Lol £9 for the hardener and £11 for postage. Kinda expensive when I only need 250ml.
Not at all....its all well and good requiring safety equipment but the latest paints are getting more and more dangerous.
I saw a previous thread by HughF where he used 2k hardener with synthetic paint. Has anyone else tried this?
If you have breathing equipment I wouldn't bother with synthetic myself, go in with 2k.
Unfortunately I don't. Would it be expensive?
Yep too expensive
I'll consider it for future jobs though.
cheap HVLP turbine gun (spray tan style) - synthetic paint...
Use the turbine because: warm air dries the pain faster, less overspray, no need for a reg/oil+water seperator
I'm trying to cut costs here, not increase them lol. I guess £20 for hardener is cheaper than £100 for a turbine sprayer...
the bad stuff is in the hardener , so if youre prepared to mix it with some random paint , might as well order the proper 2k and take the advantage of using it
wipe it down and lash over it with this if not too picky
works better warm
I went to a paint shop earlier. I went for the cheapest option which was an industrial cellulose. I bought 2 litres along with anti bloom thinners. At 1:1 that gives me 4 litres. That should be enough, right?
I'll put some pics up soon.
are you doing the roof or leaving it...alot of paint there for something you never see
I haven't actually had a good look at the roof yet, but I do know there's a bit of rust on it, and a dent right by the windscreen.
Brush the roof with some Dulux or similar household gloss
or brush in the rust spots with a brush and whats left over ?
Depends how well it covers and how much body is in it. Personally I'd have used synthetic and blown over one coat. You would have got the coverage and gloss in a single coat. Unlikely with cellulose.
Yes that sounds like a plan. I was thinking of leaving it til the summer to tackle it, haven't quite decided yet. It's already taking quite some time to do the prep. I don't like the idea of going all this way to end up with a crap result, so I'm putting in the time to get it right.
I ground down any rust spots (there were lots) and went over the whole van with a 40 grit on a DA today. It hasn't torn up the paint, in fact it's left it quite smooth.
I ground back most of the visible rust on the arches. One of them is quite badly perforated and will need a new section welding in. However I had the idea to brush both sides with por 15 and then using fibreglass filler on the back, and body filler on the outside. Good idea?
On the other arches, I was thinking of doing the same with the por 15, but skipping the filler and then simply painting over it. Will that look bad after the paint goes on?
Ideally you need to get to 400 before putting the paint on. After priming I use 800 before the base goes on.
A few questions about por 15 if anyone is able to answer them :
Is it sandable?
Can I paint over it?
Can I body filler over it?
It’s expensive rubbish.
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