@Screwdriver Errr, what's that (other than a lot of work)?
That's all the gubbins.
Which now look a bit more like this:
I may move the switches not just because the current box is so ugly and bulky. It's not in a convenient location and it's already broken.
Seems daft to have the emergency stop right next to the regular stop (!) and when danger strikes, you want the emergency stop to be in a fixed known position. Currently it's on a movable arm so in the heat of battle, you might not be able to find it! Also there doesn't appear to be a coolant pump switch so if I need to mod the wiring to fit one, I might just as well remake the loom.
The switches it does have are really good quality industrial items. Just need cleaning.
I also straightened out and painted the limit switch bracket.
Then it's just lots of picking at gobs of nasty green everywhere...
Incidentally, I don't think the green disaster was made by the chap I got it off. I suspect he took one look at it and thought it best to move it on. It was always going to be a time killer.
Somewhat ironic under the circumstances...
Set up in the 4 jaw.
Knurling Delrin. Sounds like a great name for a film. "Flying Cowboys" starring Knurling Delrin
This was a right hack job: short stub of 1/4 20 thread with 6mm shank, pressed into a 5.5mm hole with threadlocker.
It only has to do this:
Colour scheme has a faint air of Harrison machinery... perhaps you could make up a cheeky decal for the base
I was wondering how to sticker it up. I was going to try a Germanic sort of name but Harrison sounds good. One thing's for sure, it's not getting a Clarke badge!
Interestingly there are a million different badges on incarnations of this machine: Jet, Axminster, Wilton, Grizzly, SIP, etc. All versions are slightly different but all built around the same castings and metalwork.
It is a classic colour scheme. Look what I just found:
...and it looks like I missed a trick with Starrett!
Missing the Ronald McDonald face on that Starrett one Mustard and ketchup anyone?
1/4 -20 is the standard thread on camera equipment.
You might find something in that line?
R E V I R D W E R C S
You missed my earlier post?
I have made a fair few camera brackets so I have the taps and dies. These knob bolts have to be the single most pleasing part of this build so far. I think they look great and they work perfectly.
My bling bearings turned up.
Fitting was a lot easier than I had thought. Pressed them on carefully in a vice with a small bit of tube to press on the inner race.
I turned the eccentric adjuster until both bearings just touch the blade. Lined up square and offset by eye. I can hardly believe it myself but when I set up to measure the blade orientation, it was bang on!
I was slightly disappointed as I had been looking forwards to adjusting these to perfection.
What's wrong with this picture?
There is no need for this picture.
Another gratuitous shot.
Now of course I need to quickly come up with a solution for the electronics box. I'm thinking remote location for the mag switch and extend the switch wiring to the original location. Whatever I do, I probably should just get on with it!
How about DIRESTA. I really ought to have made a video for this restoration though currently, can't seem to get around to it.
Everyone tells me I ought to do resto vids since I’m always buying old stuff and making it work again, but to tell the truth it’s more hassle than I find enjoyable. I don’t work constantly (rarely more than an hour or two a day as it’s a hobby) so any video would just be a time lapse with narration. Couple to this the jobs which have err... lasted over a year... or maybe two years... and still aren’t anywhere near being done! Then you get the interview experts on YouTube. No thanks.
Since everything except the coolant is done, I thought I'd fix the old switch box as a temporary measure. Just get the thing going for now.
I made a hot staple gun some time ago for bike fairings. Works well on virtually all (thermo)plastics.
Main box lid was effectively snapped in half...
Any odd bits were glued on with industrial rubberised superglue.
The second door in the forge is there specifically for long lengths. First cut was super slow but no issues. Second cut I upped the speed and lowered the damper to let it drop faster. It virtually fell through the black iron pipe as if I'd hit it with an axe! Clearly need some practice in getting the cutting rates right.
It's bound to pop up in a video some time or other but I don't think anyone really needs to see it do they? It is surprisingly smooth and quite though.
hot staple gun?
more info please.
That type of switch is cheap enough to buy. Think I paid about 5 quid off the bay
OK will do. In another thread.
I have some on order. I could have paid £12-£15 from RS but when they are £2.50 from China, I can wait. I need one for the coolant pump too because I don't want it running all the time and this version doesn't have a switch, it's permanently live. Looks like there's a hole where the switch usually lives, I'll plumb it in later.
Now the clunky old switchbox is on and working I might be able to live with it after all but I can always retrofit.
Black iron pipe is as easy as it gets to cut but it was super quick and very accurate. Better than my hacksaw anyway.
I might try the other blade which looks like about 3tpi on some of that Delrin "cake" section. I am sick to death of cutting that by hand! Once it's cut it needs turning into rounds but with the bandsaw, I should be able to easily cut nice rectangles too.
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