steveo3002
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i also tried pushing the slave rod in /out gently as per a few youtube vids - no change
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no , but if its working enough to get you gears , it would tend to suggest the mechanical bits are good , that was my thoughts ...
steveo3002
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during my recent fiddlings i have had it good enough to select gears and whizzed it up the road , it seemed to get a bit worse
then i ordered the new parts etc and am no further forward today...well worse as its not drivble at all
then i ordered the new parts etc and am no further forward today...well worse as its not drivble at all
when your bleeding it with the cyl clamped , try lifting the cyl and curly pipe as high as you can to let any air in the curly bit find its way up to the top , ,, and bleed it with a bit of clear hose from the nipple into a bottle so you can see whats coming out , obviously you cant do this on your own , its all thats left without taking the curl off and back bleeding it on its own and trying to put the lot back on without loosing fluid , that would be tricky though.
steveo3002
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i did have it as high as i could , gave the rubber a wiggle while the pressure bleeder was on it and a bubble came out , i thought yeah that was it but no better
so were are agreed the master end north of the rubber is okay
no fluid is squirting out the seals when i press the pedal with slave clamped so yeah must be air? and would explain why other previous parts were ok all along
so were are agreed the master end north of the rubber is okay
no fluid is squirting out the seals when i press the pedal with slave clamped so yeah must be air? and would explain why other previous parts were ok all along
If the coiled pipe is potentially causing that much trouble, I would be tempted to bypass it with a flexi (as I think you have suggested). Surely if the flexi is a little long and secured properly it will do the same job as the coil allowing for movement at the gearbox without wrenching the master?
steveo3002
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i have a flexi.....2 weeks ago flexi was on with old parts and same as now
i think im going to see if i can pull master ,pipe and slave in one , get it on the bench all pointing up hill and see wht happens , then see if i can refit if its succesfull
i think im going to see if i can pull master ,pipe and slave in one , get it on the bench all pointing up hill and see wht happens , then see if i can refit if its succesfull
crazy amount of messing about ,,, but really your not gaining much over just having the slave loose on the car ,,, you do have someone working the pedal end , your not trying to do both bits on your own ?
steveo3002
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been pressure bleeding it mrs is at work lol
off the car i could throw the whole lot around alot more ....ive bled it forever , cant believe theres air in it really
off the car i could throw the whole lot around alot more ....ive bled it forever , cant believe theres air in it really
old merc clutches are similar , and unless you get a really good full flow of fluid they just trap air ,,, you really need someone at the pedal once it does not go to plan though. Again shame Im not local ,,,
steveo3002
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very little online about others having real issues, not really known as a problem car
will get the helper onto it with me
will get the helper onto it with me
Oh. Sorry. How weird.
Go old school - open bleed, assistant pumps pedal, close bleed, assistant raises pedal and repeat I guess..! The little one way valves are cheap enough to buy and may be worth a go if noone is around to help.
steveo3002
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it self bleeds somewhat ...got about a foot of bubble free fluid then it slowed up
Get your wife to pump the pedal 5 times and hold it down, open and close bleed nipple then repeat.
If you have some spare parts I'd be tempted to pump pedal while pressurising master cylinder.
If pedal is "spongey" with clutch slave rod clamped down then I wouldn't be removing gearbox just yet.
If you have some spare parts I'd be tempted to pump pedal while pressurising master cylinder.
If pedal is "spongey" with clutch slave rod clamped down then I wouldn't be removing gearbox just yet.
steveo3002
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i was told as soon as its away from rest the feed port is blocked off so no point?
I suppose while feed port is open it's getting pressurised fluid to pump though, less chance of sucking air back up the system?.
I blead more than 8 meters of bone dry brake lines and 4 calipers with a litre of fluid and same pressure bleeder (Sealey?).
I blead more than 8 meters of bone dry brake lines and 4 calipers with a litre of fluid and same pressure bleeder (Sealey?).
steveo3002
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yeah ive bled many brake systems , i dont really see what im doing wrong lol
roofman
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In these circumstances it can be drawing air from the nipple thread when bleeding, wrap some PTFE tape around the bleed nipple thread and try that. Had the same heartache on a bike once trying to bleed a front caliper, found the air was getting back in via the nipple thread being worn.
