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keithski122
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Years and years ago I had a mini which I had a problem with the clutch clearing, operating lever wasn't bent and worked fine when using a large pry bar on the lever, everything was bled fine. In the end I made an extendable rod for the slave cylinder to give extra movement to the rod.Is it possible the rod on the slave cylinder is too short or bore too big?
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why not take the connection off the slave cyl , bung on an old brake caliper and bung a few pads in it to take up the gap ,,, bleed that in situ , then you have half the system bled and tested ,,, if it works bung the connection back on the slave cyl ,,, it really shouldnt cause this much grief , now it is causing grief start eliminating things .
steveo3002
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could if i had an m12 fitting caliper ...but then isnt that job much the same as clamping the rubber hose
steveo3002
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ive thought about extending the rod (theres only one size slave avail for these ) and i even had the orig factory slave refurbished as i thought maybe theres some magic inside it lol , anyway always been shot down if i say about extending it , and how would i know when its just enough and im not riding the release bearing all day long? if i could be sure im not on the bearing id happily give it bash
nope ,, as you can see whats going on with a caliper , and it has a bleed point , so you can bleed the top half of the system and be happy its working then its just a swap of cylinders . several posts ago I did mention taking the cylinder off the bell housing and putting a g clamp on it , so you could get the cyl in an orientation that would let gravity bleed it ,,, it is still an option .
steveo3002
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i cant orientate it so its all down hill....would it even gravity bleed with the coiled line?
ive given up until the new parts arrive anyway
ive given up until the new parts arrive anyway
think he said it was all brand new ,,, could be wrong though
it does not have to be down hill ,,, thats part of the issue , it needs to bleed at the highest point . ie bleednipple above the cylinder , as long as its below the reservoir it will self bleed. Well see what happens when new bits arrive ,,,, I had a G60 and did 120k miles in it ,, great wee car.
steveo3002
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is that what you would try first? crack the nipple and wait how long?
tempted to try the vac bleeder ...i dunno fed up with it really
tempted to try the vac bleeder ...i dunno fed up with it really
few mins will tell you that you have flow or not ,,, if you can get the bleed nipple higher than the rest of the cylinder and the loops in the pipe it will bleed ,,, ideally self bleed , if not you will have to pump it , if you do need to pump the pedal you will have to clamp the rod in... or cut out a notch in a plank and use that as a clamp to stop the piston coming out ,,, I dont know if they have a circlip on the end of the slave cylinder or not ,,, so air on the side of caution ,,,, crack the bleed nipple before you take the cyl off , and only snug it up , then your not trying to wrestle with a tight nipple and a clamp and a bit of hose all at once .... i take it you have someone to pump the pedal for you , as its hard to do both bits on your own.
steveo3002
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i can get the mrs to help if need be , just trying to be super carefull with the new bits
if i clamp it...push the rod all the way in ? or just clamping it anywhere will do? dont want to damage something forcing it too far
master has a bleeder on as well...where does that fit in with gravity bleed? do that first or let it all go out the slave?
if i clamp it...push the rod all the way in ? or just clamping it anywhere will do? dont want to damage something forcing it too far
master has a bleeder on as well...where does that fit in with gravity bleed? do that first or let it all go out the slave?
ideally clamp it all the way in ,,,
try cracking the master cyl bleed and do it the old fashioned way ,,,, ie one in the car and one on the pedal ,,, crack the nipple a tad and shout down ,,, person on the pedal pushes pedal down slowly and then holds the pedal down ,,, shouts down ,,,,, nip up the nipple , then shout up ,,, person inside lets pedal up slowly and when its up shouts up ,,,
its the slow , and the holds that make it all work well if you dont have hoses with valves and all that jazzy stuff . keep an eye on the fluid ,,,, but a couple of pumps should get you a clear smooth flow at the cyl , then just crack the lower nipple on the slave but give it a full turn , with it in the up most position and about a foot below the fluid level in the master and wait ,,,,, fluid should flow ,,, wait till its clean and smooth , nip up the nipple and away you go ,,,,, if it does not come through by gravity , keep the nipple higher than the loops and the slave cyl , and with it clamped ,use the up / up ,,,, down / down method to bleed it using pressure from master cyl ,,,,
the up then confirm up ,,,, down and hold etc sounds slow but its not ,,,, what it is however is foolproof.
let me know how that goes. where are you ,, maybe someone local could pop past . I do lots of the pop past thing for folk.
steveo3002
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yeah cheers for the help , will report back
I know a lot of that sounds very basic ,,, but sometimes basic is a great starting point.
I like simple , it suits my way of thinking ,,, lol ,, good luck.
steveo3002
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yeah anything that works eh
Gareth_16V
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I mean does the pedal come back up far enough to allow the piston in the master cylinder to come all the way back out to it's stop? Usually that would mean a small amount of free play in the linkage before the pushrod starts moving the system.
I am aligned with you that extending the pushrod will not cause more clutch travel - as the hydraulic system will self-adjust.
Stupid question, the cylinder bores of the new parts (master and slave cylinders) matches the originals?
steveo3002
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pedal at rest is sitting with the master rod at the fully out position
yes to the bore , only one size available
yes to the bore , only one size available
