Its been bending 8mm c/p most of the day. Some adjustment needed on the limit switches, you still need to avoid the light guards even when its set with minimum gap between top and bottom tooling.
Didnt want to tempt fate by fidiling with it when there was work to be done.
Just short of a decent guilly at the moment. We've a shed load of stair treads to knock out next week
Im not sur how you alter the mute points on lightguards. On the smaller one at work, i reckon its done via the PLC in the box. Techci stuff.
On some of the olde promecams, iirc, it could be slightly altered with limit switches.
Changed so that the machine never drops beyond short stroke unless really necessary.
Theres a tapered sleeve that moves up and down as the bottom beam rises/falls activating two limits. Not sure if its this that needs altering to kill the light guards or not. Dale?...
Thats the fella. Forgive my inaccurate description! So presumably set the bottom beam to where it needs to be and move the mute switch activator to the correct position?
This is how i used to set a manual promecam, release the beam locking valve, back off the stroke adjusting wheel, loosen the mute switch actuator and move it down to the bottom of the bar,
with the press running, press the pedal and hold it down, then wind the beam up to the required mute gap, keep the pedal down then move the actuator up until the limit switches just activate, lock the beam, then set the final stroke with the stroke adjuster,
Then you should be able to work inside the guard, if the beam drops below mute, ie off the limit switches, then you will have to stand outside the guard to make it stroke to mute.
Paul/Hitch - is the mean rad set by the width of the bottom tooling? i.e 60mm wide V, giving a 30mm bend radius? Does top tooling affect this bend rad or is it always governed by the width of the bottom tool?
Top tool has the biggest influence on the bend rad, vee width will have an effect but material thickness is the variable, tooling is always something you have to experiment with get the best result.
As above.... if you use a 20mm rad tool, youll pretty much end up with a 20mm rad bend (inside) The lower tool, depends on the angle you want to bend too.
ie, you could do a 20mm rad bend to 30degs in a much smaller vee than you could use to do it at 90degs. Yoo smaller vee, and you will just damage the material or your tooling.
Never expect to bend a complete half circle, and end up with parallel sides, in one hit. It wont happen.
Me again
The fingers have a wedge type arrangement which is set by 2nr allen screws. They are then locked in place by two bigger screws.
Seem to have a problem in that one end of the plate that is being bent will be perfect, and the other end underbent. It's a real chew putting the plate back in the end to nip up one corner - especially with the big heavy stuff.
The wedges need to be set so i believe to align the tooling correctly. Is there a proper procedure for aligning the tooling? We havnt messed with it yet, but at the moment the wedges are all at different settings, presumably set by the last people who owned it. I expect shifting it around has knocked-out the setting if it was ever set right in the first place
May well have been upset moving it. The paper/shim stock not work that well for you?
The arrangment on yours sounds different to what i have seen in the past. All the ones i have seen have just the one locking screw on the wedge, which is usually driifted through. I have a copper bar for just such occurences.
Ive seen it done a few ways, a height gauge being one way, which i disagree with.
The way i have done it before, select the material about 2/3rds of the machine capacity, shear some strips the full length, bend up, adjust to suit untill you get a decent straight fold.
What you need to check though is the tooling is in good condition, and that it is that top and bottom are inline. Having an offset slightly one ended will result in badness.
Another one, is damage to the bottoms/backs of all the fingers. File off any damage.
Before you start, number all the fingers 1- 18 or whatever number you have, once set, they'll go back in the same place every time.