Slacken the nut off two or three turns and bash it. morse tapers do seat a bit tighter than an int. or a r8 but it will come out with a bash
Well I have bashed it several times with a club hammer and still no joy!
Any ideas?
Slacken the nut off two or three turns and bash it. morse tapers do seat a bit tighter than an int. or a r8 but it will come out with a bash
Well I have bashed it several times with a club hammer and still no joy!
Any ideas?
unscrew the drawbar right out then screw it back in that will prove nothing is stopping it from freeing off tighten it up and then back it off 1 turn on threads one good hard knock and it should remove it . looks like a Clarkson autolock chuck and will be on a morse taper
Don't tickle it, whack it!
If it’s been in a college then I bet the autoloc chuck has never been out.get a load of penetrating oil down the drawerbar hole and let it soak in
My metric drawbar is a piece of m12 studding. No need for anything fancy. I don’t like making fancy things that don’t involve sending an invoice
Damn thing is still stuck fast!
WD40 and Parrafin left overnight - plenty on the chuck underneath so getting through.
I have hit the drawbar pretty hard - starting to bend now!
I spoke to the seller and he says it should just need a light tap - they have taken it out to change tooling several times.
How hard can I hit it before bearings start to suffer?
Damn thing is still stuck fast!
WD40 and Parrafin left overnight - plenty on the chuck underneath so getting through.
I have hit the drawbar pretty hard - starting to bend now!
I spoke to the seller and he says it should just need a light tap - they have taken it out to change tooling several times.
How hard can I hit it before bearings start to suffer?
Ask them to go through the procedure so you know what needs to be done. Keep belting it as suggested and you are going to do some damage IMHO.