Myles1970
Member
- Messages
- 927
- Location
- Monaghan, Ireland
....I like how you formed the recesses for the bung holes
- Thread starter Myles1970
- Start date
Myles1970
Member
- Messages
- 927
- Location
- Monaghan, Ireland
My first attempt at a wheel well. A tad ambitious maybe, but I reckon I can use most of it.
I might end up cutting it into sections as it's quite unwieldy as it is.
There's a couple of tabs on the underside of the existing well that I suspect are for hanging the exhaust, and they make it difficult to offer the piece up, so I think I'll have them off before I go any further
I might end up cutting it into sections as it's quite unwieldy as it is.
There's a couple of tabs on the underside of the existing well that I suspect are for hanging the exhaust, and they make it difficult to offer the piece up, so I think I'll have them off before I go any further
Might be of interest to you https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/467464934357035/?ref=facebook_story_share
Myles1970
Member
- Messages
- 927
- Location
- Monaghan, Ireland
@Cosantoir , it might smother the sound of the itbs though...
Myles1970
Member
- Messages
- 927
- Location
- Monaghan, Ireland
Ah man, this is testing my perseverance if nothing else 
....I knew it was a bit ambitious, and it's hard work & all the relief cuts are quite daunting...
Although the gaps don't look too bad in the pics, close-up they're 2-3mm; doable but time consuming...
...and below you can see at least one other restorers seam, stitch welds all over...
I know it's a wheel well at the end of the day and it'll not be on public view, but ....
.... again, given the choice I'd rather restore a "virgin" rotter than a car that's been restored 2-3 times already...
....I knew it was a bit ambitious, and it's hard work & all the relief cuts are quite daunting...Although the gaps don't look too bad in the pics, close-up they're 2-3mm; doable but time consuming...
...and below you can see at least one other restorers seam, stitch welds all over...
I know it's a wheel well at the end of the day and it'll not be on public view, but ....
.... again, given the choice I'd rather restore a "virgin" rotter than a car that's been restored 2-3 times already...
Myles1970
Member
- Messages
- 927
- Location
- Monaghan, Ireland
...followed by a polystrip disk.... tho the polydisk on it's own probably would have done as good a job
Myles1970
Member
- Messages
- 927
- Location
- Monaghan, Ireland
Possibly, but I found it was hit and miss, as in it would only work in random areas & had little or no affect in other similar areas...I think you'd be quicker removing it mechanically by blasting or wire-wheel
Myles1970
Member
- Messages
- 927
- Location
- Monaghan, Ireland
Really? sounds like a good job
Myles1970
Member
- Messages
- 927
- Location
- Monaghan, Ireland
Maybe, or stick a question on the metal paint/coatings board, someone else may know better
Myles1970
Member
- Messages
- 927
- Location
- Monaghan, Ireland
.....I've had enough of that (for now), no more pinholes anyway, just a bit of grinding to do...
This ^ is the leading end of the driver side sill... A previous "bunch of grapes" type mig-weld repair that failed to stave off the corrosion... so I got the air saw to work:
^ front, and v back
I've actually cut deep into the panel, and it's just the bottom (horizontal) that's rusty, so I've cut off the corrosion and formed a repair patch
.... unfortunately, as you can see from above I'm out of shielding gas
. I know that there's a minor leak because the gauges slowly depressurise after I close the tap (over the course of a few hours). However I suspect that now I'm nearing the end of the bottle, the leak is allowing air into the mix causing horribleness into the welds (the last three tacks on the right.Also, I'm finding it very difficult to set the welder to achieve penetration without blowing through.....
Ha look like this could have been my handy work :P Actually looks like the build up when you blow through and keep building up material to fix it without just stopping and putting in a replacement piece of material.
Last weekend repairing the exact same spot on my car it was a pretty long process to be fair when trying to let it all cool and not blow holes.
I had decent success with upping the wire speed and dropping the power but someone else had said to me they had good results in these cases by upping the power and dropping the wire speed right down. Someone else said to make sure that your ground was above the weld seemed odd but that was also in relation to overhead welds so I donno if it applies here.
There was 1 section about 3-4 cm on a corner that just wanted to blow through constantly and I managed to get it by dropping the power right down to get some tacks maybe 5-8mm apart that just linked the two pieces together I knew they wouldn't have decent penetration but once they were done I was able to go back to the normal power and start doing fresh tacks but starting on the edge of those low pen tacks and that let me get started. I guess the heat was going into the tack more than the material so it wasn't blowing through as much.
)
