clutch hyd and bleeding- check my work

[tom2207]

yeah dunno thought it was almost a dead cert that it was done now , the feed to the master is just push fit might have tweaked that and let air in

wouldnt matter ,, unless you were very unlucky as the fluid will be trapped between the two cyls , the master is only there to top it up ,,, if that was the case , unlikely still ,, bleed the master cyl bleed nipple ,,, again , two people and a hose and jar , watch fluid level and lock off nipple at the bottom on each stroke holding pedal down , then slowly letting pedal return .... occasionally put in a pressure bleed ,,,

pump pedal three or four times ,,, hold pressure with foot on pedal ,,, just crack the nipple , when the pedal hits the floor , hold it there and shout down ,,,, person doing the bleeding tightens nipple , then shouts up ,,, person on pedal slowly lets pedal up , and shouts up ,,,, then still with nipples closed ,,, try pedal .

 

[tom2207]

I have had a thought and its just a thought( dangerous).
This may not be a bleeding issue, you could get the same symptoms if one or more of the fingers on the clutch cover have been "twatted"pulled/bent forward while wrestling the gearbox into place. You could be wasting a lot of the limited slave travel getting the thrust bearing to the start point/flat on the rest of the cover. Might be worth poking a rod into the clutch fork by hand to see if it meets any partial resistance.

Bob

forward wouldnt matter much ,,, backwards would though , as you would loose lots of the slave piston movement just taking up the slack ,,,

again , just thinking out loud

but yesterday it was driving , so clearing the clutch drag , just not getting reverse ,,,

 

[steveo3002]

just thought of one possible error, when i let the slave rod go , i left the cap tight on the filler

 

[8ob]

forward wouldnt matter much ,,, backwards would though , as you would loose lots of the slave piston movement just taking up the slack ,,,

again , just thinking out loud

but yesterday it was driving , so clearing the clutch drag , just not getting reverse ,,,

Thats what I was getting at.

Bob

 

[tom2207]

just thought of one possible error, when i let the slave rod go , i left the cap tight on the filler

would have held a vacum not pulled air , with luck ,,, but no harm , if that was the case its still only one pump to sort it ,,,
its so frustrating when its not in front of ya

 

[steveo3002]

with the slave off i can work the clutch fork , it moves guessing 5-7mm until contact

im clearly doing something , at one point i had it selecting gears with no crunch , span it up the road and pedal wasnt good enough so kept on at it , then ive made it so it wont select at all , so i was almost there the other day , hoping it suggests the clutch hardware is okay

 

[tom2207]

Thats what I was getting at.

Bob

your probably closer than me ,,, can you not just call past and sort it ,,,

 

[tom2207]

with the slave off i can work the clutch fork , it moves guessing 5-7mm until contact

im clearly doing something , at one point i had it selecting gears with no crunch , span it up the road and pedal wasnt good enough so kept on at it , then ive made it so it wont select at all , so i was almost there the other day , hoping it suggests the clutch hardware is okay

yep thats what I thought you had said ,,, but no harm in checking basics again so we are all on the same page

 

[steveo3002]

I have had a thought and its just a thought( dangerous).
This may not be a bleeding issue, you could get the same symptoms if one or more of the fingers on the clutch cover have been "twatted"pulled/bent forward while wrestling the gearbox into place. You could be wasting a lot of the limited slave travel getting the thrust bearing to the start point/flat on the rest of the cover. Might be worth poking a rod into the clutch fork by hand to see if it meets any partial resistance.

Bob

appreciate the thought

remember i had much the same before i touched the clutch , pedal was poor and after repeated hyd work i assumed the clutch fork was bent as they can on these , replaced the clutch and fork and all the old parts were serviceable still

 

[steveo3002]

long story short

had this car 24 years
sometime years ago i let the fluid get low when bleeding the brakes and messed up the clutch , its never been what id call perfect since then but was okay to drive and i lived with it , over the years ive replaced all the hyd bits and hose and always wanted it better , blamed the braided hose up until recently

pedal bite was always very low , so still unhappy and had a few quid spare decided to pull the box and replace the clutch and fork and any wear n tear items as its all 32 years old ....all was found to be in good order

so in short it wasnt the clutch fork

 

[Ubique]

The only thing that appears to have not been examined & tested in detail is the pipe from the fluid reservoir & the pickup in the reservoir itself. As it's not under pressure you could replace the pipe between the fluid reservoir & the clutch master with some clear pipe for testing, obviously you'll be looking for air bubbles.

 

[roofman]

Reading this whole thread about 4 times, my suggestion is go and find a Priest

 

[bricol]

Reading this whole thread about 4 times, my suggestion is go and find a Priest

I still think there is a mechanical issue somewhere - pedal to master, slave to lever, bearing, bearing contact with clutch.

Did anyone ever watch the crankshaft pulley on the other end of the engine when someone was pressing the pedal up and down?

 

[steveo3002]

right

clamped the slave all the way in , fitted a braided hose i had and bled it a few times on the pressure bleeder nipple highest , got it higher than the master with the flexi on it , pedal was hard

fitted the slave and **** it works sort of lol ....its a good 90% there , some slight reluctance to return the last 20mm on the pedal unless you so a sharp stab

thinking was that hose to blame > can air get in but no fluid leak out say at a join?

and ive pulled the rod from 2 of the older slaves i have and one is about 3mm longer than the other , might fit the longest one another day but i think i will leave it and enjoy for the summer now ,as long as its not gone limp in the morning, sick to death of the hassle

cheers all

 

[tom2207]

right

clamped the slave all the way in , fitted a braided hose i had and bled it a few times on the pressure bleeder nipple highest , got it higher than the master with the flexi on it , pedal was hard

fitted the slave and **** it works sort of lol ....its a good 90% there , some slight reluctance to return the last 20mm on the pedal unless you so a sharp stab

thinking was that hose to blame > can air get in but no fluid leak out say at a join?

and ive pulled the rod from 2 of the older slaves i have and one is about 3mm longer than the other , might fit the longest one another day but i think i will leave it and enjoy for the summer now ,as long as its not gone limp in the morning, sick to death of the hassle

cheers all

drive it for a week and then do the pedal pressure till it goes to the floor and lock off thing ,,,
it will probably be grand ... so what do you think actually made the difference the last time?

 

[steveo3002]

dunno im blaming the oem style hose , and it maybe helped the flexi allowed me to bleed the slave higher up , not really done anything different

 

[500e]

#45

 

[steveo3002]

#45

yep

i was using this hose 2 weeks ago before ordering new parts , couldnt make it work

 

[Turbo]

Don't know if it has been already suggested but its possible that the rubber hose has perished & when you push the pedal the fluid makes the hose balloon out instead of moving the slave cylinder.

 

[Keithmac]

There's one for sale on FB.