Colchester Bantam Mk1 1600

[Dieselman 63]

This job was easier, getting the cross slide on, unfortunately the screws still haven’t turned up and currently the gibs are held by one cap screw and four grub screws each... not ideal.

The compound dial went on fine, how I’ve managed not to lose the bronze centre piece is anybody’s guess...

The new handle needs paint - I spun it up in the Graduate and buffed up the edge, but it needs painting too. It’s only really this holding it back at the moment, so tomorrow will be touching up some paint elsewhere on the machine, fitting the second rear headstock lever, general tidying etc. So far so good...

 

[Dieselman 63]

A word of warning for those buying the compound nut off eBay, it is about 3mm too long. A disappointing moment to discover this as I’ve just reassembled the compound and found it to be very tight - was turning off centre.

 

[Dieselman 63]

All back together now - saddle complete. Apron still needs a handwheel and some paint. I found 3/4 of the required screws in the gib strip of the old compound. They were duly stolen and repurposed.

It’s getting close!

 

[Dieselman 63]

Well I’ve been having fun tonight turning on my lathe finally!

The chuck you sent me @Ton-up and the compound you sent me @Seadog are both on and I have to say the thing works beautifully, so thank you both for these parts. Thanks to John Greene too who said he follows this thread and was kind enough to send me the taper turner (which works well). I’ve yet to clock everything up, finish the tailstock, splash guard and coolant setup however, it runs!

I put a 1ph 1425rpm motor on which gives me 800rpm max speed. I’ve been testing the gearbox and the apron power-feed controls, and have had a go at feeding in both directions to good effect. Leadscrew works well too.

There is still some way to go on this restoration including setting up a Chinese vfd, but for now I’m well chuffed

(pic right before I put a tool in - some minor teething issues had to be resolved, someone managed to reassemble the bronze paddles in the headstock the wrong way around... which became apparent at 300rpm with a high pitched ringing sound!)

 

[Dieselman 63]

All good things must come to an end, and the crappy motor I put on the lathe gave up at 1am which sent the workshop into darkness. I’m not sure what’s gone wrong with it but I can’t be bothered to find out tbh, especially when I have the proper motor almost ready! One more end cap to do and this goes back together. I’ve used some really horrible paint for this, Rustoleum 2X, it sort of never fully hardens and goes on thick from the spray can. Buy this brand if you want faint fingerprints from handling
something you painted a week ago!

Found some literature from Brook Crompton whilst tidying up, one part said motor vents should never be covered up... the Bantam motor had (from factory) two plates covering the top vents, presumably to prevent swarf ingress.

Power test round two coming soon...

 

[Dieselman 63]

Almost all the change gears cleaned. I’m still missing the 33 tooth one.

 

[Agroshield]

I’m still missing the 33 tooth one.

Have a look on UK eBay for a seller called you_engraving. His gears are good and cheap (e.g. item number 273992666864. A 33t should be similar price). It would cost me more than that in time just to broach the splines. And being delrin should be light to post.

 

[Dieselman 63]

It lives!

Proper motor is on, you have no idea how much of a pain putting this thing on is. Super heavy and awkward. Took me like an hour as the screws kept wanting to cross thread, but finally got it in. Pic is me getting it on, it sits properly now just in case you’re wondering.

Anyway, it’s up and working and I’m loving it. Need to buy a dti and clock it. Finish the tailstock, all the guards need fitting and finishing, bit more paint in places, coolant needs work too. This thread ain’t over yet!

 

[God mode restorations]

It lives!

Proper motor is on, you have no idea how much of a pain putting this thing on is. Super heavy and awkward. Took me like an hour as the screws kept wanting to cross thread, but finally got it in.

Anyway, it’s up and working and I’m loving it. Need to buy a dti and clock it. Finish the tailstock, all the guards need fitting and finishing, bit more paint in places, coolant needs work too. This thread ain’t over yet!

Good stuff mate. Ya almost there.

 

[Dieselman 63]

Good stuff mate. Ya almost there.

Cant tell you how much I love just turning metal down. Gonna enjoy learning how to screw cut. Then there is acme threading too...

 

[fizzy]

Well I’ve been having fun tonight turning on my lathe finally!

The chuck you sent me @Ton-up and the compound you sent me @Seadog are both on and I have to say the thing works beautifully, so thank you both for these parts. Thanks to John Greene too who said he follows this thread and was kind enough to send me the taper turner (which works well). I’ve yet to clock everything up, finish the tailstock, splash guard and coolant setup however, it runs!

I put a 1ph 1425rpm motor on which gives me 800rpm max speed. I’ve been testing the gearbox and the apron power-feed controls, and have had a go at feeding in both directions to good effect. Leadscrew works well too.

There is still some way to go on this restoration including setting up a Chinese vfd, but for now I’m well chuffed

(pic right before I put a tool in - some minor teething issues had to be resolved, someone managed to reassemble the bronze paddles in the headstock the wrong way around... which became apparent at 300rpm with a high pitched ringing sound!)

Is that a Crawford chuck?
I just LOVE collet chucks!
To think collets were the first type of chuck invented and they are still the best!
I have the Jacobs Rubberflex for mine. I couldn't find anything for sensible money in L1.

 

[Dieselman 63]

Is that a Crawford chuck?
I just LOVE collet chucks!
To think collets were the first type of chuck invented and they are still the best!
I have the Jacobs Rubberflex for mine. I couldn't find anything for sensible money in L1.

No, it’s a Burnerd Multisize and I’m using E type collets which are the later release, M came first. I prefer the Multisize over Crawford as I believe the latter are four pieces you have to insert - Multisize have sprung fins which are pushed in as the collet is wound into the taper of the chuck. It’s a pretty cool system - I’ll post some pics tomorrow

I was looking at getting a Rubberflex, it looked real cool, but I had the collets and needed to buy a chuck. I had a set of M type actually but sold them, they hold their value really well, proper British precision engineering.

 

[Ton-up]

Glad your'e happy with it Chad!!

Lathe looking great...

 

[Dieselman 63]

Glad you’re happy with it Chad!!

Lathe looking great...

Still got that Bisto tin btw. It’s nice and big, it lives in my shed and I use it to store seeds for my cold frame

 

[Ton-up]

aah Bisto!!

 

[Dieselman 63]

Spurred on by @fizzy I thought I’d show the Multisize chuck, and what better way to do so than a disassembly.

Firstly you need to locate this screw which comes out easy enough. With your hand under the chuck, roll it around and about 30 steel balls will roll out. You can then pull the toothed collar off, and clean it, nice and easy job. Both sides of the race will have gunk on them, and a bit of degreaser helps.

For reassembly, put the collar back on and get the race lined up, then feed the balls back down the screw hole, and they’ll flow into the race. Put some oil down the hole, put the screw back in and job done, it’s easy as, and makes a big difference.

My chuck had crash damage I think, not sure how, perhaps you could enlighten us @Ton-up

I had fun machining the face smooth. The swarf was weird, very fine and faint blue, kept catching on fire. I took several very light passes on auto feed, the result looks and feels amazing, I can’t feel any grooves with my nail.

 

[Dieselman 63]

So anyway, the Multisize collets come in tins, and they’re nice and substantial boxes, I keep mine coated with atf fluid. You can see the collets are quite substantial too - the fins get pushed inwards as the collet is drawn into the taper.

Each collet has a max size bar it can take and you can feed through the headstock. The locking collar I machined then screws in and you have a toothed key much like a drill chuck which winds it all together.

 

[Ton-up]

Hi Chad, crash damage, how dare you!!!!!

Seriously, I have never used it. I told you about the segment mark on the front but what else did you find?

 

[Dieselman 63]

Hi Chad, crash damage, how dare you!!!!!

Seriously, I have never used it. I told you about the segment mark on the front but what else did you find?

Haha! Just two good gouges on the front, took a skim off and made it smooth and pretty again. That segment thing was weird. It’s gone away (for now) after machining - perhaps it was stained with acid or something?

Internally it was fine, great condition. Just cleaned out the usual crud and changed the oil. I do enjoy things which can be serviced by the operator!

 

[Ton-up]

I thought you meant it was damaged, not cosmetic!!