Help offered cheap lathe but....

[dieselsamurai]

Or a variation on the French key as below (is this a screwed French key ???).

View attachment 338970

This one has a normal key too, but the grub screw keeps the lateral position as there's no room for a circlip.
So loctite, then when its gone off drill and tap for a grub screw.

Or if you decide to go loctite and taper pin I have pins and reamers you're welcome to borrow.

yet another option i like too

have you got any 3mm and 3.5mm taper reamers ? ive ordered some as need to ream out a gear and shaft with a misaligned one needed drilling out but they may not be the best quality will have to see

 

[Pete.]

I sometimes use roll pins in holes where a taper pin has been removed, if the pin has got trashed in the process. If you need extra shear strength just fit a roll pin then ift a smaller one inside it.

 

[dieselsamurai]

Tailstock derusted check and assembled will need to readjust offset but I'll do that when saddle finished , bit dopey its MT2 bt I can live with that



It looks rough but just cosmetic call it patina

Taper assembly also fitted and cleaned up quite well , had to make some bushes as the holes in it were 11mm for some reason but the slot on the lathe would only take m8 T nuts . There was probably some special T bolts but got lost

 

[Seadog]

You have a TTA, and there's plenty of meat in the quill. Take it out to MT3. I did one for Spencer from MT1 to MT2 on his Mellor.

 

[dieselsamurai]

You have a TTA, and there's plenty of meat in the quill. Take it out to MT3. I did one for Spencer from MT1 to MT2 on his Mellor.

I think once the lathe is up and running I may well do that

 

[Martin-Sy]

have you got any 3mm and 3.5mm taper reamers ? ive ordered some as need to ream out a gear and shaft with a misaligned one needed drilling out but they may not be the best quality will have to see

Sorry, been out all day. Will take a look tomorrow. I think mine are all imperial so the taper will be 1:48, whereas your machine is European so metric and (I assume) the taper will be 1:50.
Not that it makes much difference as long as you use a matched pin/reamer combination.
Which end of Hampshire are you? We're not far from the Surrey/Hants border.
Can always post them though as they're neither big or heavy.

 

[Martin-Sy]

In that approx size I have 1/8" and 3/16". The small end of the 3/16" is about 3.5mm and the large end of the 1/8" is 3.2mm (ish).
PM me if you'd like to borrow.

 

[Hopefuldave]

In that approx size I have 1/8" and 3/16". The small end of the 3/16" is about 3.5mm and the large end of the 1/8" is 3.2mm (ish).
PM me if you'd like to borrow.

Note that the taper is slightly different, metric are 1:50 (20mm in a metre) and Imperial 1:48 (1/4" in a foot) - pretty close though, if the taper pins are good and soft...

Dave H. (the other one)

Yes, I'm a mine of useless information.

 

[dieselsamurai]

In that approx size I have 1/8" and 3/16". The small end of the 3/16" is about 3.5mm and the large end of the 1/8" is 3.2mm (ish).
PM me if you'd like to borrow.

Cheers Martin I'll let you know if i need to borrow any , im on the south coast near Portsmouth but travel a lot with work.

 

[dieselsamurai]

Note that the taper is slightly different, metric are 1:50 (20mm in a metre) and Imperial 1:48 (1/4" in a foot) - pretty close though, if the taper pins are good and soft...

Dave H. (the other one)

Yes, I'm a mine of useless information.

Also metric taper pins sized from small end Imperial from the other , no idea why but its something I learnt along the way

 

[dieselsamurai]

ok resurrecting an old thread as things have moved on but slowly due to work life etc anyway have a few pictures for those that are interested



in the i locktighted it and crossed drilled and taper pinned it , so many options but i had a taper pin and reamer so went with it

had the same problem with my Raglan Lathe after a stupid mistake



decided to end drill and pin it as I re-used the original shaft by turning off the broken gear to leave a stub to fit the new gear



worked perfectly , replacement over £70 new gear £8 about an hours work so worth it

 

[dieselsamurai]

Lots of crud in the apron so decided to make something to stop swarf from entering through the power shaft as almost funnelled in there at the moment



Made a cover for the bearing holder that the power shaft drives through that includes a tight fitting 3d printed sleeve that rotates with it but held withing the cover if that makes sense



this is then locked in place by a grub screw

 

[paradipiro]

I own the same E3N-01 lathe, as you guys. If anyone needs some info about the machine, i have the original manual for it, so I can translate the interesting parts what you need.

 

[Martin-Sy]

Good to see you back on the lathe @dieselsamurai . Nice repair on the rack pinion

@paradipiro does the manual say that there were two bed lengths available?
It looks odd that the bed hangs over the end of the base.

 

[Agroshield]

It looks odd that the bed hangs over the end of the base.

I wonder if there is some clever Hungarian engineering going on there. If the rear bed support is slightly inboard of the end of the bed, the overhanging bit of bed at the tailstock end will decrease the sag in the part of the bed between the supports.

The designers may have been trying to replicate Airy points and Bessel points, used in relation to length standards and straight edges.

 

[paradipiro]

Good to see you back on the lathe @dieselsamurai . Nice repair on the rack pinion

@paradipiro does the manual say that there were two bed lengths available?
It looks odd that the bed hangs over the end of the base.

Yes, there are several variants of this machine. The length between centers vary between 500 and 750mm.
There base variant has roller bearings, but there is another with tighter tolerances, what uses teaditional sliding main bearings. There is another with enlarged height over the bed, and there is a military version too (bigger height over bed, there is third, slower speed option, what uses an unique flat head, with an internal gearset, for the lowest speeds, and the first couple inches of the bed can be taken out, to fit truck brakedrums to clean up, and also the cross way is wider in the front, these machines are E3N-02).

 

[paradipiro]

Decided to clean up the drills just to see how bad the rust was and they came up ok

Some of the flutes a bit worn but probably chucked around without care most of there lives, cutting edges look good no chips. ive used worse and been ok

View attachment 334758

Knurler was next , cleaned up on wire wheel in bench grinder. Has hit a chuck at some point but no damage on the ones i have. All the wheels look good and are free

View attachment 334755View attachment 334756View attachment 334757

So I decided to strip the 4 jaw down next as main body going in electrolysis tank. Tried one jaw and it cleaned up good so hopefully chuck should too

View attachment 334754View attachment 334753 View attachment 334759

That taper attachment is rare in my country (Hungary where all these machines was made) i think all the exported ones had this feature. The crossfeen screw is two pieces, with a key feature connecting them togedher. The thread is on the back part of it, and the taper attachment drags the cross slide with the thread-nut combo. You can zero the cross slide while the taper is intact, because the key still trasfers the rotation of the screw. Neat feature, taper threads, here they come!

If you need to cut imperial threads, just add a gear with 127no. Teeth. If you must cut DP, you will need 113 and 96 no teeth gears in the setup, with 2 pieces of Z48 gears also. ( Thats the most difficult setup).

These machines are really pricy back here, i wonder how could you buy one at this reasonable price, despite its look. Used ones back here is aroun 3-4000 £, and you got the most useful attachments too.

 

[dieselsamurai]

That taper attachment is rare in my country (Hungary where all these machines was made) i think all the exported ones had this feature. The crossfeen screw is two pieces, with a key feature connecting them togedher. The thread is on the back part of it, and the taper attachment drags the cross slide with the thread-nut combo. You can zero the cross slide while the taper is intact, because the key still trasfers the rotation of the screw. Neat feature, taper threads, here they come!

If you need to cut imperial threads, just add a gear with 127no. Teeth. If you must cut DP, you will need 113 and 96 no teeth gears in the setup, with 2 pieces of Z48 gears also. ( Thats the most difficult setup).

These machines are really pricy back here, i wonder how could you buy one at this reasonable price, despite its look. Used ones back here is aroun 3-4000 £, and you got the most useful attachments too.

Hi yes i was lucky to get the taper attachment i guess like you say exported ones are fitted as standard

i got very few gears with the lathe but have 3D printed some to use it with and not got up to date with thius thread yet but lathe is working well with them so I have a full set now

The lathe history is unknown before I got it but as it was thrown in with some vehicles to settle a debt to my friend it ended up owing him nothing and just in his way I got lucky TBH although a lot of work so far

Biggest problem is the chuck fitting as its unusual here but the actual nose taper is the same a D1-4 camlock i would just need to drill new holes for the clamping bolts as sods law they are a few mm different diameter

 

[paradipiro]

Hi yes i was lucky to get the taper attachment i guess like you say exported ones are fitted as standard

i got very few gears with the lathe but have 3D printed some to use it with and not got up to date with thius thread yet but lathe is working well with them so I have a full set now

The lathe history is unknown before I got it but as it was thrown in with some vehicles to settle a debt to my friend it ended up owing him nothing and just in his way I got lucky TBH although a lot of work so far

Biggest problem is the chuck fitting as its unusual here but the actual nose taper is the same a D1-4 camlock i would just need to drill new holes for the clamping bolts as sods law they are a few mm different diameter

The spindle taper is standardized, and can be turned on the machine itself easily, if you have one chuck or the flat disk what fits well. The flat on the back and the cone should be hold together, the cone can be smaller just with a hair, so the three bolt will expand it to the right size when you swap it.

Can you post some pictures of your machine, how is it turned out now?

 

[Agroshield]

...the first couple inches of the bed can be taken out...

In UK/US terms, this would be called a 'gap bed lathe'. The piece you take out is called the 'gap'.

How strange is the English language? You remove the gap to create a gap. You put back the gap to fill the gap so that having a gap in place means there is no gap.