If I made that I’d want it left natural or maybe waxed,it’d enhance the appearance.I really like this, to me this looks like an original ancient piece.
How is this going to be rustprotected?
If I made that I’d want it left natural or maybe waxed,it’d enhance the appearance.I really like this, to me this looks like an original ancient piece.
How is this going to be rustprotected?
NIce job! Don't know if your interested, but a neighbour has a very similar fence to that (wood slats and concrete posts), and he painted the posts with the same cuprinol stuff that he did the slats in and it actually looks really good. To be honest, from 10 or 15 yards, you couldn't tell they weren't timber posts.View attachment 502752
It has taken me long enough but finally got the gate painted and installed. Just the matter of the electric opener to mount and wire up now.
Couldn’t bring myself to part with nearly 50quid for one of these so had a rummage in the scrap pile, dug out the welding set and made one.
Starting handle for a Lister D.
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£50 seems a bit excessive, they normally go for around £20 second hand on stationary engine forums, FB groups etc.
I picked up a Petter A1 handle for about £12 from one of the stalls at a show.
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Copper is good to.That's a good idea. Was going to do cardboard but that will work better. Or I've got some thin Ali sheet somewhere I can wrap around it.
The Lorch trolley is hard to beatI swapped my MIG set onto this Fronius trolley, much nicer than the old DIY one that I never could be bothered to replace. I just needed an upper tray to seperate the welder from cooler, so I can weld some locking points in to stop everything moving.
Plasma cut sides, stiffened with a rear rib, 3mm top tray, all bolted up perfectly. Satisfying when it's just taken a little bit of time to draw up and profile out.
The lorch trolley is nicer i thinkThe Lorch trolley is hard to beat
Very similar
NIce job! Don't know if your interested, but a neighbour has a very similar fence to that (wood slats and concrete posts), and he painted the posts with the same cuprinol stuff that he did the slats in and it actually looks really good. To be honest, from 10 or 15 yards, you couldn't tell they weren't timber posts.
It was probably one of the 5,000 prototypes he boasted off before he got it right.Dyson use plastic stubs to mount the wheels so they just snap, not long out of warranty and with £100 cost of a replacement head I drilled out the remains and machined some new brass axles to slot in, they need to go in from behind which required a full strip down of the brush head which was great fun…not.
Penny for scale
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The wheels run on bearings, checking for fit
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In position
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Wheels on
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The plastic is cracked so not sure how long the new brass ones will hold out for before the full thing disintegrates but time will tell. Utter plastic rubbish, a really bad design.
Welding then up next
If it's for the locking pins, it'll likely be two separate pins, so alignment isn't quite as critical.And then hope the pin still goes through or have you made the bushings oversize?
Or maybe line bore it after?
Bushings are the same size as the ones on the bucket which have about a millimeter of clearance in them so they've got plenty of slip.And then hope the pin still goes through or have you made the bushings oversize?
Or maybe line bore it after?
Better than the several feet of play in the back actor. Still it's a bloody handy bit of kit and maneuverable being a 2CX.If it's for the locking pins, it'll likely be two separate pins, so alignment isn't quite as critical.
Plus it's a JCB. There's probably already a couple mm of play anyway![]()