gained power throughout the day, he ended the day with a big smile and he had compression in the high 6 bar range. (for the record, 6 bar is excellent, 7.5-8 would be a new engine) he now does a few trackdays a year, that was 5 years ago and its now on 105k and still in the 6's
like any highly stressed performance engine, neglect it at your peril. 99.9% of dead rx8's are caused by a failed ignition system that the owner hasn't noticed. if a trailing plug or coil fails, you likely wont notice because the main spark event worked fine. trouble is, that second spark is to get rid of the rest of the fuel in the chamber. if that ends in the cat, it melts.
short journeys also aren't good for rotaries, and pottering around town cokes them up quicker than anything. i had a car come in with really low compression 4 bar ish and hot start issues. the owner was convinced it needed a rebuild. i persuaded him to bring it to a track day with me and have some fun before it dies.
it gained power throughout the day, he ended the day with a big smile and he had compression in the high 6 bar range. (for the record, 6 bar is excellent, 7.5-8 would be a new engine) he now does a few trackdays a year, that was 5 years ago and its now on 105k and still in the 6's
qwakers
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hang on a minute. im a idiot. its still a bit lower than expected... but psi is on the outside of the gauge.... ffs. 72psi is still lower than id expect cold but still...
ffs moron....
Blobber
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Still doing bits to the Tractor in between times, where the heater matrix had leak over a long period the shell of the headlining had become very fragile and broken in a lot of places, particularly the front corners where the big vents fit
You can still buy a new headlining but they are £482.00 plus the VAT
A bit of 1.5mm plastic medi sheet and lots of PU adhesive seems to have got it, not pretty but wont be seen!
You can still buy a new headlining but they are £482.00 plus the VAT
A bit of 1.5mm plastic medi sheet and lots of PU adhesive seems to have got it, not pretty but wont be seen!
Kram
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Very possible, what happened the thread stripped?
Distel Carbon Climbing Spurs / Spikes Leather Strap Velcro - Honey Brothers
Distel Carbon Climbing Spurs / Spikes Leather Strap Velcro from Honey Brothers. The largest equipment specialist in the tree care industry.
honeybros.com
£900 if you want
Notch Gecko Carbon Fiber 2.0 Climbing Spurs / Spikes - Honey Brothers
The Notch Gecko Carbon Fiber 2.0 Climbing Spikes with a new carbon fiber design that sets a new standard in the industry.
honeybros.com
A lot of people use spikes without an anchor rope, just spikes and lanyard. If the spikes fail they are sliding down the tree.
I dont own any spikes yet but theres no po8nt in carbon fibre when I could loose 30kg. We use cheapy £300 alu ones, which desperately need a new leather strap! It got chewed by a fox.
MattF
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The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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Got this Bowman yesterday.
It looked complete.
These old Bowman engines were well made.
But being well made does not mean ham fisted dismantling will not cause issues.
The Red frame is bent, but not enough to make an issue.
Post steam, no major leaks, just a few tweaks will be needed.
It looked complete.
These old Bowman engines were well made.
But being well made does not mean ham fisted dismantling will not cause issues.
The Red frame is bent, but not enough to make an issue.
Post steam, no major leaks, just a few tweaks will be needed.
Oil leaking from crankseal again on daughters 207 which has the BMW prince family 1.4 VTI motor. I put a new seal in when I did the chains & guides etc while the engine was on a engine stand months ago because it was caked in thick oil when we bought it, but noticed there was a scag on the surface where the crank seal ran where someone had hamfistedly either drilled the seal or used a woodscrew that marred the surface. So I dressed it carefully with a diamond file and crossed my fingers it sealed. Of course it didnt, and it bled gently ever since much to my disgust.
On these, the end of the crank that the auxillary pulley bolts to is a separate lump sandwiching the camchain sprocket/oil pump sprockets by friction to the crank proper by friction only, so for once that was a advantage, it could be changed if I could find a new old stock one, and ebay eventually yielded one new in the wrapping, which if I locked the motor in place properly I didnt need to mess round with the cam sprocket timing/phasing so only one new stretch bolt for the crank needed + new camcover rubber seals.
So strip the camcover off, put the cam locking tool on, lock the flywheel with a second tool through the bellhousing hole, and back off the camchain tensioner which in situ involved taking off the air intake, disconnecting fuel & breather lines etc. I thought I'd have to take off the intake manifold itself but I managed to get to the tensioner with a 27mm spanner cut into a stub and bent to miss bits with a socket & uj & extension slipped over the stub as a handle. Sooooo much easier on a engine stand, should have done it properly in the first place.
The offending stub of crank. You can see the scratch that cut the new seals across the face with dots next to it. I blame haynes and their "take a drill and drill the seal carefully" advice they stick in every manual nowadays it seems, as this is the 3rd motor I've seen recently with damage like this.
Back together now after daughter deployed to press brakes to do the final new crank bolt torquing and no longer bleeding with new seal. Tomorrow will be assembling some interior bits then I'm done and throwing it out the workshop so I can get on with my landrover's and other stuff.
On these, the end of the crank that the auxillary pulley bolts to is a separate lump sandwiching the camchain sprocket/oil pump sprockets by friction to the crank proper by friction only, so for once that was a advantage, it could be changed if I could find a new old stock one, and ebay eventually yielded one new in the wrapping, which if I locked the motor in place properly I didnt need to mess round with the cam sprocket timing/phasing so only one new stretch bolt for the crank needed + new camcover rubber seals.
So strip the camcover off, put the cam locking tool on, lock the flywheel with a second tool through the bellhousing hole, and back off the camchain tensioner which in situ involved taking off the air intake, disconnecting fuel & breather lines etc. I thought I'd have to take off the intake manifold itself but I managed to get to the tensioner with a 27mm spanner cut into a stub and bent to miss bits with a socket & uj & extension slipped over the stub as a handle. Sooooo much easier on a engine stand, should have done it properly in the first place.
The offending stub of crank. You can see the scratch that cut the new seals across the face with dots next to it. I blame haynes and their "take a drill and drill the seal carefully" advice they stick in every manual nowadays it seems, as this is the 3rd motor I've seen recently with damage like this.
Back together now after daughter deployed to press brakes to do the final new crank bolt torquing and no longer bleeding with new seal. Tomorrow will be assembling some interior bits then I'm done and throwing it out the workshop so I can get on with my landrover's and other stuff.
northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
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In true forum style and following in the footsteps of @The_Yellow_Ardvark I have a very modest collection of vintage oilers, this brass bodied one I picked up only recently, "keep the patina" be burrerred, it got a good clean up:
I need to make a couple sealing washers for it, sometime, it's in the list.
I need to make a couple sealing washers for it, sometime, it's in the list.
droopsnoot
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Whereas my car tells me the battery is on the way out by holding the rev counter at zero for a few seconds when the engine starts, rather than using the perfectly adequate LCD display to display a similar message.
What does it do when the battery really is dead?
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
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At work before mobiles were ubiquitous, we use to page people with "Low Cell" and see how many times they would change the battery in their pager before they cottoned on
