Clarke 7 inch Metal Bandsaw

  1. angellonewolf

    angellonewolf Member

    Messages:
    5,397
    Location:
    bristol england
    defo not a painter but only times ive had crazing in paint only thing i could do is remove all the paint and then filler and paint again
     
  2. Screwdriver

    Screwdriver Member

    Messages:
    6,476
    UK London
    Well I am going to sleep on it. I may try a primer coat or it may be the paint stripper is still a bit active where it didnt take off the paint. I dont want to spend too much time fussing so I may have to capitulate and buy some other paint.

    I was feel g a bit "off" earlier, so retired to the house to read up on the effects of xylene. Hmm. Headache, tiredness, confusion. Yeah sounds about right.... :ashamed:
     
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  3. Screwdriver

    Screwdriver Member

    Messages:
    6,476
    UK London
    Here's the damage.

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    Big flecks of skin, reaction with remaining paint. So I went over it again with a wire wheel. As for the paint flecks, I have a bag of these hand made filters.

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    I got them from a shed clearance, I'm guessing they are for some old thing like a Morris Minor or old Landrover or somesuch. Anyway one of them ended up here:

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    Nasty looking syrup it is too.

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    I need to be a lot more careful around this stuff. The vapour is seriously bad for your health. Yep. I did it again! Both doors open, trying not to inhale, short period only, I still ended up with a headache and a feeling of nausea. Got the paint filtered though :thumbup:

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    The painting itself was another disaster pics to follow). It goes on way too thick and being xylene (like proper old school Hammerite ??) I can't thin it (unless I can use Toluene or regular Acetone). The plan is to roller it on. If I can get it on thick without it running, it gives a superb glossy hard finish and it dries rock hard overnight.
     
  4. Screwdriver

    Screwdriver Member

    Messages:
    6,476
    UK London
    OK. Plan B.

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    I'll be damned, it worked!

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    I was so pleased with the result I got a bit carried away and flooded the base using a brush. Kinda wish I'd kept going with the roller but it's sort of ok.

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    All roller on the bed except for a bit of cutting in.

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    The roller gives it a nice industrial look.

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    Should be dry virtually as soon as I finish typing this. That's half the problem with this goopy paint, once you brush it on it skins up immediately. I never usually feel good about throwing stuff out but I was using disposable rollers and they go straight in the bin. No clean up required. :thumbup:
     
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  5. KemppiFrog Member

    Messages:
    3,317
    Location:
    Aquitaine
    The krinkle finish!!! Some of yous guys are just too worried about looks. Just get it working and earning! Most of my kit looks like ++++ but works fine and if I want to look at nice, I go inside and chat to the wife..
     
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  6. Screwdriver

    Screwdriver Member

    Messages:
    6,476
    UK London
    Now a couple of the bigger parts are done, I can start fiddling with the fiddly bits.

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    Quite easy to do, still very satisfying.

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    The paint was dry enough to bolt these two together and give me a bit more room to play with.

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    Next...

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  7. Screwdriver

    Screwdriver Member

    Messages:
    6,476
    UK London
    It had to be done and if I am going to do it at all, might as well do it properly. While this is a new toy for the workshop, my day job is restoring stuff like this to sell. I'm not going to have lumpy paint with it peeling over the remnants. I also have a few more cans of this stuff to use so I need to know how best to apply it. Bizarrely, I actually enjoy doing this too...
     
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  8. Screwdriver

    Screwdriver Member

    Messages:
    6,476
    UK London
    I spent virtually all morning getting paint off of these. Wire wheel, cup wheel, pneumatic needle gun, blade brush and even acetone.

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    Then I spent seconds virtually ruining it.

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    They look a LOT better than they have any right to. I ran out of paint so instead of rollering, went back to brushing. This stuff dries so quickly, by the time I had one coat on the last one, I could pick up and second coat the first. But you have to move really quickly, a trained monkey could have done a better job but it dries pretty flat and with very few drips.

    The rest of today was spent reversing the opening on the base unit which I discover had been fitted backwards. The opening for the coolant bucket should be at the rear of the machine. Since I had painted on the nuts, it was a bit tricky plus I had to paint the previously hidden parts of the base. All good now though.

    I need another paint for the blade carrier. I'm not using that Cromadex again yet because it's gone off and would need filtering. I don't have a suitable container to filter it into. The jamjars don't really work and it develops more skin overnight on the sides. It is also a right pain in the **** to apply it!

    For those that care: what colour do we think? Red? :o
     
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  9. Screwdriver

    Screwdriver Member

    Messages:
    6,476
    UK London
    Next item...

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    I particularly wanted to remove the gearbox (not just because it will look GREAT in any other colour) so I can easily clean it and refill with oil.

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    Quite easy to do.

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    And wel worth it because - damn!

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    Stinky and useless café creme. Nice and clean now.

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    I also de-stickered the whole casting because the stickers were already horrible and painting around them looks even worse. I then prised off the maker plate by carefully removing the twist pins.

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    They are a conceit! The "plate" is of course another sticker. :mad:

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    We'll have to see about that!
     
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  10. Screwdriver

    Screwdriver Member

    Messages:
    6,476
    UK London
    Oh yeah, the base unit has been remade the right way round with the coolant opening at the rear.

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    The odd bits actually look ok, just need the spills rubbed off once the paint has cured fully.
     
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  11. 500e

    500e Always buy fire insurance a flood is hard to start

    Messages:
    4,791
    Location:
    SWest UK
    @julianf is the man for quality escutcheons :thumbup:
     
  12. Screwdriver

    Screwdriver Member

    Messages:
    6,476
    UK London
    Saw arm casting really needed tidying up.

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    Especially the guide runners which need to be perfectly smooth.

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    They had been rusted in place.

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    Wire wheel took off most of the rubbish, quick rub down with acetone.

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    I had a couple of spray cans in red so...

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    ...and because this previously grey arm fits onto that casting:

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    Rear blade cover was badly rusted (the hinges were solid).

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    Looks like its a sparkly metallic version!

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    Did the gearbox with a regular tin of hammerite (yeah I know, probably did that the wrong way round).

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    This thing might end up looking like a tarts handbag.

    <proud>

    :D
     
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  13. slim_boy_fat

    slim_boy_fat Forum Supporter

    Store the jars inverted, that way the skin forms the same but when you turn the jar back to re-use, it's at the bottom.....;)

    Fuzz Townsend from Car SOS had a good way of avoid over-painting on components. Use 3M blue low-tack masking tape round the edges and tap gently round with a hammer. Peel the excess off and you're left with a nice 'hard' edge. after painting. :thumbup: Saves having to scrape the excess off.
     
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  14. Screwdriver

    Screwdriver Member

    Messages:
    6,476
    UK London
    Inverting the jars doesn't work with this paint/those jars.

    I put on the masking tape then run a small file over the edge. Gives me a super clean edge every time. With the very large areas, I don't bother because it's a lot easier just to rub the fresh paint off.

    I did the blade guides and tension mount for example.

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  15. Screwdriver

    Screwdriver Member

    Messages:
    6,476
    UK London
    It's taking shape though progress is going to slow down a fair bit once the major parts are installed. Then it's going to be fiddly little bits all the way.

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    Some weirdness has already popped up. The casting has some locating studs where the gearbox fits.

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    The gearbox doesn't!

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    I have sifted through a zillion photos and I can't see one that shows whether or not the gearbox is canted over at an angle. I can see some marks on the base where they were pressing on the bottom of the gearbox but the paint fill watever gap there may have been. :dontknow:

    They're not on all of the parts diagrams and drawings I have amassed, nor does there appear to be a plate or spacer. Turns out they are basically grub screws so I just took them out...
     
  16. Ton-up

    Ton-up Member

    Messages:
    1,607
    Location:
    Essex, England.
    Yeah, they are for jacking the gearbox up, lining the blade wheel up. Mine-

    IMAG0489[1].jpg
     
  17. Screwdriver

    Screwdriver Member

    Messages:
    6,476
    UK London
    I wondered if it might be an adjustment but

    1. It looks like a really naff way to do it!
    2. The plane of adjustment is parallel to the axis of the drive shaft

    The gearbox would hinge exactly in line with wherever the driven wheel ends up. The bolts which fasten the gearbox are also covered up by the drive wheel when it's in place. I think if it ends up out of line, I may have to come up with a more useable solution. Thanks for the info though. Have you ever had to adjust yours?
     
  18. Ton-up

    Ton-up Member

    Messages:
    1,607
    Location:
    Essex, England.
    No, ran spot on from new. We've had it about 8 years, never touched it.
     
  19. Screwdriver

    Screwdriver Member

    Messages:
    6,476
    UK London
    Thanks for that. I put them back in. My mistake, the spindle is at 90 degrees to the adjustment so they do do a job and it looked "off" without them.

    Meantime I made up a simple bracket to keep the arm vertical.

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    it didn't have one but the chassis did have some handy holes...

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    I haven't put an adjuster there because as luck would have it, the arm is bang on dead vert.

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    Easy to forget how cruddy and nasty this machine once was.

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    Cleaned up and fitted, I resisted the temptation to balance them, one is way, way off but they run dead true and the bearings look good.

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    Lots of cleaning, fettling and scraping off that horrible turquoise/green which got everywhere. I put a spring in the mechanism (as seen in the pic above) just because I can.

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    I should have called this thread "Pimp my bandsaw"... :D

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    Anyhow, tomorrows little job; sort out the sliding tray and matt black the motor.

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    Hmm. Red and black. Gotta love it...
     
    Ton-up likes this.
  20. roofman

    roofman Purveyor of fine English buckets and mops

    Messages:
    7,522
    Location:
    North West
    Looking at the castings and hefty gussets ime reminded how Clarke stuff used to be decent home machinery once:thumbup:
     
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