I tried that on my Triumph. Belts all different. Took 2 off leaving just the 1 belt. Made no difference.
- Thread starter Lewis_RX8
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^ that's what I said. Too easy to make assumptions....
prepman
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It is a known issue, http://www.lathes.co.uk/colchester/page3.html
The drive from motor to headstock was by 3 V belts that should, when replaced, be exactly matched for length; if the geared headstock on any Colchester is unacceptably noisy, especially with rattles rather than whines, the cause may be unequal-length drive belts "fighting" each other, cau.......
, but only a possibilty not a definitive answer.
As you quite rightly say it could be other issues, inbalance in chuck, timkin (sic) bearing (sincerely hope not), gearbox or the motor it's self.
I know that a certain industrial compressor had 6 vee belts and was always shredding them. Never gave it much thought, mainly because it wasn't my problem. But like a lot of things as you get older you come across answers to questions from way back. Me and Methuselah often discussed it.
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Compressors are very different to a lathe, in that the load is not constant - quite the opposite in fact. so the belts will be having a hard time, all the time.
My truimph has the motor on a tilting plate, I'm not even sure it's tightened, and I've mot managed to make the belts slip yet. Obviously cuts too light....
My truimph has the motor on a tilting plate, I'm not even sure it's tightened, and I've mot managed to make the belts slip yet. Obviously cuts too light....
I was brave once and tried a very heavy cut - heard the motor working for a living. Chips flying everywhere and a nice finish - must have been a 1/4" cut - lathe just laughed it off.
Forget CNC - Carbide tooling must have been the biggest advance in lathe technology in many a year.
daleyd
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Can't speak for lathe use but for sure using matched sets of belts is a very real thing. I guess lathe use is maybe a bit kinder than what I used to work on drying equipment, big fans that had high starting loads and ran for long periods in hot conditions.
When I used to work for a company that made industrial dryers if we changed a set on the fans that weren't a set then they would usually (though not always) be shredded within a month. Never had a problem with a proper set, they could last 12 months or more, 8/9 fans on a dryer I must have changed hundreds....maybe just lucky but that's my experience.
When I used to work for a company that made industrial dryers if we changed a set on the fans that weren't a set then they would usually (though not always) be shredded within a month. Never had a problem with a proper set, they could last 12 months or more, 8/9 fans on a dryer I must have changed hundreds....maybe just lucky but that's my experience.
prepman
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Nice machine and nice price. I notice it has the early feed lever system? Where you slide across to change feed axis. Word of caution if it is. Be careful we re-engaging the drive that it is still in the same postion and hasn't slid across. I found out the hard way.Well just won my bid on eBay and very happy with my purchase, Seller states 1964 Colchester triumph 30" between centres with a 15" swing and 2" hollow centre
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21" faceplate, then 14" and 8" along with the travelling steady ,12" 4 jaw and 10" 3 jaw fitted to machine and some drive dogs along with carbide insert tooling centres and chucks.
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Also comes fitted with a rapid screwcutting box which I thought it meant it cut the threads physically faster
Only ever worked on my small new mini lathe at home and a brand new Colchester student for apprenticeship training so will be interesting learning about this.
Now just waiting on getting it home and building a three-phase power supply for it, thanks to @fizzy for helping me figure out how it can be palletized
happy with my purchase think it was a good deal and look forward to making some chips on it
They changed it to a safety lever later on.
Lewis_RX8
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Hi sorry reading back my message posted a bit late I did not make it clear that the video was filmed with just one belt ,, I put it in the youtube title but not forum whoops. As you say I have heard of this belts issue before so I ran the lathe with just one and found the exact same problems as I had with 3 belts so I am quite happy with the state of the belts and their matching set due to little change when ran at just one belt.
The other issues are what I am looking to troubleshoot now and agree with you there will need to take out a mortgage to get those bearings replaced. I will try disconnecting certain things in the power train to see if I can find what causes this.
Good idea , Will try with a drive plate on a bit of a lighter load
Lewis_RX8
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Also I have been having some issues with lines in the finish so this could be what is causing it vibrations in the tool maybe but it also could be separate and just down to wear and other things , It is a 50 yr old machine after all 
Yes that is it , slide across for sliding turning or surfacing. Easy way to ruin a part slamming a tool into a part on surfacing mode when meant to take a few thous off.
Nice machine and nice price. I notice it has the early feed lever system? Where you slide across to change feed axis. Word of caution if it is. Be careful we re-engaging the drive that it is still in the same postion and hasn't slid across. I found out the hard way.
Yes that is it , slide across for sliding turning or surfacing. Easy way to ruin a part slamming a tool into a part on surfacing mode when meant to take a few thous off.
Pete.
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Quite a lot of what you'll read on there is copied verbatim from submissions, which can be sent in from anybody. I know because I have submitted stuff and it's appeared word for word (which I don't mind at all as I was describing the operation of a technical part).
What I'm saying is that whilst it's possible that mis-matched belts COULD make for a less smooth running machine it's unlikely to have any real world effect and I would certainly say it isn't the cause of his poor finish.
prepman
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All the feed lever needs is a gravity drop down gate. Thought of making one when I had the apron off. But now I just double check. Mine was fitted with a safety clutch on shaft, unfortunately set to high. When it goes into heavy load it's almost impossible to disengage the lever. It just carries on until switched off. I intend to readjust it. But slight technical issue to pull the feed shaft out (pic) Involves a farm jackAlso I have been having some issues with lines in the finish so this could be what is causing it vibrations in the tool maybe but it also could be separate and just down to wear and other things , It is a 50 yr old machine after all
Yes that is it , slide across for sliding turning or surfacing. Easy way to ruin a part slamming a tool into a part on surfacing mode when meant to take a few thous off.
Has it got the suds pump working? Found mine is similiar to the Clausing version or it's had transplants from one. Tailstock etc.
Sean64
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Have you tried running without the chuck in place ?, try putting a longish bar in the chuck ,set up a dial indicator on the chuck or the bar in the chuck and pull and push on the bar to see if there is any movement ..Got a few bits sorted on the triumph over the holidays
Oil changed in the headstock and screwcutting gearbox
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For some reason all my text is changing to italics now
Little bit of glitter sitting there but not too worried about it no idea how many years it has accumulated that over
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Also had a shot at sorting out these resonance and vibrations seeing if unmatching belts caused the issue but it was not as one belt ran them just fine and all the belts have unique matching marks so I imagine they where a matched set
here is lines in finish with 3 belts that remained unchanged as the vibrations did when it was taken to one belt
Intresting however , When the belts where loose the vibrations where a lot lower IIRC
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A quick vid of vibrations and a weird resonance at about 1000 RPM shown by my handy RPM sensor , These vibrations make it impossible to read dial guages etc when you are near resonance RPM unfortunately however the lathe was never geared to run at 1000RPM but the non two-speed ones were so quite confusing.
Think thats all to report may have more to add in the morning.
Kram
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The finish lines are from feeding I think, changing tool, feed rate or similar will help.
Vibrations Id say your belts a bit tight. Loosen a little. You want it only tight enough that it will not slip on a heavy cut.
Remove the belts and stick an indicator on the pulley groove and check it is running true. If its not, it will give a tight spot and cause the vibration, which is a problem with mine as one of the spacers is pssed. I need to strip it, measure and make a new one. Its enough to make the lathe shake at higher speeds on the big pulley, but no problem in the finish.
Vibrations Id say your belts a bit tight. Loosen a little. You want it only tight enough that it will not slip on a heavy cut.
Remove the belts and stick an indicator on the pulley groove and check it is running true. If its not, it will give a tight spot and cause the vibration, which is a problem with mine as one of the spacers is pssed. I need to strip it, measure and make a new one. Its enough to make the lathe shake at higher speeds on the big pulley, but no problem in the finish.
Lewis_RX8
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I do have those tools which make finer lines but still not ideal lol , Easier to show on the heavier cut tool.I had the lines - you need those tools I linked to!
I found around 400 to 600 rpm with the finest cut gets rid of them. That or a 1/4" cut with a cnmg or similar
Lewis_RX8
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Had a little go at trying to check the spindle bearings, This was done while cold but to be honest, not sure what I am looking for here getting maybe 0.05mm/2 thou depending on pressure but the highest was with bodyweight pulling back and forth on nearly 2 feet of 2" bar securely held in the 3 jaw . I also hope my dial position was okay as didn't want any movement in the bar affecting it too much.
Feel free to completely disregard these readings if the technique is wrong I will have to have another go with any better ideas. Also would be interesting next time the forum triumph owners are dialing anything in on their machines what sort of play they have
Maybe the play is causing these odd lines where it feels smooth to touch but surface finish varies alot.
Feel free to completely disregard these readings if the technique is wrong I will have to have another go with any better ideas. Also would be interesting next time the forum triumph owners are dialing anything in on their machines what sort of play they have
Maybe the play is causing these odd lines where it feels smooth to touch but surface finish varies alot.
roofman
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I think the way to check is with the bar and dial at the tailstock end but instead of tugging on it you get a pry bar under the chuckHad a little go at trying to check the spindle bearings, This was done while cold but to be honest, not sure what I am looking for here getting maybe 0.05mm/2 thou depending on pressure but the highest was with bodyweight pulling back and forth on nearly 2 feet of 2" bar securely held in the 3 jaw . I also hope my dial position was okay as didn't want any movement in the bar affecting it too much.
Feel free to completely disregard these readings if the technique is wrong I will have to have another go with any better ideas. Also would be interesting next time the forum triumph owners are dialing anything in on their machines what sort of play they have
Maybe the play is causing these odd lines where it feels smooth to touch but surface finish varies alot.
Lewis_RX8
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