Well I have bashed it several times with a club hammer and still no joy!
Don't tickle it, whack it!
Don't belt it so hard you do some damage, check out why it isn't moving before you do any more.
unscrew the drawbar right out then screw it back in that will prove nothing is stopping it from freeing off tighten it up and then back it off 1 turn on threads one good hard knock and it should remove it . looks like a Clarkson autolock chuck and will be on a morse taper
Already did that. Just doesn't want to budge.
That is probably my problem but the so called draw bar looks like cheap threaded studding!
If it’s been in a college then I bet the autoloc chuck has never been out.get a load of penetrating oil down the drawerbar hole and let it soak in
Just done that fingers crossed will leave it overnight
This is the draw bar.
Looks rough to me.
Looks rough to me too, I think you'll be making a new one when you get the chuck out.
Is it screwing into the chuck with the stripped thread?
the threads on the end are cream crackered cut them off screw it back in to collet chuck tight and whack it again without the nut on don't know why its reduced in size not stopping the drawbar going all the way through is it when its hit
It actually fits fine. Just rough and poorly made.
It seems to go all the way through.
My metric drawbar is a piece of m12 studding. No need for anything fancy. I don’t like making fancy things that don’t involve sending an invoice
Ditto, but I've M16 AND 5/8" Whitworth for the assorted tooling, will probably need one of those Filthy American threads some day...
Dave H. (the other one)
Damn thing is still stuck fast!
WD40 and Parrafin left overnight - plenty on the chuck underneath so getting through.
I have hit the drawbar pretty hard - starting to bend now!
I spoke to the seller and he says it should just need a light tap - they have taken it out to change tooling several times.
How hard can I hit it before bearings start to suffer?
You might be better drifting it out at the spindle nose if you can get a wedge between the spindle and the upper face of the collet holder.
Regarding hammering on the drawbar, spring loaded drawbars need 400lbs + on them to release the collet.
what size is the end which screws into the chuck 10mm / 12mm? do you have some threaded rod which will replace the whole lot so you can ensure it is going into the chuck then hit that?
I am wondering if it has something to do with the fact that it is double diameter?
Ask them to go through the procedure so you know what needs to be done. Keep belting it as suggested and you are going to do some damage IMHO.
Yes asked that - no procedure should just work!
Constructional drawing of what worked for me in similar circumstances (which is why I bought a mill with an Int40 spindle...)
Dave H. (the other one)
Separate names with a comma.