Trouble is @8ob has a better equipped workshop than most of the "general engineers" in Surrey. Trouble is he can't find most of it.I'm all for DIY, but I think I might be reaching for the Yellow Pages and "general engineers" - clamped on a locating bush on a decent sized mill and clock it round for each bolt - repeat for each hub - once set up, should be reasonably quick. Remove the remnants, drill out, helicoil, done.
Or days with a drill press, even a big 'un . . . and wasting time that could be spent better elsewhere.
I would love to see this . Either you drink very slowly or serve tea in 44 gallon drums …@8ob - is this preventing you coming west? If not and you can bring the hubs with you then we'll pop up to Roger's (half way between Guy's place and mine) and he'll have them out whilst we drink a cuppa
Pm me if you want me to do them for you. They are time consuming so you would need to prise open your wallet..I could use the new discs as a drilling jig if I spun up some drilling bushes, I can cut the broken bolts down with the gas axe. I have tried to mill off the top of the bolts but they are way to hard for any of the cutters I have here.
There are four of these hubs to do.
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GLWTS….cut off as low as you can arc weld above so you get loads of heat into that bolt
should be the same method for those types of bolts to remove them
You need special swear words or the bolts don’t listenOr just send them to Johnny bravo, by the time you've cursed and sworn at them you might as well have paid him
The trick with decent carbide is not to use it when what you are drilling can move or snag. Doesn’t matter how fast you spin it,if the bolt you a drilling out moves,your decent carbide,( or not decent carbide) gets put back into kit form instantly….The trick with decent carbide is to get it spinning so fast it doesn't have time too break.
Highly unlikely your insurance company would take the same stance of ,”the new holes do not have to be perfect” should your truck be inspected following a serious accident with loss of life…..Done loads of them, so many it makes me shudder just looking at the pics, what you have there actually looks real good.
You have enough shank left there to either weld an m8/10 nut onto and undo that way or use one of the tapered stud removal tools, 5/16-8mm is the size you need.
When they are real bad you have a bolt that the shank is so waisted, as you undo the head it shears off leaving a ****ty little stub, then its a tapered chisel to remove the bulk of the remains, die grinder to get the remains flat, then dot punch and drill away.
Think the bolts are std M8 8.8 Iirc tightening torque was 30nm ie nowt special
It sounds real bad but the new holes do not have to be perfect so long as the bolt tightens it will be just fine, ie the work would make an engineer cry but will hold just fine.
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Highly unlikely your insurance company would take the same stance of ,”the new holes do not have to be perfect”....
I was rather expecting Bob to get lost in Roger's scrap pile for a good few hours first then he'd be distracted by the workshop and eventually he'd get around to realising his tea was cold but before he'd get there Anoush would have cooked us all some delicious biscotti before a meal of roast lamb. Then he'd eventually remember to make a fresh cup of tea and finish that just as the last bolt was being drilled out.I would love to see this . Either you drink very slowly or serve tea in 44 gallon drums …
Ive done probably 10 or 12 of these hubs over the years. None were done in a cup of tea‘s time….
Being a quiet, innocent person, I had to look that up - definitely not to be confused with GLWS. Think I furthered my education.GLWTS….![]()
Highly unlikely your insurance company would take the same stance of ,”the new holes do not have to be perfect” should your truck be inspected following a serious accident with loss of life…..
We are not talking about a 1ton chav mobile here,we are talking 15 -20 ton plus….
Being a quiet, innocent person, I had to look that up - definitely not to be confused with GLWS. Think I furthered my education.
Granted, I am not that naïve. However, suggesting bodging a job involving truck brakes on a public forum probably isn’t a very bright idea , now is it? …I am sorry to tell you the heavy commercial world is far from a perfect place.
How the original discs are fitted the bolts are of little importance after a few years, I have seen many a truck with some of the bolts missing, or rotten so thin as to be useless.
From new the bolts hold a spring clip which retains two flat wedges, the wedges both locate the disc and dissipate the heat the brakes produce, they actually modded the wedges later on as to much heat was getting to the wheel bearings.
The only hgv discs that are easy to change are the scania ones.
That's the impression I gotTrouble is @8ob has a better equipped workshop than most of the "general engineers" in Surrey. Trouble is he can't find most of it.
Granted, I am not that naïve. However, suggesting bodging a job involving truck brakes on a public forum probably isn’t a very bright idea , now is it? …![]()