- Thread starter qwakers
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roofman
Purveyor of fine English buckets and mops
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its just my 1st cousin is and i have judged by him all my life...every day is a lesson
Still no excuse to have your shop like that 
is it the same place that i came to?
qwakers
Member
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- 2,574
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- cornwall, united kingdom
No you came to my engine tuners place in wincham. I'm down in Cornwallits just my 1st cousin is and i have judged by him all my life...every day is a lesson
dobbslc
Forum Supporter
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- Hertfordshire UK
fan
fantastic work but you need to take a step back and TIDY YOUR SHOP
If he steps back he'll fall over something and break his bloomin neck!
MattF
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You've never seen my flat either, have you.
That scenario could easily occur with me, in there. As one of my neighbours says: You're trying to fit a gallon into a pint pot.
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- Birmingham
Today I fixed up a few (more) solar lights at the stables
I told Mrs Robo she has so many lights now that German bombers may mistake the stables for Birmingham
I told Mrs Robo she has so many lights now that German bombers may mistake the stables for Birmingham
Today I fixed the lack of storage for my chinese inflatable paint booth. They come with cloth bags, and that's a recipe for having mice eat holes in them longer term but I'm too much of a cheapskate to shell out hundreds on a dedicated large plastic storage box. But if you squint a ibc is a fantastic storage container to put big things in and keep rodents out, and I got a free one for helping someone with some machining...
First cut a square out on 3 sides, and cut only the middle rib on the 4th to create a "living hinge" as the 3d printer and laser cutter folk call them. Ie a flexy bit that bends without breaking each time you hinge it & then test fit how much related crap I can fit in too. It swallowed the tent, the two fans and the box of filters for the extra filtration I added. The main window filters would fit nicely too but theyre off being washed.
Then you need something to make a lip so the flexi bit doesnt flop straight past. When you have old pallets about, every job looks like it needs discarded broken pallet wood & some m8's in a old linbin.
And finally so I dont forget where on the pallet racks it lives, I even wrote what it was inside on all 4 sides. How efficient is that?
First cut a square out on 3 sides, and cut only the middle rib on the 4th to create a "living hinge" as the 3d printer and laser cutter folk call them. Ie a flexy bit that bends without breaking each time you hinge it & then test fit how much related crap I can fit in too. It swallowed the tent, the two fans and the box of filters for the extra filtration I added. The main window filters would fit nicely too but theyre off being washed.
Then you need something to make a lip so the flexi bit doesnt flop straight past. When you have old pallets about, every job looks like it needs discarded broken pallet wood & some m8's in a old linbin.
And finally so I dont forget where on the pallet racks it lives, I even wrote what it was inside on all 4 sides. How efficient is that?
Blue Chips
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- Maine, USA
Continuing work on my New Holland GT18 garden tractor (basically the same as a Toro 518xi). On these tractors, the plastic fuel tank (HDPE, I assume?) is secured at its top and sides by several irregularly-shaped pieces of foam rubber sandwiched between the tank and the rear fender. The old foam rubber had deteriorated to what was essentially powder, which allowed the tank to flop around, and it's probably not in any better shape on my 522xi, which is the same vintage (2001).
I haven't (yet) found any available OEM or specific aftermarket replacements for the foam pieces, but if anyone knows of any, let me know. In the meantime, I'm going to experiment a bit and try fabricating the replacements.
I didn't know how thick the original foam was, since there wasn't any intact foam to measure, so I thought I would start by determining what the space is between the fender and the tank. To measure the space, I stuck little mounds of modelling clay at several locations on the tank, placed a little piece of polyethylene over each one to keep it from sticking to the fender, laid the fender in place with the mounting holes aligned with the corresponding captive nuts in the frame, and pushed straight down on the fender until it contacted the frame. When I lifted off the fender, the height of each mound of clay was mashed down to match the space. All of the mounds measured 9/16" or very close to it.
The foam rubber will need to be a little thicker than 9/16 inch, so that it compresses just enough against the tank to hold it securely without stressing anything. I'm starting with a semi-educated guess as to what thickness and compressibility would work best, based on a combination of intuition, logic, and black magic. I might have to try a few different foam rubber combinations before I find one that works to my satisfaction. At least I know what shapes the foam pieces will need to be, as I could still see the outlines of the adhesive backing before I cleaned it off.
For my first experiment, I just ordered some 3/4" foam rubber made of a blend of Buna-N, neoprene, and vinyl. It's listed as having good oil resistance, and it's considered ultra soft (rated at 4 psi/28 kPa to compress it 25%). This is a closed-cell foam, but the original foam 'might' have been open cell (I think there are pros and cons to each). I will need to be careful to place the foam pieces like the original pieces to allow drainage and not trap water. The foam should arrive in a day or two, and I'll post an update on how it goes.
I haven't (yet) found any available OEM or specific aftermarket replacements for the foam pieces, but if anyone knows of any, let me know. In the meantime, I'm going to experiment a bit and try fabricating the replacements.
I didn't know how thick the original foam was, since there wasn't any intact foam to measure, so I thought I would start by determining what the space is between the fender and the tank. To measure the space, I stuck little mounds of modelling clay at several locations on the tank, placed a little piece of polyethylene over each one to keep it from sticking to the fender, laid the fender in place with the mounting holes aligned with the corresponding captive nuts in the frame, and pushed straight down on the fender until it contacted the frame. When I lifted off the fender, the height of each mound of clay was mashed down to match the space. All of the mounds measured 9/16" or very close to it.
The foam rubber will need to be a little thicker than 9/16 inch, so that it compresses just enough against the tank to hold it securely without stressing anything. I'm starting with a semi-educated guess as to what thickness and compressibility would work best, based on a combination of intuition, logic, and black magic. I might have to try a few different foam rubber combinations before I find one that works to my satisfaction. At least I know what shapes the foam pieces will need to be, as I could still see the outlines of the adhesive backing before I cleaned it off.
For my first experiment, I just ordered some 3/4" foam rubber made of a blend of Buna-N, neoprene, and vinyl. It's listed as having good oil resistance, and it's considered ultra soft (rated at 4 psi/28 kPa to compress it 25%). This is a closed-cell foam, but the original foam 'might' have been open cell (I think there are pros and cons to each). I will need to be careful to place the foam pieces like the original pieces to allow drainage and not trap water. The foam should arrive in a day or two, and I'll post an update on how it goes.
Farside
Badly Welded Man
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- 6,283
- Location
- Ireland
What about practice hockey pucks? I bought some recently by mistake, thinking they were more solid.
They turned out to be dense foam, but probably useful for some things.
Thats nothing, I have been trying to fit a milk tanker into Egg cup.You've never seen my flat either, have you.
As one of my neighbours says: You're trying to fit a gallon into a pint pot.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Going Away.
Still working my way through a LOT of lego donations.
This one will need a LOT at TLC.
How it arrived.
It was dusty, but it has suffered a lot of UV damage.
A few special bricks allowed to to find out kit name, year and all the rest.
We cleaned it sorted it.
The build instructions were found.
The lower hull is made.
The cannonades do fire lego bricks. They are cannonades, due to the caliber and barrel length.
The stern castle is well on the way to being built. There is lots of fine details. but the new lego bricks, their grip to each other is very weak, compared to the old school bricks.
Meaning, it will fall to bits as you build it.
As we stripped it down to clean, the parts were assembles in a different way as to how we got it.
The UV damage is clear here.
Lego man, with mug.
Lego Mug.
New medium mug for scale.
Thee Lego Movie.
Captain Metal beard's ship.
The Sea cow.
This one will need a LOT at TLC.
How it arrived.
It was dusty, but it has suffered a lot of UV damage.
A few special bricks allowed to to find out kit name, year and all the rest.
We cleaned it sorted it.
The build instructions were found.
The lower hull is made.
The cannonades do fire lego bricks. They are cannonades, due to the caliber and barrel length.
The stern castle is well on the way to being built. There is lots of fine details. but the new lego bricks, their grip to each other is very weak, compared to the old school bricks.
Meaning, it will fall to bits as you build it.
As we stripped it down to clean, the parts were assembles in a different way as to how we got it.
The UV damage is clear here.
Lego man, with mug.
Lego Mug.
New medium mug for scale.
Thee Lego Movie.
Captain Metal beard's ship.
The Sea cow.
daleyd
Member
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- 10,484
- Location
- Wrexham, North Wales
You mean carronade? A cannonade is a burst of gunfire, a carronade is a type of cannon.
Got the Makita DA4031 working, turns out someone had **Language**ing the brush and shoved an extra spring in thus it wasn't touching and cross threaded the brush holder cap so I had to chisel it out in bits to test with a ball bearing pushing it down under the tape lol, new ones ordered.
Blue Chips
Forum Supporter
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- 742
- Location
- Maine, USA
I have some white rubber hockey pucks that I sometimes use to support things that I'm working on, but for the fuel tank the foam needs to be pretty soft, and the pads actually cover quite a bit of area. Here's a drawing showing the general shapes of the pads. A couple of the pads have tabs that wrap around the edges of the tank.
- Messages
- 23,546
- Location
- Birmingham
Yesterday I fixed the starter battery on the generator packed up so I did a temporary lash-up fix with a car battery as Mrs Robo is not strong enough to use the pull start, new battery ordered tonight.
As it was approaching 700 hours I did a cheeky oil change while I was there.
the starter battery on the generator packed up so I did a temporary As it was approaching 700 hours I did a cheeky oil change while I was there.
Leaktray in 1.5mm stainless, with a 100mm dia overflow tube.
Since I am an average welder at best, I didnt want to weld it in in one piece to avoid distortions.
I gave it a bit oversized shoulder on the lathe, so it would fit perfectly in the hole I lasercut earlier.
Had to shrink it with liquidnitrogen and it is in leakthigth, no need to weld it anymore.
Also gave it an internal chamber to fit the bottom half in.
Cooling that too.
And after I warmed the tray and the already mounted tube, it fits.
Happy wih myself
Since I am an average welder at best, I didnt want to weld it in in one piece to avoid distortions.
I gave it a bit oversized shoulder on the lathe, so it would fit perfectly in the hole I lasercut earlier.
Had to shrink it with liquidnitrogen and it is in leakthigth, no need to weld it anymore.
Also gave it an internal chamber to fit the bottom half in.
Cooling that too.
And after I warmed the tray and the already mounted tube, it fits.
Happy wih myself
