- Thread starter qwakers
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Memmeddu
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- Italia Sardegna
An engineer....
We are working on some drilling rig components
The Company has some very nasty human beings and honestly I'm still 50kg but I can't stand someone trying to offend me.
He essentially said me mother ecc ecc
But in his dialect so I couldn't understand, unfortunately I can...
Nothing special just said the same thing to him in my language and put him back in place.
We are working to satisfy their needs 50 hours week and we're already upset by them so it didn't take much to trigger me.
Best part of all that?
My Boss over there saying me good job for having put him back in place.
We are working on some drilling rig components
The Company has some very nasty human beings and honestly I'm still 50kg but I can't stand someone trying to offend me.
He essentially said me mother ecc ecc
But in his dialect so I couldn't understand, unfortunately I can...
Nothing special just said the same thing to him in my language and put him back in place.
We are working to satisfy their needs 50 hours week and we're already upset by them so it didn't take much to trigger me.
Best part of all that?
My Boss over there saying me good job for having put him back in place.
Got restarted on my landrover 90 rebuild at the end of last week, the big job left besides assembling it all is figuring out the interior bits of the lhd conversion as everything seems handed and is mirrored with a different part number. People normally just get a complete bulkhead with all the controls etc on it but I'm not down for paying 2-3 grand that people are asking so the hard way it is. Ive had this 90 for 20 years now so I'm kind of attached to it, its imported and registered here properly but just tired of the wheel being on the wrong side messing up visibility at junctions etc so while it was apart for a new chassis, seemed like a good time to do it.
First the bulkhead, marked and drilled and plated the footwell for the lhd pedal arrangement and moved all my originals over so they are in the same positions as a wrecked lhd bulkhead was, and cut out the oval steering column hole panel from it lined up to infill the original air duct for the cabin heater in mine, and cut a new air duct on the right hand side, as the cabin heater moves from the left to to the right wing as part of it. I'll weld the plate in next and swap the wiper spindles over to the lhd position then make a infil plate for that hole on the side of the transmission that I cut in 15 years ago to get access to something impossible in situ when it had a 19J motor in, then it can be stripped back and rustproofed and repainted, its in great shape though.
The next bit is the dash air duct/parcel shelf metal box that runs the width of the dash underneath. The cabin heater box lives in the engine bay side of the bulkhead & swaps sides for the lhd version because there's not space for it and the steering column to pass through on the same side. I was lucky enough to pick up a complete but leaking lhd cabin heater and swap my matrix into it, but the duct that distributes air to the interior that lives under the dash seemed to be impossible to find for sale, unless you are the sort to buy one from John Craddock at £3,178.52 inc. VAT : https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/fay500040pma-duct-heater.html
So it met the angry grinder after some marking out. I have to make a end plate and box back the cut end in to seal it up as that is where the column passes and extend the other end to mate up with the new square through hole in the bulkhead then weld the infil bits in and retrim it. Fortunately the mechanism inside wasn't in the cut area so it can be left alone.
I hung it on the bulkhead and everything lines up where it should and misses the column, so I'll make the closure bits and weld them in and hand it my mrs to retrim & save myself 3 grand...
Then when things were starting to be fun, the rebuild kit arrived for daughters 207 gearbox, so I switched to that.
The bad input shaft bearing was not missing any balls, just the cage has left the building and was nowhere to be found in the innards, so the seller definitely changed the box oil, overfilled it and sold it quick with this issue.
Also, once it was stripped, it was obvious someone had rebuilt it fairly recently from the excess of rtv. It seems they used a hammer to drive the bearings off the mainshaft too...
This is conical because it runs against a bearing in the case to maintain end float so three hairline cracks seem like a bad thing. So a quick scan of the free ad's for a replacement box and one with 175k on it was found for 90 quid and fairly local.
This was great, because although all the bearings were worn in it, it hadn't been rebuilt by ernest le bodger and his prized sledge hammer and was a good useable core to put my kit in.
Diff and shafts were left in the chest freezer overnight, and they pressed on in my little bearing press without much force at all.
And job done, new bearings & seals throughout with new clips etc. Its back in the engine bay tonight, just have to connect up the electrical connections I had to remove to get it out and it should be finally out of my workshop for good this time I hope.
Maybe finally I'll get back to welding stuff on the 90 next, and then start on the 101 chassis thats been on the rotisserie for a solid year waiting for the new outriggers to be welded in place!
First the bulkhead, marked and drilled and plated the footwell for the lhd pedal arrangement and moved all my originals over so they are in the same positions as a wrecked lhd bulkhead was, and cut out the oval steering column hole panel from it lined up to infill the original air duct for the cabin heater in mine, and cut a new air duct on the right hand side, as the cabin heater moves from the left to to the right wing as part of it. I'll weld the plate in next and swap the wiper spindles over to the lhd position then make a infil plate for that hole on the side of the transmission that I cut in 15 years ago to get access to something impossible in situ when it had a 19J motor in, then it can be stripped back and rustproofed and repainted, its in great shape though.
The next bit is the dash air duct/parcel shelf metal box that runs the width of the dash underneath. The cabin heater box lives in the engine bay side of the bulkhead & swaps sides for the lhd version because there's not space for it and the steering column to pass through on the same side. I was lucky enough to pick up a complete but leaking lhd cabin heater and swap my matrix into it, but the duct that distributes air to the interior that lives under the dash seemed to be impossible to find for sale, unless you are the sort to buy one from John Craddock at £3,178.52 inc. VAT : https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/fay500040pma-duct-heater.html
So it met the angry grinder after some marking out. I have to make a end plate and box back the cut end in to seal it up as that is where the column passes and extend the other end to mate up with the new square through hole in the bulkhead then weld the infil bits in and retrim it. Fortunately the mechanism inside wasn't in the cut area so it can be left alone.
I hung it on the bulkhead and everything lines up where it should and misses the column, so I'll make the closure bits and weld them in and hand it my mrs to retrim & save myself 3 grand...
Then when things were starting to be fun, the rebuild kit arrived for daughters 207 gearbox, so I switched to that.
The bad input shaft bearing was not missing any balls, just the cage has left the building and was nowhere to be found in the innards, so the seller definitely changed the box oil, overfilled it and sold it quick with this issue.
Also, once it was stripped, it was obvious someone had rebuilt it fairly recently from the excess of rtv. It seems they used a hammer to drive the bearings off the mainshaft too...
This is conical because it runs against a bearing in the case to maintain end float so three hairline cracks seem like a bad thing. So a quick scan of the free ad's for a replacement box and one with 175k on it was found for 90 quid and fairly local.
This was great, because although all the bearings were worn in it, it hadn't been rebuilt by ernest le bodger and his prized sledge hammer and was a good useable core to put my kit in.
Diff and shafts were left in the chest freezer overnight, and they pressed on in my little bearing press without much force at all.
And job done, new bearings & seals throughout with new clips etc. Its back in the engine bay tonight, just have to connect up the electrical connections I had to remove to get it out and it should be finally out of my workshop for good this time I hope.
Maybe finally I'll get back to welding stuff on the 90 next, and then start on the 101 chassis thats been on the rotisserie for a solid year waiting for the new outriggers to be welded in place!
mike 109444
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- 4,805
Wot the dog
BrokenBiker
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- 11,573
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- Newport, South Wales
My tig pedal...now granted its a cheap Chinese welder (hitbox) but could they not have figured out that running the pedal cable to the back of the pedal was a dull idea. Always end up with cable trailing everywhere, getting under the rollers of the chair etc...so today I finally got round to moving the cable entry to the front so now there's no more trailing cable and when I do move the pedal its just a quick pull on the cable thats been looped around the frame of the table and the slack is gone again
qwakers
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- 2,495
- Location
- cornwall, united kingdom
was taking a tyre off a lorry wheel on the 3rd... i leant down to grab a tyre leaver off the floor and got a large zap and the rcd tripped. having metered out everything to ground all the wiring is ok so it must be the motor. a quick poke of the motor confirmed this. i decided to uprate it a spot whilst i was at it and may have gone a bit overkill with 2hp....
works great though. no more stalling and having to rock it to get it to pull a bead off a big tyre, and it totally breezed the bike tyres.
now just need to tidy the workshop.....
oh and change the seals in the pistons, they're sitting on my desk..
works great though. no more stalling and having to rock it to get it to pull a bead off a big tyre, and it totally breezed the bike tyres.
now just need to tidy the workshop.....
oh and change the seals in the pistons, they're sitting on my desk..
. No more leaks and a nice satisfying job for once.
qwakers
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- 2,495
- Location
- cornwall, united kingdom
The screw fixing kits for this sink for the lids are more than i paid for the sink...
After a bit of lateral thinking, a bag of Chicago screws where ordered from China as that's the only place I could get them in exactly the right size, add to that a pack of plastic top hat bearings and a bag of plastic washers and we're away...
After a bit of lateral thinking, a bag of Chicago screws where ordered from China as that's the only place I could get them in exactly the right size, add to that a pack of plastic top hat bearings and a bag of plastic washers and we're away...
droopsnoot
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- 1,340
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- South Cheshire, UK
Hopefully, the oil leak on my daily driver Audi. When I replaced the coolant pipe a few months back, I had to disconnect the turbo oil return pipe, and when I put it back together I didn't use new sealing washers because I didn't read the bit in the manual that says I should. It's been leaking quite nastily recently, from that connection. It's a fiddle to get to, but I've managed it this afternoon. The other day at idle I could see oil seeping from it, and now I can't. I did a bit of a clean-up so I'll give it a day or two and then check that it's still relatively clean. I'd love to clean the whole engine bay properly, but I daren't.
After much checking, measuring for run-out on an old and not square roof..... I finally took the plunge (after repairing the framework quite a bit & laying membrane, battens etc)..... and did my first bit of roof slating.
I think the time spent fretting & faffing & double-checking was worth it though - starting from bottom right this afternoon - I've got the first 50-ish slates fitted..... & I think its gone OK - it seems to be square, even & flat - & doesn't look like I did the work (a good sign!).
I think the time spent fretting & faffing & double-checking was worth it though - starting from bottom right this afternoon - I've got the first 50-ish slates fitted..... & I think its gone OK - it seems to be square, even & flat - & doesn't look like I did the work (a good sign!).
Erie Fred
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- Erie, Pa USofA
My 40 hp Rotary Phase Converter.
I finally deduced it was the voltage sensing relay
that does the starting circuit.
Ordered a new one, different in that it's solid state, adjustable, and has a 1.5 second
shut off timer (in case it does not start, protects the starting caps).
No more pounding and sparking relays, just a nice pull in on the contactors, and a good start.
Here is the old Voltage relay
Start circuit relay (voltage sensing can't handle all the current on it's own so it feeds this coil)
Start caps
Balance caps (oil filled)
Mian connection
I finally deduced it was the voltage sensing relay
that does the starting circuit.
Ordered a new one, different in that it's solid state, adjustable, and has a 1.5 second
shut off timer (in case it does not start, protects the starting caps).
No more pounding and sparking relays, just a nice pull in on the contactors, and a good start.
40Hp
! That's a monster. I've never even heard of a 1ph to 3ph Phase Converter bigger than 15Hp.
Erie Fred
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- Erie, Pa USofA
Used to be rural area's were limited to 5hp motor (single phase) as the REC (Rural Electric Co-Op's) had a small infrastructure.40Hp
More and more farmers need heavier power (for crop dryers mainly) and now 800 amp
single phase service at a farm is common.
Rotary Converters - Smith Electric Motorworks
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gwm4-3phase.com
A bit more roof progress today. I'm knackered!
I realise it's not done "right" - I was trying to use up old stock slates (as new ones are slightly different colour & fractionally longer)..... I was hoping to do complete rows of each.
However I've messed that up by forgetting and doing diagonals up the roof too high - ho hum.
Whatever - its going to be loads better than rotten battens and a hole in it the size of a Volkswagen
I reckon I laid about 130 slates today, and about 180 total so far.
I realise it's not done "right" - I was trying to use up old stock slates (as new ones are slightly different colour & fractionally longer)..... I was hoping to do complete rows of each.
However I've messed that up by forgetting and doing diagonals up the roof too high - ho hum.
Whatever - its going to be loads better than rotten battens and a hole in it the size of a Volkswagen
I reckon I laid about 130 slates today, and about 180 total so far.
RWD3M
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Yep, what @Porkypine says, looks pretty good to me too!
