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View attachment 162778
that's sort of what I meant by "old style chisel knife"
the ones I have have a straight blade - no taper.
Yep that defo is a glazers knife
View attachment 162778
that's sort of what I meant by "old style chisel knife"
the ones I have have a straight blade - no taper.
View attachment 162778
that's sort of what I meant by "old style chisel knife"
the ones I have have a straight blade - no taper.
.This is the style I have
.View attachment 162778
that's sort of what I meant by "old style chisel knife"
the ones I have have a straight blade - no taper.
I know it as a hacking knife, I'd assume not too hard a steel and so a fairly blunt knife (Or rather, doesn't keep an edge too long), I can't see it being too useful for leather work.That is a Glazier Knife or hacking knife. Thick back to hallow a Hard .Wood mallet to strike it to remove Linseed Oil based putty.
More likely to be a decent steel for the glazier will be chopping out copper plated steel sprag nails in the putty if it is a wooden framed window , also hard putty can be like cutting into solid limestone .I know it as a hacking knife, I'd assume not too hard a steel and so a fairly blunt knife (Or rather, doesn't keep an edge too long), I can't see it being too useful for leather work.
Classic forum stuffAnd the project is lost amongst a debate over a knifes intended use.
I forgot about Kent, haven’t seen him post for a while ?
Sorry been busy with things. How you harden and temper depends totally on the material used.
As a guide bearing in mind what files are often made of and the fact its not been forged
Heat to light red towards orange and dunk in light oil, test and check a file wint bite
Clean the blade well and put in your oven for about 2 hours on high and it should turn dark straw
Thats the easy way
If it doesnt get hard on the oil quench, try lighter oil, if nothing then change to brine
Lots of other ways but the above is the easiest way with limited practice (great word for past bad moves)
If that's an old file, you may find a water quench will give you a much harder result. Brittle too before you temper.
W2 although a water quench steel will likely crack in water / brine because its a lot thinner than the manufauring tolling etc its normally used to make . Same runs with most water cooled steelsIf that's an old file, you may find a water quench will give you a much harder result. Brittle too before you temper.