What's with the lightbulb? Looks like led?
- Thread starter qwakers
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Keeps it nice and light for the spiders as they carry tiny buckets of water in to tip over the wire . . or something
Stops the wire rusting,condensation from sudden temperature changes,left on from October to April.
badabec
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Is there enough heat from an LED? Would an incandescent be better?
Craig-SM
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Sorting through my power tools today to make room for new additions and remembered the circular saw that wasn't working when you pressed the trigger. Followed the video and it really was as simply as that to fix, a bit of scraping and it whirred back to life.
Nomad
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A major step forward today - I’m trying to fix a 90s Nissan that’s been parked up for at least 10 years.
I got it to run but it stalled below 1500 rpm. I found and bought an (expensive) new carb from a breakers and got the same result which convinced me the problem wasn’t the carb.
Another full day yesterday stripping carbs (it's already been done several times) and I found a blocked jet that isn't on the factory workshop manual - the drilling is so tiny I though it was a solid plug with a couple of much larger holes drilled in the sides …
I ended up using my tiniest micro drill (in reverse - no cutting needed) to scratch the sediment out of the jet. The car now ticks over ok
The same jet has the same "blocked with sediment" problem on both carbs.
Lots of very clever engineering has gone into the carbs (to improve emissions & mpg) and they're great when they're new... not so good in the real world after a few years
I got it to run but it stalled below 1500 rpm. I found and bought an (expensive) new carb from a breakers and got the same result which convinced me the problem wasn’t the carb.
Another full day yesterday stripping carbs (it's already been done several times) and I found a blocked jet that isn't on the factory workshop manual - the drilling is so tiny I though it was a solid plug with a couple of much larger holes drilled in the sides …
I ended up using my tiniest micro drill (in reverse - no cutting needed) to scratch the sediment out of the jet. The car now ticks over ok
The same jet has the same "blocked with sediment" problem on both carbs.
Lots of very clever engineering has gone into the carbs (to improve emissions & mpg) and they're great when they're new... not so good in the real world after a few years
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Those micro drills...are they branded, from a reputable manufacturer. All of the ones that I've seen in the same moulded dispenser, are a complete load of tosh. One lot I bought off eBay didn't have a single drill of the nominal size it was supposed to be. A couple of them came close. The smallest drills weren't even sharpened. They just had broken off ends!!
Nomad
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My micro drills are unbranded and came from Boyes (a cheap high street store - same idea as Wilkinsons was), I've not measured the diameters or the sharpness but they are ok for drilling tiny pilot holes or cleaning small bores.
I almost need a magnifying glass to see which end is the sharp end on the smaller sizes - no way I can see the tip with the naked eye but I'll try to examine them next time I have them out.
I almost need a magnifying glass to see which end is the sharp end on the smaller sizes - no way I can see the tip with the naked eye but I'll try to examine them next time I have them out.
Bullet2012
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impact driver had a toolbit jammed in it, managed to shear the bit by clamping in the vice and running the driver in reverse, then the remainder just dropped out.
nice simple fix for a change.
nice simple fix for a change.
It’s proven for over 20 years.
Blue Chips
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Sorry to hear that your mud was broken. I hope it will be OK.
(I take it you're replacing the muddy soil with something like road base material?)
Winter is waning, and we're getting ready to enter 'mud season' here in Maine. I'm trying to figure out a good gadget for quickly and completely cleaning the soles of my boots so that I won't have to take them off every time I go into the house.
Brad93
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Better off buying carbide pcb drills, they're throwaway money
Blobber
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The mud will be put to use elsewhereSorry to hear that your mud was broken. I hope it will be OK.
(I take it you're replacing the muddy soil with something like road base material?)
Winter is waning, and we're getting ready to enter 'mud season' here in Maine. I'm trying to figure out a good gadget for quickly and completely cleaning the soles of my boots so that I won't have to take them off every time I go into the house.
it stays wet in that spot about 4 months of the year, even with foot traffic and the dogs it's a mud bath! Membrane and 8 inches of crushed hardcore should make it a bit more usable 
How is the rainwater that falls on the hardcore on top of the membrane going to drain away?The mud will be put to use elsewhere
Blobber
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It probably wont but its not going to be an out of bounds muddy mess
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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A few weeks ago a member donate me some nice items.
The oil stones are a very fine grit, but caked with age old dirt.
Now the stone is removed, you can see the oil seeping out.
Boiling them up with washing soda had the oil removed.
A week in the "Meths." vapour tank had the oil from the wood removed.
The drills were cleaned up, inspected and de rusted.
Not all could be saved.
The oil stones are a very fine grit, but caked with age old dirt.
Now the stone is removed, you can see the oil seeping out.
Boiling them up with washing soda had the oil removed.
A week in the "Meths." vapour tank had the oil from the wood removed.
The drills were cleaned up, inspected and de rusted.
Not all could be saved.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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This was set of two I had, one red and one green.
But the green one glass broke, so that lantern was cleaned up, painted black and this red galss fitted to that.
As it was the better of the two.
So, it was dumbed into a bucket of Citric acid.
This was almost the death knoll for this lamp, but I had time, so we had a go.
It worked.
One stamp I found was GPO, so has I have no replacement Green glass. I converted it back to a GPO lantern.
I did post here about suitable paint, but on the trial peace it looked like glass that was painted. I will try again.
Fuel tight, new wick and a new cork gasket.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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This Brass and Cast Iron charcoal Silk iron came my way. They used to be very expensive, but now they are cheap, if yo can find one.
The newer ones have a plane heat oven.
Older ones have a design to increase the heating area.
You need to remove all the old charcoal residue, as it will not allow the citric aid to do the de-rusting.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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These stoves are vey useful, heating brews, heating de-rusting fluids, warming workshops etc.
This one I knew was rusty, but how bad I was yet to find out.
Dismantling opened up a can of worms.
Both screws were working loose, then both broke.
That debrie you see is the burner.
It got worse.
Oh yes, Sealy rust remover does not.
New parts arrived.
Oh yes, always check "free wicks", as looks can be deceiving.
Drill out the old screws and cleaned the holes up, 1/4 whit.
The filler cap died when cleaning it up, the rust was to bad.
The wick not feeding correctly, so I used a new one.
This is why you need to ensure a clean even feed.
